Neil Purdie Posted March 4, 2004 Posted March 4, 2004 I have been talking to my local engine builder about getting more power from my engine ( 1700cc, lightly worked GT head and BCF2 cam). Somebody he knows had an old hot rod engine in his shed. If he remembers corectly, the spec is - In the region of 190BHP. Steel crank and rods forged pistons Kent 262 or 264 cam? a bit wild I think Vbig valve head steel rockers lightflywheel inlet manifold and 45 or 48 carbs Drysump and pump (no tank) £1500 ish If it is still in his shed, and in decent condition, I think this would be a better option than messing about with my engine. But is it a bit excesive. Thoughts please Neil Quote
Thrustyjust Posted March 4, 2004 Posted March 4, 2004 I know of a guy who had just short of 190bhp from a hod rod crossflow.He scrapped the hotrod,bought a westie,but got to drive just between petrol stations.Very lumpy and gutless low down,went like a scalded cat on cam,but made about 10mpg. Quote
Neil Purdie Posted March 4, 2004 Author Posted March 4, 2004 I know of a guy who had just short of 190bhp from a hod rod crossflow.He scrapped the hotrod,bought a westie,but got to drive just between petrol stations.Very lumpy and gutless low down,went like a scalded cat on cam,but made about 10mpg. Thats what i was thinking. Could always downgrade to a 254 or 244 cam. Quote
Nick M Posted March 4, 2004 Posted March 4, 2004 An engine that's been sat in a shed might need a decent inspection before you'd know if it was any good or not. Any sort of moisture in the engine could result in corrosion of the bores (the residual oil may be enough to prevent bad rusting but I'd expect there to be some corrosion in there) or valves unless it's been properly stored. Neither of which can be a good thing. And when you mention replacing the cam for a milder one you may find the next thing is that you don't need 48s (or even 45s) and that maybe a pair of 40s would be adequate.... And I just can't help thinking it's potentially a ticking time-bomb... I personally think you'd be better served by playing with your engine because a) I think it would work out cheaper in the long run and b) because I think you'll end up with a nicer engine, i.e. less peaky and smoother to drive. Quote
RichB Posted March 4, 2004 Posted March 4, 2004 I had a 180bhp Xflow in a hillclimb car, Piper 300 cam, chambered BV head. Wonderful on cam but nothing below 4000rpm, and wouldn't have fancied that in a road car. As said above you could put a milder cam in, but you may find the comression ratio is very high at the moment which requires octane booster all the time to prevent detonation, plus it also may not be lead free. Just some things to think about. Rich. Quote
Neil Purdie Posted March 5, 2004 Author Posted March 5, 2004 Cheers Nick / Rich Yes a look inside for corrosion is a good idea, depending where its stored. If I dont need 48/45 carbs after a potential cam downgrade then I have 40's on my motor at the moment. I dont know the compresion ratio yet. So dont know if booster would be required. ( my old VX Astra 1.6 ran CR of 11.2 to 1, and was particular on its timing and fuel octane, which was expensive on 15,000 miles a year) Westy would be 3-5000 miles so not too bad anyway. Quote
John Loudon - Sponsorship Liaison Posted March 5, 2004 Posted March 5, 2004 Go for it !! A steel crank and rods would cost you £1500 on there own. Rob Navin who posts on here has a 190 bhp X/Flow on 48s. He doesnt seem to have any problems (well not with what we are talking about anyway ) No doubt he will be along in the minute to add his opinion. John Quote
Neil Purdie Posted March 5, 2004 Author Posted March 5, 2004 Just found out that it may have an A8 cam. Even more barking than I first thought Power band - 5.5K to 9.5K. Duration 352 degree. If I do decide to buy and fit it as is, my Stack ST700 only goes to 8K ( can they be altered for different rev ranges ) Neil Quote
Thrustyjust Posted March 5, 2004 Posted March 5, 2004 If it's got an 'ultimate' valved head,there may not be enough space between the seats to fit unleaded inserts,so you might be on valve additive as well as octane booster!!!! Quote
Rob Navin Posted March 5, 2004 Posted March 5, 2004 Hi mate I have now got mine to 200bhp, which is great. The Mass which I run was designed for short oval racing so we are probably looking at the same type of engine. I have not reved mine to excess, the most my re calibrated stack has ever recorded is about 9250 rpm. Most of the Mass engine is built with mostly Cosworth parts, which are readily avalible, but not that cheap. The cheapest that I have seen a Complete Mass for is just under 3k, so as long as most of its OK then you should have a bargin. As John says a steel crank and rods would be about a grand and a half. Another thing to check when you have a look is if it is a gear driven cam system, these can wear the gears if they have not been set up properly I am told, but are ultimatly a lot more accurate than the chains you are used to. I have to say I would be tempted by this but do not expect to drop it in and go. I would budget enough for a FULL rebuild on it as when it's screaming at 9K plus you do not want it to go bang. A decent exhaust manifold is also a big bonus. On the road with a twin plate clutch its fine but the car does come in to its own when its on full choat on the track If you want a chat give me a ring on 07984 164184 or where are you in the country ? I am in Chesterfield, Derbyshire and would be only to pleased to take you out for a spin in mine. HTH Rob Quote
Major Stare Posted March 6, 2004 Posted March 6, 2004 I am in Chesterfield, Derbyshire and would be only to pleased to take you out for a spin in mine. Just phone Rob up for a blast in his..........i can pass comment on Rob's car as ive been in it. The engine is fantastic, power, power, power, revs, etc. Quote
Neil Purdie Posted March 6, 2004 Author Posted March 6, 2004 Rob, Thanks for the offer of a blat, however I live in Elgin (between Inverness and Aberdeen). A great area, but a pain being so far north at times. A few questions- 1. What alternator are you running, I forsee problems with over reving it. I may as well get one up to the job, as mine is scrap. 2. Are you using polo/golf rad. Currently have polo fitted. 3. What spec is your exhaust manifold. Primary length/diameter. Currently 750mm long/35mm ID 4. How many gallons per mile 5. You mention recalibrated Stack. I take it that mine can be recalibrated to 10K. Yes I agree that if the crank, rods and sump are ok then everything else is a bonus Cheers Neil Quote
Rob Navin Posted March 6, 2004 Posted March 6, 2004 A few questions- 1. What alternator are you running, I forsee problems with over reving it. I may as well get one up to the job, as mine is scrap. 2. Are you using polo/golf rad. Currently have polo fitted. 3. What spec is your exhaust manifold. Primary length/diameter. Currently 750mm long/35mm ID 4. How many gallons per mile 5. You mention recalibrated Stack. I take it that mine can be recalibrated to 10K. Yes I agree that if the crank, rods and sump are ok then everything else is a bonus Cheers Neil Hi Niel 1. I am runing a light weight ali job, but I did run a standard fiesta one that worked fine. 2. The polo rad that I have had on mine has been fine for this year, no sifference to the 4 core Caterham rad that it used to run. 3. I will did the exhaust spec out for you and send it over. 4. Dont ask, I think the space shuttle has a better average 5. Yep, I sent mine back to Demon Tweeks who aranged to have the face changed by stack to 12k and mine calibrates off the wheel size on the options anyway. HTH Rob. Quote
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