Fitting main body moulding

[Tony Hughes]

Just trial fitted the main moulding (Zetec 1800 complete factory kit) - pulling the body rear flange up to the chassis mountings raises the tabs at the roll bar plates around 8-10mm - I've read somewhere that the mouldings do move somewhat during curing and storage.  It is possible to clamp the body down to the plates but this puts some stresses in and there is nothing to hold the body down once the 51mm holes have been cut in the body and boot box to clear the roll bar - as the manual instructs (actually there are 2 sets of instructions for roll bar fitting - one cuts the 51mm holes and one seems to use the roll bar to hold down the body tabs on to the plates).  Waiting for reply from Westfield on this one but would appreciate any advice from others who have been here and done this.

[longshanks]

Hi Tony,

I've just fitted my bodywork, and I clamped the GRP tabs between the roll bar and the plates on the chassis.  This is the way it says to do it in my build manual, and from looking at personal build sites, it seems to be the way most people have done it (except for those who have welded on roll bars ).

HTH,

Graham

[MAT1800]

Tony,

I fitted the rollbar first, trapping the fibre glass between the rollbar and the chasis.

Then lifted up the rear skirt, a mate held it in place whilst I riveted it to the chasis. It was under some tension as we did this, but I belive this is all perfectly normal.

It does seem the most common approach to me.

[steppenwolf]

The 'normal' practice is indeed to sandwich the tabs between the chassis and the roll bar and then pull the skirt up under pressure - it will creak and moan ( don't most things when you pull their skirts up? ) but this is absolutely normal. If you have removeable rear wheel arches, you should be following the manual and fitting these first despite the fact that there will be even more creaking and moaning. As a matter of interest, I pulled the skirt on mine up while someone clamped it to the chassis with small wooden blocks to protect the finish thus giving me the opportunity of ensuring that it was in the correct position left to right before I rivetted it in place. Everyone moans about this procedure but if you creak as well, see your doctor ....

[nigelh]

Recently done this job as well and had the same thoughts as you.

I clamped the GRP tabs to the chassis and then put a body rivet towards the outside of the "square" to hold it.Don't go too far outboard or the rivet may show even when bootbox is in place (Doh!.

I then put a second rivet through the tabs,making sure it will not interfere with the rollbar location. I put it well inboard and towards the back of the car.

Then we (3 of us!! wrestled the back body into position using clamps and a trolley jack to pull up the GRP so that it could be rivetted.

Whilst it is held on the clamps and jack some adjustment is possible left/right and front/back to give best fit.

I wasn't happy with the GRP being sandwiched between the rollbar and the chassis and Westfield factory confirmed that the 51mm hole is the best option.

This was the bit of the build I was dreading. Now it's done I don't know what I was worried about.Take a deep breath and DO NOT rush it.

Good luck.

 

Race you to the SVA and to post an avatar

[deano.1]

This is the worst bit of the build, after this bit is over its all a downhill coast!

Good luck

[Ted]

Spoke to Westfield about this and their recommendation was to put a body rivet or two as described above it. I did this and it worked fine.

Enjoy the rest of your build

TED  

[Tony Hughes]

Many thanks to all who have taken the time to reply.  I have had a trolley jack under the rear skirt and clamps on the tabs for a few days now and on releasing the clamps the body is already fitting better.  I really think the tabs should be trapped or rivets added - otherwise there is nothing to retain the body in this area   - If the body sits high the hood brackets will be partially obscured.

Tony