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House lights, 10 volts with light switch off..?


John K

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Ok this is totally a non car post but I am wondering about my house electrics.

I was finalising the cabling to a light fitting before boarding over. I had a temporary chocolate block in place until I was ready to fit the permanent junction box.

I like to make my connections in a junction box rather than in the fitting so each JB has circuit has four cables, circuit in and out, switch and fitting.

I was looking at the supply to the fitting, I tested knowing I had the power on and got 239 volts.

Then I switched off at the wall socket (circuit breaker still on) and got 10 volts, which did surprise me a bit.

And there are no surprises to hear with the circuit breaker off, I got 0 volts.

Why the 10 volts? Is something leaking back somewhere, is this anything to worry about?

Cheers

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what sort of light switch? Fancy touch one or electronic dimmer or remote controlled on?

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Could be just EMI pickup from an adjacent cable. Try testing the current to ground / neutral it should ne next to naff all. If so then nothing to worry about.

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EMI... Electromagnetic Induction..?

Never thought to check the current.

Like Dad used to say, "it's the volts that jolts, but it's the mills that kills"

I'll check tomorrow, I've had a few sherbets so I think I will leave the lecy alone for tonight...

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have you got your volt meter thingy set to the right setting?  I was up a tree once and thought the pole said 110V but it was 11Kv - bad mistaka to make :-) 

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I'm not insured to give advice on lethal electricity voltages, but if you can't smell burning, you should be OK, for a while anyway.

 

I thought high voltage resistance checks were normal for new wiring.

 

Have you removed the switch to see if it makes a difference.  Its in the club rules somewhere - just because its new doesn't mean it works

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LOL, that's the difference between tingly and crispy...

It's quite a good meter (thanks work) and it auto ranges by default.

I would swear blind it was 10v but I will double check tomorrow.

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Remember your talking about AC voltage, live and neutral are actually both giving you a sine wave, they're just 90 degrees (IIRC) out of phase with each other, neutral is connected to earth/ground away from your house. So ground actually carries a voltage, you just never see it because you always measure in relation to ground (so it would appear as zero volts).

 

If you measure a conductor that's not grounded or connected to a supply (ie floating), then given the above and due to the extremely high resistance in a digital multimeter you will most likely see a voltage. If you use classic analogue meter, you'd probably not see anything at all.

 

Also if you'd got say a CFL bulb connected, that would hold a small voltage when turned off (a bit like a capacitor) and with no route to ground you would see a voltage when using a DMM.

 

I would advise checking all your wiring again though.

I have a pocket DMM with me right now, if I let the leads hang freely it reads 7v and then starts to creep up to about 60v, if I then stroke the leads with my free hand, I can get it to read 600v.

If you have a poor connection somewhere, then your effectively doing the same.

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Ah... The bulb is a fluorescent one in the utility room.

And it was on seconds before I took the reading as I was testing with it on and off.

Thanks to all for the comments and replies.

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Even a cheap crappy DMM has an input impedance in the megohms on a voltage range, so a 10V reading in that situation is almost certainly going to be induced voltage and nowt to fret about. No substitute for a 500v leakage test though, as Darrell quite rightly says.

 

 

...and don't forget, you need to provide inspection access for those JBs.....

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'Most' of the JBs for the downstairs circuit are under a liftable chip board panel in the upstairs hall way.

 

If I know I will need access in the future I cut the T&G of the chipboard in that area.

 

The upstairs circuit are all in the attic space and again all the chip board there has no T&G

 

There are two under the box room floor for kitchen and utility room. Again the board can be lifted but it will be a bit more agg.

 

Cos I came from a line diagram background I have actually drawn circuit diagrams with JB positions on it. And I've even labelled every cable in and out to each JB. And flipping glad I did as when I go back to a job 6 months later I have no idea what goes where until I look at the diagram / labels...

 

Truth be told, knowing what I know now, I would have used those 'maintenance free' connectors as I am a little worried about the screw down terminals working free over time. Not sure if this is an actual or theoretical risk designed to keep manufacturers (and Sparks, sorry Chaps :) ) in business...

 

It is a very simple setup so hopefully not saving up too many problems for the future.

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Could be your meter.

 

I'm sure UK adopted EU voltage sometime ago and therefore supply voltage should be 230v +/- 3%.  If your meter is showing 240 and 10 then that would indicate meter problem.

 

BTW is it an analogue or digital meter?

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No, it's 230 Volt +10/-6%

 

However, that was pretty much a paper exercise only, as note how the upper tolerance conveniently means we could leave the AC distribution at 240 Volts without being in breach!

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