An excuse to post a photo

[jeff oakley]

Jeff, couldn't you tap the intake manifold tracts and join them to a small tank fed from the crank vent valve?

When you are running TB or multi choke carbs, if you tap just one you alter the air ratio to that cylinder only. SBD do use this method on cars that still have a servo attached.

 

The best way to do it is to tap into each manifold throat and split the pipe so all four are sucking equally. I am not that bothered about a slight weep, it is when it is pouring out that action is needed.

 

As Ash and Crash have said it is usually the joint between the rear crank bearing rather than the seal that leaks.

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

Once the rear bearing cap is assembled, and it's time to fit the sump gasket, run four small beads of sealant round the bottom of the block - you want one small bead to cover each of the joints in the bottom face of the block, so that's two joints at the rear bearing cap and another two where the oil pump to block joints are. It's not necessary to run the sealant all the way round the block or the sump, these four spots will be fine. Careful not to put too much on though, you don't want any squeezing out into the sump, when you fit it.

 

I never tried it, but would have given it a go "next time", if the opportunity had arisen, but a few have recommended just giving the outside surface of the rear oil seal, (where it touches the block/bearing cap) a thin smear of silicon before fitting, just as a belt and braces sealing thing.