Starting with Alu panels

[NickV]

Just got my starter kit ...simple question really. Instructions say to clamp panels, drill chassis, remove panels & de burr, then refit with sealant and rivet. Why shouldn't I clamp panel with sealant applied, drill and rivet one hole at a time?

Have i missed something obvious??

[stu999]

Because you cannot de-burr the holes.

The 'burring' usually happens on the other isde of the aluminium, i.e. the side that affixes to the chassis. If the holes are not de-burred, the rivets will not clamp up properly, and will loosen over time.

HTH Stu  

[adamnreeves]

First of welcome to the world of Westfields. I began my build in the last month and have attached all my panels now. Stu is correct but I like to add some addtional advice, it may or not be obvious but make sure the panels are well clamped with G-clamps and blocks of wood, do not use the quick clamps they do not exert enough force. You definitely do not want any panel movement whilst you are drilling all those holes. I actually inserted a rivet in each hole after I drilled each one, thus reducing the risk of hole mis-alignment.

Do not rivet the top transmission panels until much later in the build, i.e. after gearbox installation. I am planning on using self tapers or rivnuts here for easy access later on.

Good luck with the build.

[KerryS]

Or use these Cleko

Excellent but means drilling 3mm hole for these then opening out to 4mm later, but hold panel in place really well

Kerry

[adamnreeves]

Or use these Cleko

Excellent but means drilling 3mm hole for these then opening out to 4mm later, but hold panel in place really well

Kerry

Hey nice tip. I saw these when I was checking out their website the other evening. Especially good idea when installing the optional exterior side panels as you cannot clamp on the bottom of the panel because the floor panels are already installed. I used loads of parcel tape on the bottom edge and maybe more luck than judgment? but all holes were in alignment.

[NickV]

Thanks, I thought it must be obvious!!

My alu panels are pre drilled, so i thought the only burring would be on the inside of the chassis tube section, which i can't do anything about......

Ho hum, drill, remove, deburr etc....here I come..

[ACW]

Or use these Cleko

Excellent but means drilling 3mm hole for these then opening out to 4mm later, but hold panel in place really well

Kerry

or find a fabricators supplier that does the 5/32" clecos as these will work for 4-4.5mm holes.

Chassis holes will burr on both sides. Also my advise is to drill, and cleco in place as you go. Then remove the panel, de burr the holes with a 8mm drill. Clean all the metal flakes away and solvent clean the chassis and fit the new panel. This way it avoids rusty sealant where the metail filings start to rust.

[longshanks]

Hi Nick,

One bit of advice I'd give is to drill but not fix all the tunnel panels and the side panels at the moment.  Don't put the tunnel sides on until you've installed the fuel & brake lines - this gives you much more access for what is a fiddly job at the best of times.  Leaving the exterior side panels off will give you loads more access to fit the seats.

Graham

[adamnreeves]

Hi Nick,

One bit of advice I'd give is to drill but not fix all the tunnel panels and the side panels at the moment.  Don't put the tunnel sides on until you've installed the fuel & brake lines - this gives you much more access for what is a fiddly job at the best of times.  Leaving the exterior side panels off will give you loads more access to fit the seats.

Graham

The brake lines according to the manual should be installed under the floor panels but you don't want do, so as inferred by Graham install in the transmission tunnel, this means safer, i.e. no risk of damage from grounding or objects. Likewise for Fuel lines but you need to take into account the wireloom position and handbrake cables.

I have installed all my panels, couldn't wait. Chicken or the Egg! But you definitely do not want to install the top transmission panels.

[kipford]

Car Builders Solutions sell 5/32" Cleko's, but it would be worth shopping around to see if you can get them cheaper (Buck and Hickman may be able to help) or visit your local airfield and ask the fitter guys there where they get from (Although in truth they probably nicked them from one of the aircraft majors) as they are universally used in the aircraft fabrication world along with Avdel Pins which are the screw type (gives much grip, but much more expensive and three times as long to put in and remove.

Buy as many as you can afford, the more you have the better the panel is located and it will help to stop the panel bulging with all that sealant underneath! Our guys at work pin every other hole on sealed panels!

Also worth getting some 3/32" and 1/8" ones for those 'Other' little jobs. Once used you will wonder how you ever got by without.

PS they need special pliars, but if you are a cheapscate then a pair of long nose pliars can be adapted.