Engine building for Dummies

[Quinten]

I'm likely going to step well out of my comfort zone this year and replace my oily Xflow for a Zetec. I've never (ever) done anything like it, but how hard can it be?

That brings me onto my first question. What sort of engine stand should I be looking at for a Zetec. I would like it to be movable, as I have to juggle space in the garage a bit. Also, how does one get the engine onto the stand in the first place? An engine crane? Two burly blokes?

[AdamR]

I have a cheapy one like this, does the job perfectly:

 

 

The four arms that attach to the block via long bolts are adjustable, so you can get nearly all engines on without an issue.

 

Getting the engine up there... crane is advisable, but a couple of blokes can do it - attach the arms and plate first, then you can just slide it home when it's up to height!

[Kyle]

Good advice, two men can just about lift a bare 4 cyl, two of us lifted mine on with the plate attached first as above.

Are you actually rebuilding an engine too?

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

Personally I prefer the more stable heavy duty engine stands, they feel a lot less likely to tip when doing up/undoing some of the more stubborn bolts and nuts. The three "legged" type are easier to get the engine onto from a typical engine crane though.

 

I bought one of the cheap, £35 ones off eBay as a spare to hold my old engine while I was cleaning up the Honda on my normal engine stand. I'm not sure if I was just unlucky or not, but even greasing the sleeve section that the bit that bolts on to the engine sits in, it was incredibly difficult to rotate with the weight of an XE in it, and almost impossible to rotate the engine back upright. A task that's easy enough with my heavy duty Machine Mart stand.

 

Two people can lift a "dressed" XE, so a (lighter) Zetec shouldn't be a problem, though you're always safer with a crane.

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

Ah, that'll teach me to wander away mid post! Just seen Adam's picture - it's the cheap versions of the stand shown that I had the problems with. My other stand is a Clarke from Machine Mart and has been great.

[Dommo]

I'm using a three legged Clarke effort at the moment. Never think it's going to tip, but do find myself holding a leg to stop it turning whilst I'm undoing the tight bits.

It's served me through three engines so far. The only bit that annoys me as it's very tricky to get to the rear crank seal housing whilst it's on the stand. May lift it onto the bench for that bit this time!

[AdamR]

I'm lucky enough to have an impact gun, so tight bolts don't cause an issue - I can definitely see how a 4-wheeler would be more stable though

 

Good point on the rear crank seal - that's a 'dump it on a bench' job I reckon...

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

Yep, unless you're luck enough to have access to an engine mount adapter - allowing the engine to bolt on sideways, then anything around the rear may have to be done on the bench/floor.

[KugaWestie]

I have one of these, very stable and has served me well on a few engines

http://www.cjautos.eu/1000LBS_ENGINE_STAND_WS02A_p/ws02a.htm

[Quinten]

Thanks guys, I like the look of 4 legs over the look of 3, mainly for stability whilst moving it. Are engines 'top heavy'? I.e., if you wanted to tilt it slightly, would you have to hang on for dear life to stop it from rotating all the way, or are they reasonably balanced? Also, the ones I've seen have a locking pin in the rotating part, so I imagine that the sleeve that goes into it has several holes in it so you can lock it at various angles? May be a stupid question, but I've never been near one of these things, so no idea how they work in practice.

I'm not planning to do a full rebuild on the engine. I'm told the engine turns over freely, and all I am looking to do is clean it up externally, and bolt the parts on that it needs in order to be complete (carbs, exhaust, water and fuel, belts). Anything to make the 'swap' over as simple as possible. I don't have electronics at the moment, so will be going to fit an ECU as well. I know some people love the idea of opening up the head, or anything, but I'd rather not if I can avoid it

[SootySport]

I have the heavy duty Machine Mart stand, wider base and I can stand on it to shift those stubborn nuts/bolts.   Buy a metre  length of  threaded stud with the same size thread as the bellhousing  holes in the engine and loads of large washers and nuts.  You can then cut up the stud into 4 pieces to bolt the engine onto the stand yoke.

[SootySport]

Q,  I can stand on one of the legs of the stand and rotate the engine by myself, it's not that hard to do.

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

Ditto you can rotate the engine by yourself, they do tend to be top heavy on the stand, so a little care is needed at the end or the turn. Yes, they usually have a number of holes to drop a locking pin in to secure it, upright, inverted, or at different steps in-between.

[Olliebeak]

I am also considering changing my mighty crossflow for a Zetec, it would be interesting to know how you get on and what parts you need in addition to the engine e.g carbs,ecu etc etc  It appears that sometimes the add ons cost more than the actual engine. I was considering a 2.0 Zetec with an ignition only ecu and bike carbs, what do others do , views and comments appreciated.

 

On another subject the sump and the sump plug on my crossflow have been damaged in the past and I reluctant to attempt to remove the plug as I cannot get a socket on, I tried molegrips and the plug wouldn't move, don't want to use too much force..Anyone used those small elec pumps that clip to the battery and suck the oil out via the dipstick?

 

Thanks    

[Quinten]

Great, thanks for confirming the rotation point guys.

Olliebeak, I'm under no illusion that the bits I will have to buy will cost a fair few bob, especially as I need to go the ECU route too. But it is probably cheaper than selling the car to get the performance I want With regards to your sump, an oil pump (like a Pela 6000) will work just as well on removing the oil from above as doing it from below. Some new cars no longer have an accessible sump, and those with engines in boats have been using it for ages!