Kezman Posted May 12, 2016 Share Posted May 12, 2016 Just a quickie and of a simple nature so I have posted in the start line. My small 8mm ID rubber rad pipe that returns to the expansion bottle has become a liability. It keeps splitting right at the barbed joint of the rad. Here it takes a tighter turn and, as it turns It has flirting contact with the inside of the nose cone before it straightens out. Wether this is anything to do with it but to be fair most of the run is showing signs of perish so it's time to replace. In my case it is a complete single run all the way to the ex tank so I roughly need on it's way to 2m....so for example will this link below be fine? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-Ply-Silicone-Heater-Hoses-Rubber-Coolant-Silicon-Radiator-Pipe-/190885058500?var=&hash=item2c71a2d7c4:m:mmfzY3rwvE_mZjRglOz2ibw It's only 1 ply, I could get a thicker 3 ply but it only seems to come in 1m lengths and it would be simpler as one complete run rather than introducing joiners etc.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pistol Pete Posted May 12, 2016 Share Posted May 12, 2016 I would try your local motor factors, they should have a role of it you can buy off of. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhett Turner - Black Country AO Posted May 12, 2016 Share Posted May 12, 2016 If you want thicker stuff then try here, I replaced all my hoses with hose provided by them. I think there is even a discount code available Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kezman Posted May 12, 2016 Author Share Posted May 12, 2016 I suppose that thicker 3 ply would handle that tight turn from the rad next to inside wall of nose cone better. Do you guys typically use 3 ply? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman Posted May 12, 2016 Share Posted May 12, 2016 All of mine are three ply, but it's probably not vital on that hose. What I would do, regardless of what ply you eventually pick, is to just sleeve the pipe where it bends near the nose. I tend to use the split convoluted tube you can get for wiring these days, but in the past I've just cut a length of silicon hose to fit over the hose to be protected, then split the new bit of hose end to end so it'll slip over the original, before tie wrapping it in place. On my old car, where I had a particularly tight bend for the 8mm hose to go through, I actually got an 8mm 90° bend, then coupled it to the main 8mm hose! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kezman Posted May 12, 2016 Author Share Posted May 12, 2016 Good advice Dave... I'll follow that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SootySport Posted May 12, 2016 Share Posted May 12, 2016 Just having a new hose will help. I can't think of a tight bend in that length you mention. Mine goes from the top rear of the rad straight to the expansion bottle with a tee in front of the thermostat housing, which goes to the inlet manifold. Silcone hoses don't lend themselves very well to bends, I have found. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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