Westie Megabusa - yes or no?

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

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[tex]

Well done! You'll not regret it. 

You will be fixing the reverse box of course if fitted... 

It will more likely leak from the input/output drive shaft seals or breather.. Don't let it run dry as it will very fast. Top it to the fill hole on the side. EP90 gear oil works fine. 

Grease the 4 propshaft UJ's at least once a year till you see grease squeeze out gaps, wipe excess off. 

Change the oil twice a year if your using it often. I bought an oil extraction pump to get at the oil tanks oil. Drain the rest via the drain plug. Fit a magnetic plug (M12x1.5).  If the sump is silver it'll probably be a Westfield sump. People say its crap but tbh I've not had a single issue despite a certain Andy bates saying it was porous but hasn't leaked yet. Make sure the oil hoses on the bottom of the sump are very tight. Use 2 high quality jubilee clips as there's no lip on the metal hose to stop the pipe coming off. 

Westfield Parts are obsolete now (I've just bought the last sump and all the other bits which wasn't much tbh) 

The scavenge pump is defo no longer available so look after it. The nuts holding the propshaft on (the big one in the centre) is also obsolete anywhere - you'll have to get one made if you Break it. 

Gaskets, buy anywhere for the engine. 

Best upgrade I made, get it corner weighed and suspension set up... Feels great again now. 

Bodywork takes about 6 weeks if you need replacements. 

Check nearly all the bolts regularly, stuff falls off mine all the time... Lost the horn and flared engine side panel bolts last run to scotland.. 

 

And enjoy it! 

 

[Kingster]

3 hours ago, tex said:

stuff falls off mine all the time..

That’s just coz you’re tight with the loctite Terry 🤣

[tex]

2 hours ago, Chris King - Webmaster and Joint North East AO said:

That’s just coz you’re tight with the loctite Terry 🤣

Bahhhhhhh 🙄

[StumpandDumpRacing]

22 hours ago, tex said:

Well done! You'll not regret it. 

You will be fixing the reverse box of course if fitted... 

It will more likely leak from the input/output drive shaft seals or breather.. Don't let it run dry as it will very fast. Top it to the fill hole on the side. EP90 gear oil works fine. 

Grease the 4 propshaft UJ's at least once a year till you see grease squeeze out gaps, wipe excess off. 

Change the oil twice a year if your using it often. I bought an oil extraction pump to get at the oil tanks oil. Drain the rest via the drain plug. Fit a magnetic plug (M12x1.5).  If the sump is silver it'll probably be a Westfield sump. People say its crap but tbh I've not had a single issue despite a certain Andy bates saying it was porous but hasn't leaked yet. Make sure the oil hoses on the bottom of the sump are very tight. Use 2 high quality jubilee clips as there's no lip on the metal hose to stop the pipe coming off. 

Westfield Parts are obsolete now (I've just bought the last sump and all the other bits which wasn't much tbh) 

The scavenge pump is defo no longer available so look after it. The nuts holding the propshaft on (the big one in the centre) is also obsolete anywhere - you'll have to get one made if you Break it. 

Gaskets, buy anywhere for the engine. 

Best upgrade I made, get it corner weighed and suspension set up... Feels great again now. 

Bodywork takes about 6 weeks if you need replacements. 

Check nearly all the bolts regularly, stuff falls off mine all the time... Lost the horn and flared engine side panel bolts last run to scotland.. 

 

And enjoy it! 

 

Thanks for the message pal, it drives brilliant especially when you give it the berries, but its a bit lumpy and clattery at low speed.  Lots of rattling and clattering coming from the rear...not sure what this is but it only does it when the car judders at low speed (think there is a mapping issue i need to look at)

[tex]

There's always a lot of rattle in the gear train.. Not much you can do tbh, just listen and learn what's normal 

[Kingster]

No experience of BEC but lots of bike experience. It’s pretty normal for bikes at tick over to have a bit of clutch basket rattle and to appear to “clunk” into first gear. They all have straight cut dog boxes so transmission is different from a car synchromesh box. Bikes also usually have a “Cush drive” in the rear wheel that helps soak up the gear backlash - but you won’t have that on a car (I guess) so the noise will be transmitted more. Bikes also need to tick over much higher than cars as they have very little flywheel mass. All adds up!

[JulianE]

@StumpandDumpRacing make sure you regularly check the propshaft mounting bolts , I MOT lots of Westfields and have had several bec's with loose or missing propshaft bolts over the course of a few years whereas car engined variants are invariably ok , we even had one lose a prop on its way to a monthly meeting the once and someone went and towed it in . 

[Castlecroft]

agree with JulianE, we use to have issues with prop bolts coming loose .. we now have aero K nuts fitted -- and this solved all issues ...

 

[StumpandDumpRacing]

1 hour ago, JulianE said:

@StumpandDumpRacing make sure you regularly check the propshaft mounting bolts , I MOT lots of Westfields and have had several bec's with loose or missing propshaft bolts over the course of a few years whereas car engined variants are invariably ok , we even had one lose a prop on its way to a monthly meeting the once and someone went and towed it in . 

Thanks for the heads up...where are these prop shaft bolts that i need to check exactly?? The front or rear? Are there any torque settings or just FT?

 

 

[StumpandDumpRacing]

8 minutes ago, Castlecroft said:

agree with JulianE, we use to have issues with prop bolts coming loose .. we now have aero K nuts fitted -- and this solved all issues ...

 

Where do i get the aero k nuts from? Thanks

[Castlecroft]

We got ours from trident racing supplies at Silverstone... but there are lots of other suppliers...

trident have a downloadable catalogue....

https://tridentracing.co.uk/

[tex]

You really don't need to change them. 

They should be cap head Allen key bolts M10? Can't remember. But if the threads are clean use a dab of thread lock on each one. Tighten up as tight as you can get it. They come loose because the reverse box leaks oil on them, oil gets behind and works them loose. Fix the leaks and add thread lock 

[tex]

2 hours ago, StumpandDumpRacing said:

Thanks for the heads up...where are these prop shaft bolts that i need to check exactly?? The front or rear? Are there any torque settings or just FT?

 

 

They're usually the 4 bolts prop input to rgb and the 4 output also the large centre one when you remove prop you can see it holding prop adapter on.. The one that's obsolete.. 

[StumpandDumpRacing]

4 hours ago, tex said:

You really don't need to change them. 

They should be cap head Allen key bolts M10? Can't remember. But if the threads are clean use a dab of thread lock on each one. Tighten up as tight as you can get it. They come loose because the reverse box leaks oil on them, oil gets behind and works them loose. Fix the leaks and add thread lock 

I havent got a reverse box...just a 'get out and push' mode lol ...does that make a difference?