Downlights with no roof space

[Mark (smokey mow)]

I may be wrong but I presume you have a steel in the ridge, its my understanding that that should be fire proofed so if you haven't protected it with paint or another method you will still need fire rated downlighting & I don't think you can get directional downlight which fire rated.

As I said above. There is no requirement for fire resistance to a roof, only for floors and/or the structure that supports a floor.

[Deanspoors]

I may be wrong but I presume you have a steel in the ridge, its my understanding that that should be fire proofed so if you haven't protected it with paint or another method you will still need fire rated downlighting & I don't think you can get directional downlight which fire rated.

 

I'm planning on fireboarding the whole ceiling which seems a cheaper and easier rather than boxing in the RSJ. There are directional downlights available which are fire rated. http://www.cp-lighting.co.uk/SYLFire-Tilting-Steel-12V

 

As long as I can spread the light out around the room enough I will be happy.

 

Have you thought about some perimeter lighting?

Form a 'pelmet' along the two long sides then drop a rope light or strip LEDs or something similar along them  ,

 

That's an idea I'll have a look into for some secondary lighting  

[Deanspoors]

....or as Mark as said, no need to fireproof

[Darrell O'Neill]

As I said above. There is no requirement for fire resistance to a roof, only for floors and/or the structure that supports a floor.

I'm not going to disagree with you, in fact I have never even looked into the building regs, BUT I have been requested by building control to prove that ALL recessed lighting has fire rated fittings or hoods. So as a matter of course I (and many other sparks) always fit only fire rated fittings.

Often it will be specced on the drawings that they are, even where there is no floor above.

[Darrell O'Neill]

http://www.cp-lighting.co.uk/SYLFire-Tilting-Steel-12V"]http://www.cp-lighting.co.uk/SYLFire-Tilting-Steel-12V[/url

How much? Lol bearing in mind you'll need transformers (which often fail and are the bain of my life)

12v low voltage is old hat now. You're far better going with GU10 240v with a quality LED lamp

https://www.yesss.co.uk/light-fittings-c8/indoor-lighting-c1566/downlights-c1676/nvc-quebec-50w-fire-rated-downlight-gimbal-no-lamp-white-nqe-1x50-g-wh-p23071

Extremely bright 500lm 7w led

https://www.yesss.co.uk/lamps-tubes-c7/led-lamps-c954/gu10-c1438/luxna-lighting-7w-led-gu10-white-lxledgu10-7nw-p24567

[Darrell O'Neill]

It's difficult to tell from the pics, but there does look like there's a good height to the room so lights fitted in the horizontal will spread well.

Depending on the visual look you want and what the room is used for something like this would work too.

https://www.yesss.co.uk/indoor-c1383/nvc-winchester-1500lm-led-downlight-diffuser-nwt1500-led-840-p20376

If you go for normal downlights, a pattern something like 1200mm apart with a good lamp works well.

We recently done something similar to yours and a '5 light pattern' with the outside fittings angled to the edges of the room and a centre fitting straight down worked really well. The room we done was a lounge diner, so we did have 10 fittings (2x patterns of five) with the 'outside' ones and centre ones switched seperetly. This gave a ambient feel and a 'full on' option. We did also use dimmable lamps and dimmer switches.

This particular install also had 5amp sockets installed in the corner of the rooms switched from the door light switch.... A system I'm a fan of where the client like to use table lamps etc.

(Just a few ideas, your sparks should be able to advise)

[Deanspoors]

thanks Darrell some good ideas there. I'm going to be buying the downlights, with my friend (a spark) to assist me in installing all the electrics. So it's mainly on me to plan how I want it, where I want sockets, etc. I think I have a good idea what I am going to do now, my next challenge is deciding how I'm going to heat the area. Swaying towards a split unit air con/heater as the current boiler stuggles to heat the house as it is, without trying to heat another 40sqm. or 2x 2kw electric heater panels, but this may be expensive to run.

 

Dean

[Mark (smokey mow)]

BUT I have been requested by building control to prove that ALL recessed lighting has fire rated fittings or hoods. So as a matter of course I (and many other sparks) always fit only fire rated fittings.

I won’t disagree with you either and it’s one of the reasons why I try to take the time to explain the reasoning behind certain regulations as I can appreciate as a home owner or contractor it’s frustrating having unnecessary costs or additional time on a job.

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

Thanks for the info Mark, really helpful to know.