adamnreeves Posted November 10, 2005 Posted November 10, 2005 Oh dear, just when I thought I have done the hardest bit, the primary port clearance issue between the hydrollic clutch resvoir, spent three hours doing this one section of the pipe but I am very proud of it. I will post some pictures on my blog later this evening. My next issue is that I was screwing in the banjo connector and after doing it quite tight the banjo had lateral movement, now banjo connectors are a new thing for me but I am sure that the collar should not move sideways about 2mm! Anyway I thought I was being to gentle on the old spanner and turned it even more,then I thought this cannot be right, so I started to unscrew it and it felt tight to undo right to the last thread, oh what have I done!!! Anyway from what I can see the thread in the m/brake looks fine but the first three threads on the bonjo connector are squashed, I presume as a result of doing to tight! Have I missed a point or is the banjo connector not the right size! it has 16mm of thread. I have the standard WF m/brake for V8 SEiGHT Edit: Yes I do have the coper washers installed, either side of the collar as it was in the box. Another thought: I guess I can simply install another copper washer on the master cylinder side, but why does it not fit, and is this okay to do? I guess I will need to get the threads cleaned first as well. God I hope my brakes work! Quote
JAG Posted November 11, 2005 Posted November 11, 2005 It sounds like the banjo bolt 'bottomed' out in the threads of the master cylinder i.e the bolt is too long. You can shorten it. Quote
adamnreeves Posted November 11, 2005 Author Posted November 11, 2005 It sounds like the banjo bolt 'bottomed' out in the threads of the master cylinder i.e the bolt is too long. You can shorten it. I am new to the banjo concept and was wondering if I could do this. I am still wondering how these little things maintain a seal and as I do not know how they work thought I better not mess. I noticed that the the hole at the now damaged end is tapered internally and removing length from the bolt will remove this taper, this is okay? I guess when I shorten it I have to ensure that the new face on the bolt is completey smooth and flat or is this not important, I was wondering if this has to form a seal inside the master brake port. Quote
Mike H Posted November 11, 2005 Posted November 11, 2005 Here's my master cylinder with a banjo fitting on the front port: This is the AP cylinder which has been machined down a little to give extra clearance (Westfield factory do this for you). I am using banjo fittings from earls.co.uk because they have a lower profile (8mm) than, say, Goodridge. hth Mike Quote
adamnreeves Posted November 11, 2005 Author Posted November 11, 2005 Here's my master cylinder with a banjo fitting on the front port: This is the AP cylinder which has been machined down a little to give extra clearance (Westfield factory do this for you). I am using banjo fittings from earls.co.uk because they have a lower profile (8mm) than, say, Goodridge. hth Mike All looks nice and clean in there. Plenty of clearance now. Tell me did you upgrade the to the AP master brake from the standard or did you just go striaght for the upgrade. I ask because I have plumbed in the standard but will probably upgrade and was wondering if the ports line up with the old one, or will I have to do this dreaded plumbing again!! Quote
Mike H Posted November 11, 2005 Posted November 11, 2005 Upgraded when I bought my Outlaw 4-pots. The factory took the original m/cyl back as I hadn't used it and just charged me the difference (+p&p). Might be worth asking if they still do that. The ports pretty much line up with the std version so I don't think you'll have a problem. But as you'll probably guess the banjo bolt will bottom out in this too - especially as the port casting has been shortened by machining. It's clean 'cos it's still not finished regards Mike Quote
Barry Ashcroft Posted November 11, 2005 Posted November 11, 2005 I have the machined down AP master cylinder on my car I had to cut the bolt down to lengh and also ground the head of the bolt down to give me more room between the Banjo head and the engine. Barry Quote
Neil Purdie Posted November 11, 2005 Posted November 11, 2005 It sounds like the banjo bolt 'bottomed' out in the threads of the master cylinder i.e the bolt is too long. You can shorten it. I am new to the banjo concept and was wondering if I could do this. I am still wondering how these little things maintain a seal and as I do not know how they work thought I better not mess. I noticed that the the hole at the now damaged end is tapered internally and removing length from the bolt will remove this taper, this is okay? I guess when I shorten it I have to ensure that the new face on the bolt is completey smooth and flat or is this not important, I was wondering if this has to form a seal inside the master brake port. See the picture from MikeH. Its the two copper washers that form the seal. One either side of the banjo union, squished to the cylinder by the bolt. Shortening the the bolt should be ok so long as there is still enough thread to engage into the cylinder. dont forget to remove any swarf afterwards and ensure the drillings through the bolt are clear. Quote
adamnreeves Posted November 11, 2005 Author Posted November 11, 2005 I have done it. I filled the bolt down by 2mm (it took me 40mins) and used my air compressor to blow out the swarf through each hole, I spent about 2 mins doing it because I was being paronoid. I have tighten it until the colar did not move is that sufficient, I do not want to overtighten again! Quote
Barry Ashcroft Posted November 11, 2005 Posted November 11, 2005 Should do the job Guess you will no for definate when you bleed it and apply the brake. Barry Quote
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