Crossflow running problem, help needed

[James_westy]

So I took my Westy to blyton last Sunday for it to burn out plugs three and four cutting my day short. Swapped the plugs (b7ecs) to some bp7es after looking on here. Car was running albeit a little rough on idle, even more so than usual. It didn’t really seem to 100% clear when revved. I wondered if any leads were loose so checked the spark plug ends, all tight. Then checked the dizzy side but I knocked the cap slightly and it unclipped itself and in turn the engine died. It hasn’t started since tried everything swapped the plugs back to the others, took the cap off completely all looked fine. Just wondered if there’s anything else to check? 

[Kevin (Mr T)]

9 minutes ago, James_westy said:

So I took my Westy to blyton last Sunday for it to burn out plugs three and four cutting my day short. Swapped the plugs (b7ecs) to some bp7es after looking on here. Car was running albeit a little rough on idle, even more so than usual. It didn’t really seem to 100% clear when revved. I wondered if any leads were loose so checked the spark plug ends, all tight. Then checked the dizzy side but I knocked the cap slightly and it unclipped itself and in turn the engine died. It hasn’t started since tried everything swapped the plugs back to the others, took the cap off completely all looked fine. Just wondered if there’s anything else to check? 

Never burnt plugs, buy did have a problem with it not starting (or sometimes stopping) unexpectedly. Found that the dizzy cap just didn't "locate" properly, even when replaced and could move off centre very easily. Ended up going megajolt, which didn't cost a fortune and transformed the way the mighty crossflow started and ran.

[James_westy]

My car has been to bogg bros and they did mention that megajolt was a good idea. Maybe just not getting my cap on in the right position then, it does seem a little vague when putting the clips on, no definite centralising as you say. Maybe I should go zetec and have done with it!

[Kevin (Mr T)]

Too tall for a pre-lit. I'm going 1.7 Sigma next year.

[John (Kernow)]

Check that the locating peg hasn’t sheared on the rotor arm when the cap was knocked. This will give a non start if knocked out of position.

John

[Olliebeak]

My car has a Megajolt Lite and runs fine but I still have the original distributor with side entry cap, you can have it foc plus post just let me know. 

[Thrustyjust]

If the car was running while you knocked the cap, you may have damaged the rotor arm or cap contacts. Check them for damage. Also to burn plugs means they are overheating. Might need hotter plugs or the mixture is a bit lean.

[James_westy]

45 minutes ago, Thrustyjust said:

If the car was running while you knocked the cap, you may have damaged the rotor arm or cap contacts. Check them for damage. Also to burn plugs means they are overheating. Might need hotter plugs or the mixture is a bit lean.

I’m hoping to have knocked the lug off that centralises the rotary arm that’d be a cheap fix. The car was setup about 100miles ago so I’d hope the fueling/timing was ok. It’s going to have to go back to be checked again. 

[B.RAD]

Check the carbon tip in the dizzy cap - when my car was crossflow powered, I bought a brand new distributor and cap from accuspark and after a trackday at Bedford, having run perfectly all day, on the way out after going over a sleeping policeman the car cut out and wouldn't restart. Turned out the carbon tip in the distributor cap had just sheered off. Poor quality 

Worth a check as a cheap starting point...

Good luck with it!

[James_westy]

Had my car in bits today...sadly the dizzy cap was as it should be no damage to the locator tip. Swapped dizzys and still no joy. Tested the spark and have a decent spark on every cylinder. Fuel is as it should be, pump is working and can see it in the inline filter. 

Any other suggestions, just want it running to get it back to garage!

[B.RAD]

Check timing, doesn't take much for the dizzy to be out.  

[Captain Colonial]

Sooty black carboned up plugs usually mean weak spark, plugs too hot or overly rich fuel mixture.  As it happened to 3 and 4, I’m guessing the rear carb is too rich.  You should go back to the original plugs - 1 and 2 were working fine, another hint it may be overly rich on the rear carb.

[Thrustyjust]

If you have fuel and a spark, it should go . Even if the timing is out , it will misfire or run rough. Something else is amiss.

[Phil J]

Are you sure the fuel pump is working properly and the fuel is getting to the carbs.

Have you got a fuel pressure regulator in the system - I'm thinking more towards fuel starvation rather than overfueling therefore running lean and not starting.

What carbs have you got?