KerryS Posted June 22, 2005 Share Posted June 22, 2005 ...but my recently completed "Madness" kit, standard Ford single throttle body with WF cooling system seems to run at an indicated 90deg when up to temperature and quite quickly rises when in traffic queues and can get to over 110deg Fan cuts in OK and no apparent problems. It's still on original Severn & Trent water fill rather than water/antifreeze mix, the change to a/f is on the to-do list. So all this stuff about under-cooling seems a bit odd to me. I have seen recent threads that says Zetec meant to run hot to keep emissions low - Blatters? - so all seems well. Think I'm reporting no problem which seems vaguely worrying Kerry S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Wood Posted June 22, 2005 Share Posted June 22, 2005 Maybe the factory have re-engineered the cooling system to remove the bypass from the 'stat circuit. Have you tested it on the road or just at a standstill, because the overcooling will only be evident when the car is moving? The normal Zetec stat opens at about 92 degrees IIRC, so the temperatures look reasonable. 110 is a bit high for the fan to cut in but when you've got some antifreeze in the system (do this asap) it will raise the boiling point and you won't see a problem until 120 or so. Also, the gauges are not that accurate so it may not be as bad as it seems. Dropping the sender into a pan of boiling water with the gauge attached and powered up will give you a reference of where 100c is. You might be able to find a cooler fan switch but with the engine running at 90+ c it's difficult to find a cooler one that doesn't run all the time. You can actually fit a Xflow thermostat (82 or 87 C IIRC) into the zetec housing if you fit the rubber seal from around the old stat onto it. Kevin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chazpowerslide Posted June 23, 2005 Share Posted June 23, 2005 Mine runs at a steady 90-95degrees degrees Kerry. Zetecs are designed to run hot hence the 92 degree stat. For reference my guage is 10 degrees out (reads cold) Chaz. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geelhoed Posted June 23, 2005 Share Posted June 23, 2005 Mine runs at 90 indicated, but when under 30km/h it may rise to 100. Fan does it's job though never seen anyhing hotter than 100. It takes about 10-15 minutes of driving before she reaches 90 but then stays there. The cooling system is standard but I have a heater and I blanked off radiator breather instead of feeding it back to the header tank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KerryS Posted June 23, 2005 Author Share Posted June 23, 2005 For reference my guage is 10 degrees out (reads cold) That's why I said an indicated 90, Chaz. When I drain out the water to put A/F in, I can take the opportunity to check the sender/gauge, it's simple and a good idea, thanks. Data was when running, Kevin. Kerry S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blatman Posted June 23, 2005 Share Posted June 23, 2005 but when you've got some antifreeze in the system (do this asap) it will raise the boiling point No it won't. Ethylene Glycol based anti freezes DO NOT raise the boiling point of water. IIRC Ethylene Glycol boils at less than 100 degrees C. It's the pressure in the system that raises the boiling point of whatever combinations of liquid are in there. There is an excellent discussion of coolant over on the dark side. *Everyone* should take the time to read it AND understand it... After reading ths thread, I changed the coolant in both my Westfields to a Propylene Glycol based one. Oh, and I always mix my anti freeze with de-ionised water, 'cos it's an easy and cheap extra safeguard, and 'cos I'm anal like that... And FWIW, 115 degrees C is where I turn off an engine with an ally head and an iron block. IMHO 120 degrees is too hot to shut down as heat soak will push up the temps even further. 115 degrees allows another 5 degrees margin for heat soak... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flappa Posted June 23, 2005 Share Posted June 23, 2005 Kerry, Mine runs exactly as you describe with correct A/F mix. I was wondering the same, with recent threads on here. No worries then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KerryS Posted June 23, 2005 Author Share Posted June 23, 2005 Thanks for all this. Thanks Flappa too, as yours is same vintage it's comforting. With it sitting outside the office today, it'll have a head start warming up, the whole thing must be at 30 degrees already! Kerry S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deano.1 Posted June 23, 2005 Share Posted June 23, 2005 Mine runs between 90 & 100 as well! