Derby Allen Posted July 18, 2005 Share Posted July 18, 2005 dont know if i dare ask this question after looking at previous posts/history. well here we go: I am about to change the Diff oil seal for the second time and having now read some previous posts can expect to have a few problems. what i thought was a simple straight forward job i.e. unbolt the flange, pull out the old seal, replace and off we go. turns out that the flange apparently has to go back on in the same orientation and something about a crush washer " I dont seem to have one" and if so where would of it have gone (Directly behind the nut or before the flange" any advise now before i try and fit the flange back on, i.e backlash etc. ps these meant nothing to me before i read previos posts. also 6 days for SVA, just wanted to stop the oil leak............. Fix one problem and create another.... Thanks Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markcoopers Posted July 18, 2005 Share Posted July 18, 2005 I'll try this one, but could be speaking from my . The crush washer goes between the two pinion bearings, so would be nut, flange, oil seal, bearing, crush washer, bearing and not sure if there is a second oil seal. Anyways, the crush washer is about 2" long with a deformed bulb in the middle. Upon tightening the flange nut, this washer gets "crushed" between the two bearings. This I think is the "pre load on the pinion", ie how much force on the two bearings being pulled into place. Obviously too much and they get too much force and very quickly get ruined and sease up. Too little and the pinion might move around...actually I'm not 100% sure what too little will do, but I expect it would involve lateral movment of the whole assembly. The other effect is when tightening the nut up, the pinion is pulled away from the crown wheel. THis is very important, as too far away and the gears mesh at the edges only and this will result in wear and friction. Too close and this will also result in wear and friction. So needs to be spot on, and I think is refered to backlash.....probably wrong on that as well, but the needs to be spot on bit is correct. So tourquing up the nut is not an option, it needs to be right, and I think is often set with a spring ballance and checked with the diff out of the car. Like you I have read a lot of reports on here about tipexing the nut and counting the number of turns to remove, and thus reversing the process for instalation. I learn't one £ leason with diffs (local ford garage), so I would suggest finding an expert and paying for this job, it's bejond my skills. Is the leak an SVA Fail? if not, get it SVA'ed then fix it. MArk Awaits corrections....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derby Allen Posted July 18, 2005 Author Share Posted July 18, 2005 Mark, Thanks well you know a lot more than me about diffs. spent an hour looking around my garage floor to see if this so called washer at fallen out when i did the oil seal the first time. guess i'll go with your advise and get it back together and get it sorted after the SVA, just wanted to find out if there was an easy way of putting it all back correct. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chazpowerslide Posted July 18, 2005 Share Posted July 18, 2005 Nice to see a bit has sunk in Mark Chaz. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markcoopers Posted July 18, 2005 Share Posted July 18, 2005 Nice to see a bit has sunk in Mark Yep, fix anything with Barclaycard me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chazpowerslide Posted July 18, 2005 Share Posted July 18, 2005 Mmmmm. And that coming from a man who did a CVH to Zetec conversion, replaced his shocks, re-built his carbs, changed aeroscreen, changed his diff and made a bl**** good job of it all!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Learning curve flattening out a bit now!!!!! Chaz. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markcoopers Posted July 18, 2005 Share Posted July 18, 2005 Although he clearly didn't rebuild the carbs well enought, but I have a cunning plan for that. It involves Liam, not sure if he knows it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Keene Posted July 18, 2005 Share Posted July 18, 2005 You'll need him to find time to fit the new motor first... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chazpowerslide Posted July 18, 2005 Share Posted July 18, 2005 I thought putting the carbs in the dishwasher did them a power of good. Chaz. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markcoopers Posted July 18, 2005 Share Posted July 18, 2005 Fully recomend the dishwasher for cleaning up engine bits, just best done when SWMBO is out. So liam is playing with a new engine hey.......what's he got. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derby Allen Posted July 19, 2005 Author Share Posted July 19, 2005 Mark.......... ok i have now ordered the new crush washer, having read your description, the nut is now off, so is the Flange and seal, new one ready to fit, question is can i get the bearing out to get the old washer out and the new one in without taking the diff apart, the bearing seams to come out so far and then sticks on the shaft, any ideas, time running out quickly before the SVA, Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toby Mack Posted July 20, 2005 Share Posted July 20, 2005 IIRC the inner race of the outer bearing just slides over the pinion shaft. Not sure why it should be sticking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derby Allen Posted July 20, 2005 Author Share Posted July 20, 2005 I'll give it a good pull tonight then, It may be sticking where the thread starts, i take it the Crush washer then can be done with the Diff still in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markcoopers Posted July 20, 2005 Share Posted July 20, 2005 I'll be very carefull with my words here, a this could be misleading. The crush washer you have taken out, if you have done nothing with it like try to straighten it/squashed it more, then I would use this one. I guess you are going to retighten the nut as the tipex and counted turns theory, but this assumes that the crush washer remains "Crushed as is". Using a new one and then crushing again may nt require it to go to the same position/the nut in the same position to achieve the same preload and backlash. If you are only replacing the pinion oil seal (at the flange), and using the tipex/counted turns method, then leave the crushwasher and bearings in place and just change the oil seal. If the bearing is b*******ed, then diferent story but I'm afraid not an easy diy job IMHO. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derby Allen Posted July 20, 2005 Author Share Posted July 20, 2005 Hi mark. Answer to your questions: Nut, Flange and seal are out. (did not Tipex or count threads etc) so no way of knowing how tight etc toput it back, I have recieved the new crush washer by post today. axle is still on the car with the diff in place and i'm struggling to get the first bearing out as it appears to be sticking close towhere the threads are. I have two choices by the look of things, 1. use the existing crush washer and just put it all back together (Plus hope and pray) 2. or try and get the bearing out and replace the crush washer. this is the second oil seal in two weeks so the chances are i have already overtightened the washer from the first time. until reading a recent post i had know idea what was involved then knowing what i know now started to panic, just want to try and get it back the best i can atleast until after the SVA. any advise on the best approach welcome Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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