Accelerator cable fixing

[Tony Hughes]

Ref Zetec 1800 Madness kit - I have assembled the accelerator cable through the hole in the dash as per the manual but it just doesn't seem good enough!  The inner cable will chaff on the toeboard panel and the vertical bracket and surely will be subject to wear?  There seems to be no form of abutment for the outer cable end and no adjuster nut as mentioned in the manual - the outer plastic cable end is not threaded anyway - should the outer also pass through the hole, thus avoiding the chafing risk (but still not providing a positive abutment for the outer).  Assuming all this makes sense to you readers - has anyone else has concerns and what have you done about it.  Thanks.

[Flappa]

Tony,

I must admit I was more concerned about the cable being retained by the tiny grub screw on the pedal. Time will tell I guess

[chappers]

Having changed my throttle cable since it decided to snap at a very inopportune moment, I had to file the metal ferrule at the end of the outer (Westfield supplied) cable because the step in it wouldn't fit the hole in the bulkhead. My old outer cable ferrule had a more pronounced step in it, so that the thicker part rested against the engine side bulkhead and the smaller part went through the bulkhead panel, meaning that the inner cable didn't touch the bulkhead at all, so no possibility of any chafing.

Cheers

Kev.

[KerryS]

From memory, and doing this bit seems ages ago (probably October or November last year) I think I opened out the hole in the bulkhead and chassis vertical to just take the end of the plastic ferrule upto a flange on it. The plastic ferrule was then a snug/tight fit without any retention. I also put a washer to spread teh load on the flange. Normal use ensures that it cannot come out as it will always be in compression. Might have a photo somewhere, I'll see.

You'll get used to things not being quite like the manual but do not hesitate to phone Mark at the factory, I only managed to stump him once with Q's. Alternatively, there is a mine of information here.

Kerry S

[KerryS]

Here in fact

HTH

Kerry S

[jak]

From memory, and doing this bit seems ages ago (probably October or November last year) I think I opened out the hole in the bulkhead and chassis vertical to just take the end of the plastic ferrule upto a flange on it. The plastic ferrule was then a snug/tight fit without any retention. I also put a washer to spread teh load on the flange. Normal use ensures that it cannot come out as it will always be in compression. Might have a photo somewhere, I'll see.

Mine is the same as Kerrys'. I' m sure kerry or me will tell you if/when it breaks  

John.

PS. that links duff, what was it supposed to be?

[Tony Hughes]

Thanks Kerry et al.  I will sort this by enlarging the hole in the bulkhead.

Cheers,

Tony

[KerryS]

Link works on 'puter here at work, John - it's a photo of the cable coming out of the bulkhead panel. Could you see it, Tony?

Storm took my internet down at home the other night - seems I have an ethernet link problem - it's on USB connection ATM which means I've lost all the wifi connection

Kerry

[Thrustyjust]

go to your local cycle shop and change those plastic ferrules for brass ones.They are the same size as the standard throttle cable.They are much stronger and don't split and collapse like the plastic jobs.While your there,get some cable end crimps that go on the end of the cable and prevent it from fraying and stabing you in the fingers,as they do.I use a brake cable for my throttle cable from a bike>i had to drill out the throttle pedal to allow the nipple to seat proper and the cable is stainless,so doesn't corrode like zinc coated ones and are smoother operation too.

[Tony Hughes]

Kerry. saw the pic - no problem - mine now looks similarly neat!  Thanks.

Tony