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stuart Posted June 23, 2005 Share Posted June 23, 2005 From Honest John's website. Looks like the jury is still out on propylene glycol: There are currently five main types of antifreeze. In all cases the 'anti-freeze' properties last the life of the coolant - it is the various additives that deteriorate with time. These additives include anti-foaming agents, surfactants (to improve the 'wetting' of the coolant and hence give better heat transfer) and, most importantly, anti-corrosion additives. As the range of alloys and plastics used in modern engines grows ever more complex it is important to ensure that the correct anti-freeze is used. 1. Ethylene Glycol (e.g. 'Bluecol' - this is the traditional stuff, used since the 1950's. It uses silicates to stop corrosion by passivating the metal surface. This type of anti-freeze is suitable for most European cars, but not Japanese cars. Japanese manufacturers normally recommend a low- or no-silicate formulation due to the nature of the seal materials that they use (see below). Typical service life of 2-4 years. 2. Ethylene Glycol: Low- or no-silicate formulation. This is specified by most Japanese cars. OEM Nissan, Toyota 'red' etc. antifreezes use phosphates rather than silicates to inhibit corrosion. Silicates are abrasive and the use of high silicate antifreezes in Japanese cars may result in premature failure of seal materials. Typical service life of 2-4 years. 3. Mono Propylene Glycol (e.g. Comma Coldstream) - this still uses silicates and is claimed to last 4 years. Mono Propylene Glycol does not conduct heat as well as Ethylene Glycol and currently carries NO recommendation from any major car manufacturer- and some actually caution against it. The main claim to fame for Mono Propylene Glycol is that its less toxic than Ethylene Glycol. Typical service life of 2-4 years. 4. Organic Acid Technology (OAT) - e.g. GM 'DexCool'. Introduced in 1995, this is a recyclable and biodegradable anntifreeze which is based on organic acids and is silicate- and phosphate-free. However, due to the nature of the chemicals used, it can attack certain seal and gasket materials and therefore should only be used in vehicles for which it is factory specified. OAT antifreeze MUST NOT be mixed with the types listed above - if you wish to switch to OAT type then the cooling system must first be chemically flushed. The claimed service life of the corrosion inhibitor package is about 5 years, or 100-150,000 miles. 5. Ethylene Glycol-based 'Hybrid Organic Acid Technology' (HOAT). Uses Ethylene Glycol, but with OAT-based corrosion inhibitors and some added silicates; most usually BASF's "Glysantin" additive package is used (also known as 'G-05'. HOAT is less agressive than straight OAT anti-freeze and has better cavitation resistance. Halfords 'Advanced Antifreeze' is an HOAT formulation. Again, best to thoroughly flush your system if switching to it. Lasts 4-5 years. The bottom line is to refill your engine with what the factory supplied and do a flush-and-refill every 4 years maximum. If you have a Japanese car, stick to the maker's brand since non-OEM coolants may contain higher levels of potentially damaging silicates. If mixing your coolant from a 'concentrate' then use demineralised or distilled water (available from motor factors at around £3 for 5 litres) to make up the quantity - UK tap water often has a lot of dissolved minerals in it which can leave scale deposits inside the engine's coolant passages. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldman Posted June 23, 2005 Share Posted June 23, 2005 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chazpowerslide Posted June 23, 2005 Share Posted June 23, 2005 F**k me!!!!! I use the blue one from Ford!!!!!!!!!! Chaz. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markcoopers Posted June 23, 2005 Share Posted June 23, 2005 Kerry, mine runs 90-100, and was fine last weekend to newark in the heat, no issues at all. Chaz, No Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eddy5 Posted June 23, 2005 Share Posted June 23, 2005 Mine's been fine in the 35'C heat in Le Mans. In taffic it goes to around an indicated 98'C before the fans cuts in, which then brings it down to around 92'C During normal driving about at good speeds it sticks around an indicated 89'C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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