chris sideways Posted March 18, 2003 Share Posted March 18, 2003 Need some advice please guys I'm going to need to replace my lsd rear diff as it's making some horrible clonking noises and it's leaking oil quite badly when running,I've managed to get a replacement one from a breakers from a Serria 4x4 which is the same as the one coming out(I hope)is this a job that can be done on the drive at home with just the basic tools and a very limited knowledge or will it have to go into a garage.I really don't mind having a go if it's possible as I only paid £75 for the diff and don't really won't to double that to have it fitted. If someone could give me a break down of how to do this job if you think it is possible I would be very grateful. Many Thanks. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steppenwolf Posted March 18, 2003 Share Posted March 18, 2003 Not a horrendous job really. A rough guide to the procedure would be as follows:- 1. Having removed the boot box, jack up the rear of the car and rest on axle stands with the usual precautions. 2. Undo the bolts holding the CV joints to the output flanges on the diff. 3. Undo top wishbone to upright/bottom of coil-over bolt on boths sides and remove - this will allow the uprights to move outwards, taking the drive shafts with them. 4. Undo the prop. shaft from the front drive flange. 5. Undo one of the two M12 nuts on either end of the bottom retaining stud and withdraw the stud. 6. Undo the two M10 bolts on the rear of the diff. that are used as stabilisers. 7. Support the diff. with either ropes or underneath with a hydraulic jack and undo and withdraw the top M12 stud ( or two M12 bolts depending on the exact diff. you have ) and lift the diff out. 8. Install the new diff. in reverse order It is important that the CV joints are held to the output flanges of the new diff. with correctly torqued bolts ( 25 lbf ft ) with thread locking compound. The same applies to the fitment of the propshaft ( 35 lbf ft ) which must also have thread locking compound on the threads. Once I had tightened up my bolts, I marked them with white paint onto both the head of each bolt and the body of the CV joint so that it was easy to check that they had not come loose in use - they never have! No doubt my methodology will have a flaw somewhere but it should be a good start Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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