mike150 Posted December 4, 2005 Posted December 4, 2005 Afternoon, Half way throgh the build of my Sport 2000 and now a fully paid up member of the club, so thought I'd post and say Hi. Finshed the engine fit module last night and just looking ahead to the fun and games with the bodywork. I've done a search on here but there doesn't seem to be that many posts about fitting the rear wheel arches and tub. Has anyone got any top tips? I did notice that some have used plastic number plate bolts to fit the rear arches. Is this common practice / a good idea? Also, is it worth putting foam tape under all the bodywork contact patches with the chasis? Would welcome any 'wise words' from those that have been / seen / done it. Look forward to posting a bit more now I'm not a free-riding observer. Oh yeah, any owners in the vicinity of Sevenoaks? Cheers Mike Quote
Blatman Posted December 4, 2005 Posted December 4, 2005 Check Steppenwolffs site for a comprehensive set of tips and instructions for fitting the bodywork and arches. As for the plastic bolts for securing the rear arches, IMO it's a good idea as in an impact, the theory is the bolts are weaker than the body, so it's them that break, rather than steel bolts which may well pull through the tub in an impact. Or, IMO you could use steel bolts and plastic nuts. In an impact the nuts should shear easily off the metal bolts, hopefully saving the bodywork... Quote
KerryS Posted December 4, 2005 Posted December 4, 2005 Hi Mike and welcome Rear wheel arches to body - I used plastic number plate bolts on basis if one gets a knock, the arches come away without tearing holes out of the tub. A hint I piked up from here. But they do break regularly on their own so need to keep an eye on them. Oh! And fit them before putting body on the chassis. Body goes straight onto chassis, no foam bits. Spend ages getting it to look right before doing any actual attaching, especially the rear wheels in the arches. The measurement WF give you is a starting point. Though finishing the chassis feels as you are almost there - believe me - you're not! The body is teh bit you and others can see so spend loads of time getting is just so! Kerry Quote
KerryS Posted December 4, 2005 Posted December 4, 2005 Hello Kerry Hey mi'duck - as they say oop north ere Just been out for a 20 minute blat - lovely and sunny Kerry Quote
nikpro Posted December 4, 2005 Posted December 4, 2005 Although I didn't put any chasis foam on the contact areas i wish I had put a thin strip where it does; it stops any squeeks! Quote
woz Posted December 5, 2005 Posted December 5, 2005 I built my sport 2000 last winter ( a cracking car once you get it on the road or track ) one thing I found usefull was to fit the down pipe part of the exhaust, cut a hole in a pice of stiff card the right size for the exhaust hole, tape this in place to the chasis with the exhaust passing through the hole, remove exhaust leaving card in place, fit bodywork. Then you can mark out the exhaust hole from the inside using the card hole as a template. Just note that the exhaust is angled slightley rearwards where it exits the car See white card on picture Quote
mike150 Posted December 8, 2005 Author Posted December 8, 2005 Thanks guys for all the comments and tips. Will check out Steppenwolfs site. Cheers Mike Quote
steppenwolf Posted December 8, 2005 Posted December 8, 2005 Mike, This is the page on my website:- General Body Fitting Tips Quote
Steve R Posted December 8, 2005 Posted December 8, 2005 I've just fitted my rear arches. I originally used plastic numberplate bolts and nuts, but I couldn't get very good clamping force without the things shearing. They would also just shear for no apparent reason weeks after fitting (body expanding & contracting slightly in heat/cold cycles?). I eventually ended up using stainless button head bolts with a large penny washer on the tub side and no washer on the arch side. The thinking was that the clamping force was much better and under an impact the arch would break away rather than damaging the tub as the washer would spread the load on that side. Ok, so the arch would be damaged, but chances are it would already have some damage from the impact. Just a suggestion... Steve. Quote
Gromit Posted December 8, 2005 Posted December 8, 2005 I eventually ended up using stainless button head bolts with a large penny washer on the tub side and no washer on the arch side. The thinking was that the clamping force was much better and under an impact the arch would break away rather than damaging the tub as the washer would spread the load on that side. Ok, so the arch would be damaged, but chances are it would already have some damage from the impact. Seems resonable. Quote
adamnreeves Posted December 8, 2005 Posted December 8, 2005 I've just fitted my rear arches. I originally used plastic numberplate bolts and nuts, but I couldn't get very good clamping force without the things shearing. They would also just shear for no apparent reason weeks after fitting (body expanding & contracting slightly in heat/cold cycles?). I eventually ended up using stainless button head bolts with a large penny washer on the tub side and no washer on the arch side. The thinking was that the clamping force was much better and under an impact the arch would break away rather than damaging the tub as the washer would spread the load on that side. Ok, so the arch would be damaged, but chances are it would already have some damage from the impact. Just a suggestion... Steve. I think this sounds a better idea than plastic bolts and washers anyway and when I get to this stage I will do what you have done. Quote
mike150 Posted December 8, 2005 Author Posted December 8, 2005 Sounds like a good idea to me. Thanks Quote
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