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Rookie mistake


JamesGN
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So at the recent track day at Blyton I managed to melt my wscc jacket to my exhaust. It's looking like it's needed to be sanded back and re-polished. What's the chances of getting it back to original condition or is it toast. IMG-20210709-WA0000.thumb.jpeg.696c8ce11a0754cdac24d717e1e62bec.jpeg

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It’s not toast it’s nylon 🤣

 

I would apply some heat and try to soften the material first wipe off as much as you can, I’d avoid heavy abrasives, if be trying hard sponge/polishing machine and cutting paste first. I would say it’s salvageable although you may have a faint stain left. Don’t sand, the scratches will certainly ruin the stainless.

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Completely fixable, unlike the jacket!

 

Being careful of the fumes, melting synthetics can be nasty, with a bit of heat ans a softish plastic scraper, you can probably get more off.

 

Then it’s just a case of how far back with abrasives you need to go. I’d try with just a polish first though, and if that doesn’t do it, relative fine grade wet and dry first, and if that doesn’t fix it, go a step courser.

 

once you’ve got it off, come back up through the grades to fine, then machine polish with a proper polishing wheel and polishes for stainless.

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3 minutes ago, Andy - a15cro said:

Don’t sand, the scratches will certainly ruin the stainless.


Not true, but you do really need a proper mop and compounds to take it back to a proper polished finish again. Fortunately you can get small kits from the like of Frost’s that will do it, and polishing mops and arbours that will fit a drill, rather than needing a bench top polisher - though that’s ultimately faster/better.

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Nice shoes... Keep them away from the exhaust 

🙄

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4 hours ago, Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary said:


Not true, but you do really need a proper mop and compounds to take it back to a proper polished finish again. Fortunately you can get small kits from the like of Frost’s that will do it, and polishing mops and arbours that will fit a drill, rather than needing a bench top polisher - though that’s ultimately faster/better.


In ‘sand’ I was talking taking some 40/60 or 80 ‘high abrasive’ type grit to it. I consider wet and dry more of a ‘flat’ but then that’s the environment I learned my trade in many years ago. 😁

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3 minutes ago, Andy - a15cro said:


In ‘sand’ I was talking taking some 40/60 or 80 ‘high abrasive’ type grit to it. I consider wet and dry more of a ‘flat’ but then that’s the environment I learned my trade in many years ago. 😁

Yeah I always think of “sandpaper” in terms of the really coarse abrasive stuff that will leave deep scratches - and “wet n dry” as the stuff used to finely abrade things 😁👍

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If you badly dangler it up you can always use scotchbrite pad and make the entire thing “brushed steel” (which looks better anyway IMO!)

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49 minutes ago, Andy - a15cro said:


In ‘sand’ I was talking taking some 40/60 or 80 ‘high abrasive’ type grit to it. I consider wet and dry more of a ‘flat’ but then that’s the environment I learned my trade in many years ago. 😁

 

Fair enough! 😄 I reckon if you needed to go that course on a silencer, you've probably already totalled the can, you're right!

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Thanks for tips guys. Safe to say I will be more carful where I place things 

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image.thumb.jpg.20988a9aaf7d22e863a69ef1c5efd748.jpg
 

This works a treat & also takes all the discolouration off.

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