Speed sensor

[Quinten]

A while ago I fitted a new ETB speed sensor (replacing the type 9 gearbox sensor which was flaky) on my Westfield supplied uprights and I've only just come to test it.  The sensor is this one and it has a 30mm body.  Unfortunately, the upright is too far from the bolt so that in order for me to get it to sense the bolt, I can not screw on the rear nut.  The end of the sensor body sits flush with the upright rear.

I tried to fabricate a bracket, but the upright blocks so much of the rear of the brake disc that I can not get a decent position where I can still fasten the bracket.

I looked at the diff to see if I can possibly relocate it there, but I've got no bracket location anywhere near it, so whatever I would have to fabricate would be quite significant.

Any ideas/suggestions?

 

[Kit Car Electronics]

something like this maybe?

[Quinten]

The problem with the bracket on that side is that it brings the sensor further away from the bolt, not closer.  And I tried the bracket on the other side of the upright (so same location, but closer to brake disc) and then I can no longer fasten the bracket to the upright  

[Thrustyjust]

Logic says you make a brake like a 'Z' so you can make it fit closer to the disc. You have a decent hole to bolt the braket to. Go up, fold over the top of the upright and then at a point bend it vertical again, drill a hole in it and fit the sensor. Alternatively , undo the bolts and use socket cap bolts M10 and lock washers . Will then come closer to the sensor.

[Quinten]

I think you over estimate my ability to remove the brake/upright assembly  

The Z bracket *may* be an option, but the upright is 'wavy' shaped, so I will have to see how low I can get the shape so it will still be able to fit the sensor

[BenD]

Could you not glue some magnets on the heads of the bolts. And leave your sensor where it is 

[Quinten]

I don't think the magnets will hold on my bolts due to the condition they are in.  And there is so little access to clean things properly, at best they'd survive a single rotation

 

More googling turned up 

which shows how long ago I was planning it all...   in fact, so long ago, I'd completely forgotten about it  

 

Maybe I should look at the method @Welly Jen has followed and first fill the hole and then re-tap it.

[shrops-paul]

4 hours ago, Quinten Uijldert - Northants AO said:

I think you over estimate my ability to remove the brake/upright assembly  

I've been so impressed with the amount, type and complexity of the work you have undertaken. A whole engine swap!  As a complete novice, you are my inspiration to 'have a go'. I'm sure you can do it

or just use your phone as a speedo

 

 

[Deanspoors]

What about boring the hole so the nut sinks into the hole? You should be able to get a boring bit cheap enough of eBay and it would look neat. Something like this... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/A-Pilot-Slotting-Tool-Counterbore-Mould-End-Mill-Cutter-Solid-Slot-Drill-Bit-BG-/291905752788?var=&hash=item43f6f04ed4:m:mqcrEzr1MLML4zIUadrK0wQ

[Quinten]

5 hours ago, Deanspoors said:

What about boring the hole so the nut sinks into the hole? You should be able to get a boring bit cheap enough of eBay and it would look neat. Something like this... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/A-Pilot-Slotting-Tool-Counterbore-Mould-End-Mill-Cutter-Solid-Slot-Drill-Bit-BG-/291905752788?var=&hash=item43f6f04ed4:m:mqcrEzr1MLML4zIUadrK0wQ

Now that's a thought.  I've never seen those type of drills, but they look mighty useful.  Cheers!

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

Just a point, but those don't look like drills, they look like slot cutting end mills, as well as counter bores, which work in a very different way to drills and are normally used in a milling machine.

Worth checking with the supplier that they have straight shanks, and can be used in a drill chuck.

You might be able to drill a square rebated hole around an existing hole with one, but it could go very badly wrong!

The usual problems with milling tools like this is that they're not always designed to be held in a drill chuck, and are often very hard, so can be tricky to hold securely. Additionally, they tend to pull themselves into the work piece quite aggressively, not an issue in a milling machine, where they're used quite differently much of the time, but I wouldn't use on in a drill press, as I it can pull the chuck out of the taper fitting. A hand drill, provided you can stop it cutting too deeply, would probably be a safer option. But you may get a lot of chatter using one in a drill. Test on something scrap before using on the upright!

 

[Quinten]

Cheers @Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - WSCC AO Rep, it's just another avenue to explore for me at the moment.

[BenD]

the linked cutters are counterbores. they will cut fine in a drill as long as hole in ht epart is the right size for the counterbore.

ie the ones linked id assume that the m8.3x13.4 is the clearance drill size and the slot cutting size as they are designed for cap head screws not hex head. also they are all non standard sizes a standard m8 counter bore would be 8.5x14.

[TableLeg]

23 hours ago, Kit Car Electronics said:

something like this maybe?

Could you do the same as Mike here but fit the bracket on the outside instead of inside? It would move the bracket closer by the thickness of the steering hub.

[Quinten]

55 minutes ago, TableLeg said:

Could you do the same as Mike here but fit the bracket on the outside instead of inside? It would move the bracket closer by the thickness of the steering hub.

Yes, but

23 hours ago, Quinten Uijldert - Northants AO said:

The problem with the bracket on that side is that it brings the sensor further away from the bolt, not closer.  And I tried the bracket on the other side of the upright (so same location, but closer to brake disc) and then I can no longer fasten the bracket to the upright  

 

 

Although today I glued a nut to the bracket (just so it doesnt fall off, its not meant to be structural) so hopefully I will be able to get a bolt in and a spanner on the nut to fasten it all.