Scotty72 Posted July 7, 2017 Posted July 7, 2017 Darn it! Tried to remove the oil pressure sender from S2000 engine to replace with a new one and I only managed a quarter turn and it sheared off leaving the thread in the block What's the best way to get the thread out? Cheers Quote
Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO Posted July 7, 2017 Posted July 7, 2017 I did the same trying to fix a leak on mine last year, though it was the adapter that snapped off. I was able to use a cutting disk in a dremmel to cut a slot in the brass piece and then used a flat bladed screw driver bit in a 1/4" drive ratchet to screw it out. Take you time and take care and I'm sure you'll have similar success. I've previously used Hondabond to get an oil tight seal, however recently found mine had come loose, so I've now used high temp, oil reistant loctite 2701. 1 Quote
CraigHew Posted July 8, 2017 Posted July 8, 2017 as @IanKsaid, it will come out with time and care. Being brass, it's much softer than the engine casing which will let go eventually. if there isn't enough material for you to work with consider getting a stud extractor kit (off ebay) or similar. they have left hand threads so as you tighten the extractor eventually the residual brass sender bit will unscrew from the block. 1 Quote
Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman Posted July 8, 2017 Posted July 8, 2017 How flush has it sheared off? Does oil bleed out of it, (through a central opening...) If you can see a fine trace of oil in the centre, just be careful doing too much drilling and cutting as you effectively have a narrow, but non the less open passage into the engines oilways., anynextractors, saws, drills etc used, try dipping the end in some grease first, to capture any swarf/metal filings. The other thing that can be worth trying with softer materials, is to find a Tork key bit that is jypust a little bigger than the hole in the sheared off part, and carefully tap it in, so that the splines dig into the broken off stub. You can then often use this to wind out the damaged bit. (Don't go trying to mash it in with a sledge hammer though!) Quote
Thrustyjust Posted July 8, 2017 Posted July 8, 2017 Dave, stick a picture up on your hose to show a 'better' way of mounting the pressure switch . Its something I may do at some point as the sender is quite heavy. 1 Quote
Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman Posted July 8, 2017 Posted July 8, 2017 No worries, @IanK and I were just talking about this the other night at the Cheshire meet; it's how I was told to do it on my old car by the people that make the very expensive precision senders Race Technology use. Not a great shot, but you can see the blue anodised t-piece here, for the O/P gauge sender - p-clipped to the chassis, plus the lop pressure warning lamp sender. Quote
DamperMan Posted July 8, 2017 Posted July 8, 2017 If it's got some sort of loctite/ hondalock... in the threads it might be an idea to get some heat into it. A good hit of heat breaks the bond and it's amazing how easy things unscrew after. Quote
DamperMan Posted July 8, 2017 Posted July 8, 2017 The pressure sensor is usually after the filter so it's best to avoid drilling etc and getting nasties in the engine lube section. Quote
Scotty72 Posted July 8, 2017 Author Posted July 8, 2017 Sorted I got myself a 90degree chuck adapter for battery drill and opened out the hole in the centre to 6mm in 1mm increments taking care not to drill right out the back of the thread. Bought a set of screw/bolt extractors and gradually wound it in until it hit the back of the thread which I had left in. Now I had created a good grip for the extractor I took it back out and gave a 2-3 minute Heat cycle with blow a torch then wound the extractor back in. Now was the dreaded bit, kept applying more and more pressure with the ratchet until bingo, the sender threat started to come out, PHEW! NEXT step was to give the engine a short turnover, just enough for it to squirt a small amount of oil from the hole to clear any debris that may have been there. I shone a torch into the hole prior to this and to be fair i couldnt see any swarf from the drilling anyway. Now just got to wait for the replacement sender to come on Monday. 2 Quote
Scotty72 Posted July 8, 2017 Author Posted July 8, 2017 23 hours ago, IanK said: I did the same trying to fix a leak on mine last year, though it was the adapter that snapped off. I was able to use a cutting disk in a dremmel to cut a slot in the brass piece and then used a flat bladed screw driver bit in a 1/4" drive ratchet to screw it out. Take you time and take care and I'm sure you'll have similar success. I've previously used Hondabond to get an oil tight seal, however recently found mine had come loose, so I've now used high temp, oil reistant loctite 2701. Hi Ian My sender didn't have an adapter, the thread screwed straight into the block. Was also thinking.... I only have one wire which went to the low pressure warning connector on the sender I was trying to replace. Do you think there should be another wire which goes back to the ECU or dash2 for the pressure reading? I tested the broken sender with a multimeter before it snapped and i got a reading of 95 ohms when started which i think would indicate that it was working. Another reason why i think this could be the answer is when the cable was connected to the G terminal it gave exactly the same reading on the dash2 when it was completely disconnected. Cheers Scott Quote
Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO Posted July 9, 2017 Posted July 9, 2017 Others have managed to screw a sender in without the adapter too. The factory design only has one wire on the sender wired only to the dash2. This is used for oil pressure display in bar and also for low pressure alarm.I assume the resistance value was measured on the G terminal. Did the value change with engine running and not running? Quote
Scotty72 Posted July 9, 2017 Author Posted July 9, 2017 57 minutes ago, IanK said: Others have managed to screw a sender in without the adapter too. The factory design only has one wire on the sender wired only to the dash2. This is used for oil pressure display in bar and also for low pressure alarm.I assume the resistance value was measured on the G terminal. Did the value change with engine running and not running? Yes it was read from the G terminal. I got a reading of 8.7 before starting and then 95 when started from cold? Not sure if these figures are where they should be... What should the correct oil pressure formula be when setting up in the config software? Scott Quote
Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO Posted July 9, 2017 Posted July 9, 2017 Hi Scott, that sounds like it was reading correctly! My formula is: Quote
Scotty72 Posted July 9, 2017 Author Posted July 9, 2017 50 minutes ago, IanK said: Hi Scott, that sounds like it was reading correctly! My formula is: Cheers for that Will get the formula sent over to the dash when I've fitted the new sender. Fingers crossed! So once I have it working, what is a normal reading? Quote
CraigHew Posted July 9, 2017 Posted July 9, 2017 1 hour ago, Scotty72 said: So once I have it working, what is a normal reading? 2 Quote
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