Quinten Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 Had my first 'scare' today. Went to work in the westie, and when I returned 8 hours later, it would not start! A fuse which I installed on the starter (I know, i know, don't worry, it's gone now!) had blown for the 2nd time and after I replaced it with a slightly higher amped version, I pressed the starter with great expectation... except it still wouldn't start! Now my starter has always been noisy. Whenever you turned the key it would make a high screeching noise but it never failed to start. Except for today (and probably last week too, but I put it down to the fuse blowing at the time). But today it clicked, then it didn't click, and then it turned over once, and then it started again. Later when I got home I removed the fuse from the equation but the starter exhibited the same behaviour as earlier, so I suspect it is on the way out... or is it? What are people experiences with starters? Are they serviceable, or cheap enough to chuck and replace? Not knowing how old it is, I'm going to assume this is the original starter from when the car was assembled in 1998. If it's a non-servicable item, is there such a thing as a more powerful starter? Always of the opinion that replacing a broken item with a better item is a good investment, but not sure if that applies to these... Sorry for the long story Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Everall Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 Before you mess with the starter I suggest you check the battery and see if it has high enough voltage to turn the starter correctly. Needs to be about 12.7v min Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TableLeg Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 I've seen High Torque starters on both WF online shop http://parts-shop.westfield-sportscars.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=835 And Burton Power http://www.burtonpower.com/edge-gear-reduction-starter-ford-cvh-zetec-e-1-4kw-cf007.html There's an Autoelectric company not far from where I work and they recon both starters and alternators and have been doing so for more than 20 years so yes they can and often do get overhauled. Out starters at work get done there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quinten Posted June 4, 2015 Author Share Posted June 4, 2015 Before you mess with the starter I suggest you check the battery and see if it has high enough voltage to turn the starter correctly. Needs to be about 12.7v min I'll put the V meter on tomorrow and check Best to eliminate that, as not too long ago I thought the battery was flat too... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quinten Posted June 4, 2015 Author Share Posted June 4, 2015 I've seen High Torque starters on both WF online shop http://parts-shop.westfield-sportscars.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=835 And Burton Power http://www.burtonpower.com/edge-gear-reduction-starter-ford-cvh-zetec-e-1-4kw-cf007.html There's an Autoelectric company not far from where I work and they recon both starters and alternators and have been doing so for more than 20 years so yes they can and often do get overhauled. Out starters at work get done there. I've got a Crossflow though, but have seen 3 on Burtons website... not looking forward to those prices though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kit Car Electronics Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 Also sounds like a solenoid fault- they are easily replaceable. Easy to test by bridging the terminals with a big screwdriver ( if you don't mind the sparks!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quinten Posted June 4, 2015 Author Share Posted June 4, 2015 Also sounds like a solenoid fault- they are easily replaceable. Easy to test by bridging the terminals with a big screwdriver ( if you don't mind the sparks!) Not keen on sparks, but where would I find these terminals? From memory I have two large/thick cables (could also be one to the starter, then another to alternator) to the starter and a single thinner 'ignition' wire... or am I barking up the wrong tree? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kit Car Electronics Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 Depends if you have a pre-engaged or Bendix starter. I guess on a x-flow its probably Bendix, so the solenoid is just a relay in the feed to the starter. That would be easy to check as you can bridge the high current posts, also check the contacts are clean and even measure voltage drop across it when you try to crank... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TableLeg Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 I've got a Crossflow though, but have seen 3 on Burtons website... not looking forward to those prices though Ahh sorry my mistake, I read your car details wrong. All good advice however from the guys above X Flow Hi Torque starter http://www.motorsport-tools.com/powerlite-ford-crossflow-kent-x-flow-high-torque-starter-motor.html http://www.burtonpower.com/parts-by-category/ignition-electrical-instrumentation/starter-motors/edge-gear-reduction-starter-x-flow-lotus-twin-cam-bda-cf003-9x1-4kw.html Not cheap 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TAFKARM Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 I dont think you NEED a high torque starter. If the orignal has lasted almost 20 years, just replace like for like... 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyonspride Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 Just to add, don't put too much faith in battery voltage. I replaced mine relatively recently, the old one measured 12.8v after being left over night and struggled to start the car. The new one reads 12.8v after being left over night and has no issue starting the car at all. In fact the old one has been off the car for over 6 months and still measures 12.6v, even my C-Tek battery charger thinks it's perfectly ok, BUT take the vent caps off and the plates are distorted to hell and covered in crap, with gunk floating around in each cell. I would say on a Westfield, if the battery is 4+ years old and struggling, then it's probably no good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SootySport Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 You'll find plenty of reconditioners around, just look up in the phone directory, will come under 'Car Electrical' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Everall Posted June 6, 2015 Share Posted June 6, 2015 To check if the battery is "man enough" get a good battery and using jump leads connected to your existing battery see what happens when you try to start it. If it starts either your battery is goosed or not man enough but that also depends on the alternator charging at around 14v when running Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quinten Posted June 7, 2015 Author Share Posted June 7, 2015 Took the starter off today to confirm how many teeth it has and to note the model number and noticed a lot of oil/grease (well, it *is* an old crossflow after all?!?) between the starter and bell-housing so I cleaned it up and am now wondering if it suffered from bad earthing? Could that be it? There is no separate earth wire on the starter, although one of the terminals is empty (a smaller round terminal) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kit Car Electronics Posted June 7, 2015 Share Posted June 7, 2015 Cool, a pre-engaged starter. The starter earths through the mounting to the bell housing as you noted, so the engine earth strap is important for good starting. The first part of the solenoid movement throws the pinion into the ring, the final part bridges the main 12V motor feed. So you need to look at: 1) voltage at the red/white solenoid feed wire 2) voltage at the M8 terminal attached directly to the motor. To test the motor independently of the solenoid, you can stick a screwdriver across the two large terminals (the sparking test!). This shows if the motor spins when the solenoid is bypassed. Make sure you're in neutral! The armature in the solenoid corrodes and can stick, also the terminals erode inside the solenoid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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