Damned poxy ignition keys

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

Lovely day again today, so thought I'd use the Westfield for an errand this morning.

All ready to head back, sat in the car park, go to put the key in the ignition and got the dreaded "mushy" feeling I've been half expecting. Tried to, very carefully insert it and turn it, but no dice, with a jangle, the key ring falls to the car floor, but no ignition key! 

The metal blade is now firmly in the ignition barrel, but the plastic fob has broken up, just like the first key did.

Thank goodness I've got tools in the car, had to use a pair of pliers on the broken off stub of the key to turn the key and start the car, (and later to turn it off).

So that's it, officially both my ignition keys are f@@@@d      

 

Edited May 25, 2017 by Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary
Oops, beat the swear filter..

[Wilfman]

When I bought mine I only had one so got local locksmith to cut me another.  

Replacement seems a lot stronger than the original - Silca branded. 

Your keys must get jiggled a lot with all the change in your pockets although some say you are unable to get your short arms in those deep pockets when you are standing by the bar!!!

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

That's the problem with this brand of key, you don't seem to be able to get replacements, tried for months after the first one broke.

They look very similar to a lot of standard BL blanks, but aren't quite the same.

[DonPeffers]

Same happened to my keys and I couldn't trace anyone who could cut a replacement. The factory seems to be the best chance.

My solution is daft but it works. I coated the plastic fob in JBWeld epoxy with the metal key shoved back into its original fob slot (with some epoxy) and when dried (say 24 hrs) there is a useable and unbreakable fob. Just overlap a small amount of epoxy onto the metal key but not going too far down the key otherwise it might not fit in the ignition.

Heath Robinson stuff I know.

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

Soft brass key blades too, so the old weld a washer on technique doesn't quite work the same!

Might just try the JB weld trick for a temporary solution.

 

[DonPeffers]

My JBWeld bodge was done Summer 2014 and still ok.

[Wilfman]

7 hours ago, Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary said:

That's the problem with this brand of key, you don't seem to be able to get replacements, tried for months after the first one broke.

They look very similar to a lot of standard BL blanks, but aren't quite the same.

Lock-tec in Northwich did mine (think they are a national company). Sure he said the blank was Land Rover although he did have to look through a few catalogues before deciding. 

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

My other key, the first one that broke has done as many miles on its own as it did in the Westfield, I swear!

All the local locksmiths have had it, and two of them have hawked it around all their suppliers, everyone looks at it and tells me yes we can do that, it's either this one or that one, and then when they get them side by side, admit that they're slightly different and not compatible.

Unfortunately, the third locksmith that was supposed to have given it to his rep to id, lost the damn thing, so now I don't even have a broken spare.

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

Mind you, I'll give Lock-Tec a try, I live in hope. Must be an idiot, but keep thinking it can't be that difficult...

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

And if that doesn't work, I'll have to replace the steering lock/ignition barrel assembly. 

[TableLeg]

Probably all been seen before so apologies if this is is old news.

Any of these any good?

http://www.keys4classics.com/html/Mini_all.html

http://www.keykingsupplies.co.uk/classic-car-keys-68-c.asp

http://www.key-men.com/

https://www.replacementkeys.co.uk/vehicle/classic-car

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

I'll have a compare! Thanks.

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

17 hours ago, Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Secretary said:

And if that doesn't work, I'll have to replace the steering lock/ignition barrel assembly. 

Well, it didn't work. The plastic just starte going in another spot. It's possible I could have re stuck it and added more JB weld, but unfortunately I drop kicked the fob down the garden and lost it

So I took the upper steering column out and drilled off the old lock. (After removing the dash, unfastening the scuttle, cutting away the silicon etc, so that the scuttle would lift up enough to slide the column out.)

Interesting to see that the old ignition/lock I bought (not that old, but from before these troublesome last few years) is so much smoother in action, and the key slips in and out very easily. oh yes, and it's stamped as a genuine Lucas part, as opposed to the no name pattern copy I removed. Would have probably given that a kicking too, but I'd have broken my toe!

Still lots to put back together, but the column is back in and secured, as is the scuttle. Won't finish tonight though.

most importantly though, I have two keys again!!

[pistonbroke]

 I drop kicked the fob down the garden and lost it 

 

I suspect that was in more ways than one      

 

Would it not have been an easier job to fit a remote starter button and key switch

 

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

It's not an option, I have a somewhat unique, possibly, insurance position and it has several strict clauses that apply to my circumstances. Retaining key/steering lock is part of it along with additional approved immobilization.