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carb set-up


bulbul68

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A big hot day 'Hello' to all those in Westiland,I have a friend who has a problem with his car,its seems to be popping from the exhaust on idle as well as accelerating, I think its an ignition problem,hence unburnt fuel and flames in exhaust ,proved by removing the plug lead to #4 plug with no differance in idle, but he seems to think its somthing to do with his carbs as is was idling normally just before I arrived,so....any ideas? also if he's running a 10v coil on 12v or vica-versa could that be a problem

He has 1800 pinto with twin40 DCOM's running the dist.,coil and ignition box from an 1800 carb sierra.

Thanx

p.s.does anyone know of a carb or rolloing road tuners in West Sussex.Even more Thanx :p

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If removing plug lead 4 makes no difference to the idle in any way then you have got a problem  :D

Check for faulty plug leads, are the plugs wet when you inspect them? What about the rotor arm and dizzy cap - all ok?

Check the bob weights inside the dizzy are moving freely too as if they are not, it can cause some serious timing issues!

DCOM's eh? How does he find them working on the pinto? Do they hesiate at all?

Will.

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Dear Mr Itguy,

Thanx for the reply,I think my sorry, his problem is that the coil is the wrong one as when you pull the ignition lead off #1 plug, the engine nearly dies and since #4 lead is twice as long as #1 if the coil isnt upto it then hey presto!

Does anyone know of a rolling road or carb tuners in West Sussex?

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Does anyone know of a rolling road or carb tuners in West Sussex?

not sure off one in west sussex(which is where i am)but i used these

Gerald dale motor sports

ninfield garage

bexhill road

ninfield

east sussex

tel 01424 893903

sorted out my 1800 zetec on 40 webbers a treat.

HTH

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since #4 lead is twice as long as #1 if the coil isnt upto it then hey presto!

Lead length won't make *any* difference.

It sounds to me like No4 lead or plug is knackered. If it was the coil, it would affect all the cylinders, not just one...

To test the lead, switch it to another plug remembering to move the dizzy end of it too. If the problem moves with the lead, bingo. If No4 is still not sparking, chuck a new plug in it. If that doesn't fix it then check the dizzy cap at No4 to see if it's badly pitted/cracked/otherwise less than optimal. If it ain't that, then do a compression check...

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Once again,

A big thanx to all,just one thing, if a 10v coil was fitted to a 12v system wouldnt the coil breakdow over time or on hot days

CHEERS :D

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Once again,

A big thanx to all,just one thing, if a 10v coil was fitted to a 12v system wouldnt the coil breakdow over time or on hot days

CHEERS :D

Yes it would, and it can give some funny symptoms too. A new coil shouldnt cost that much...

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Probably a bit late for that now, *if* the 10v coil is the cause of the problems. By all means fit a ballast resistor with a new 10v coil, but why bother when a 12v will do the job just fine?. Fitting a ballast resistor will also mean some extra wiring, and possibly even a change of starter motor or solenoid...
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