Jan Coombes Posted June 23, 2003 Share Posted June 23, 2003 In the excitement yesterday and me having only driven the car for 6 miles & being poo, I got 1st and not 3rd coming up to the mole hill, the tell-tale needle read 7500 and the limiter is set to 7000 (is this to high BTW?) This was on my 1st time run, the 2nd one was fine but it was showing low pressure coming back to the pits (I think this was lack of oil as my cam cover was leaking) It is a Standard engine with ARP bolts and the mild cams from QED Do you think it will be OK? Anything I need to check, do, look at? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Everall Posted June 23, 2003 Share Posted June 23, 2003 With ARP big end bolts it should be fine at only 7500rpm.Some of us go a bit higher !! For me most of the course is 2nd gear with 3rd only coming at end of finishing straight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jan Coombes Posted June 23, 2003 Author Share Posted June 23, 2003 I was told that, but i thought I would use 3rd for a bit to stop me over reving the engine as it is new. Well that idea worked a treat didn't it..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jan Coombes Posted June 25, 2003 Author Share Posted June 25, 2003 Right I have got it all back home and check everything over and the car is leaking oil out of the bell housing. This is engine oil, as that is the only one that has gone down. Someone said this is the seal on the back of the engine, what is this can anyone lend any help or suggestion? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blatman Posted June 25, 2003 Share Posted June 25, 2003 Sounds like the crank seal. Engine out, I'm afraid......IIRC, there is a specific sequence/method to fitting it so that it does not leak. A trawl of MigWeb would no doubt find the answer, 'cos I can't remember what it is right now......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jan Coombes Posted June 25, 2003 Author Share Posted June 25, 2003 You are the 3rd person that has said that so I guess you must be all right. I am sorting out a crain at the moment. Anyone in the Brentwood Essex Area free this weekend to give me a hand? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.c Posted June 25, 2003 Share Posted June 25, 2003 Just had a look in a Haynes manual, and this can be replaced with the crank in situ. So you don't need to dissemble the engine. Cheers David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ian_perry Posted June 25, 2003 Share Posted June 25, 2003 You will need to take your engine out This is because you need to take the flywheel off to remove/replace the crank seal. I suppose u could remove your propshaft + gearbox/bellhousing and remove the flywheel that way but IMO it's much easier to work on the engine out of the car. I have built a couple of Vx engines that have had this problem, and learnt the hard way. IMO the best way to stop leaks is to ensure that you have enough sealant (use the GM stuff) in the grooves on the bearing cap sides to ensure that it seals to the crank case. The haynes manual from what I remember says to fill the grooves from the top when the bearing cap is in place - this rarely fills the grooves properly IME! Also ensure that u get the bearing cap flush with the outer crankcase face (use a straight edge). This normaly prevents leaks HTH Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ian_perry Posted June 25, 2003 Share Posted June 25, 2003 DOH! Just read my posting, missed the whole point a bit really!! In my experience there may be a leak from around the crank seal, but it's not normally the actual seal that's at fault. The leak is normally caused by misalignment of the bearing cap that the seal sits in, or a leak from around the bearing cap itself where it has not sealed to the crankcase. Hope this makes things a bit clearer!?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jan Coombes Posted June 26, 2003 Author Share Posted June 26, 2003 Thanks for all your help. I have started taking bits off the engine ready the removal on Saturday. Just so I know what to ask for and don't look like a muppet I need Rear oil seal Main cap oil seal GM sealant Is that right? Does any one have a digtial copy of the haynes manual for the engine, they could email me Jp@genesys.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ian_perry Posted June 26, 2003 Share Posted June 26, 2003 All you need is the rear oil seal (big orange 'O'ring) and some GM sealant. The rear main bearing cap seals to the crankcase with the sealant Got some pics somewhere from when I rebuilt my engine, I'll post them up when I get home from work. HTH Ian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ian_perry Posted June 29, 2003 Share Posted June 29, 2003 Ok, found some pics, not really of exactly what you're doing - but hopefully should be helpful On the top picture A & C are the faces which the bearing cap seals to, put your sealant on there and the associated faces on the bearing cap. B is where the crankshaft oil seal fits. The second pic shows the bearing cap in place, you can just about see the sealant Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jan Coombes Posted July 1, 2003 Author Share Posted July 1, 2003 Thanks very much for all your help. The engine is all back in and sorted, Thanks to some help of some friends. No leaks *whoo* Al ready to kick ass at the next SS round. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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