Great Idea - Bolt on S2000 Sump Baffle

[Chrisn01]

Hiya Guys

 

Stumbled across this on the S2Ki forum and thought what a great idea it was and no welding required :0)

 

http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/1159032-ballade-sports-00-09-honda-s2000-bolt-in-oil-pan-baffle/

[Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO]

Nice idea. Have you seen a price?

[6carjon]

Website shows $150 if you can import it without duty ?

[Peter (Monty)]

Nice solution, shame the price isn't a little lower

[CraigHew]

Ballade are notoriously expensive, then there's shipping and import duty.....

[Stu Faulkner]

Thats just the picture I have been looking for.

 

 

The pressure relief valve sticks when I start from cold giving me over 6Bar of pressure until it unsticks after about 30 seconds.

It lives in the allen head bolt on the side of the pump just after the strainer. I knew it was there its just that I have never seen a picture.

A job for winter..

[Chrisn01]

$150 dosent sound to bad, well when the pound recovers lol

[Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO]

Thats just the picture I have been looking for.

 

 

The pressure relief valve sticks when I start from cold giving me over 6Bar of pressure until it unsticks after about 30 seconds.

It lives in the allen head bolt on the side of the pump just after the strainer. I knew it was there its just that I have never seen a picture.

A job for winter..

Hi Stu, Is that a real '6 Bar' or a Dash2/WSC Cal 6Bar? What oil grade are you running? Is it a common S2000 problem? I'm 99% sure you should be able to get the sump off without taking the engine out.

[Peter (Monty)]

Provided you can get at the lowest two clutch housing bolts (I don't know how close the chassis hoop is).

[Stu Faulkner]

It's six bar on the Guage but it's anyone's guess what that translates to.

I don't know who else has had this problem and the internet is a bit light on info.

I think the sump will drop off.

[Ian Kinder (Bagpuss) - Joint Peak District AO]

Provided you can get at the lowest two clutch housing bolts (I don't know how close the chassis hoop is).

This pic I took during my Geo setup, say's yes! 

[Thrustyjust]

If you have to remove the sump, then you may as well save some money and get the standard Westfield plate tig'd in. I was lucky in knowing someone that tigs, but I am sure £20 cash would have done the same at a welders shop.

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

...but then there's always the risk of heat distortion.

That said, I had a temp sender boss welded in to, so I'd still be needing a visit to the local TIG welding expert if I needed to change sumps.

[Thrustyjust]

...but then there's always the risk of heat distortion.

That said, I had a temp sender boss welded in to, so I'd still be needing a visit to the local TIG welding expert if I needed to change sumps.

Really  Dave ? On a sump thats 10 mm thick ! Tig gives localised heat. The plate welds in the lower area of the sump, so it wont distort the face that bolts to the block. As for the sender for oil temp, cant you use the sump plug. Drill a hole and tap the centre and screw the sender in ? All you would need to to was pull the wire off to undo the plug on oil changes.

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

It was the TIG specialist that warned me of the risks, I'm not contradicting him, I have no experience of TIG welding!

I know a few have done it, but for road use, I wouldn't have the sender in the sump plug, too low and vulnerable. Andy's already managed to damage his standard sump plug, and that's not made of soft brass.

Plus as a regular to shows/events I often find myself having to cross and park in grass field parking areas, it's not always nice and short and I'm not comfortable with the wiring being quite so low as it would be in the sump plug.