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New car update


andrewmais

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A quick update as it’s been a while since I last posted on here.  So, sold The Wasp – 2001, 1.6 CVH, SEW after 2 months ownership once I had caught the bug and so spent a bit more and bought a very tidy 2004 1.8 Zetec SEIW and I love it !

 

Have already been out loads in the last month as been lucky with the weather and so not had much time to post, however after a good few hundred miles a few questions if I may? In order of importance.

 

  • Lowered floors – Im 6”5 and 15 stone and although in the race seats it isn’t a huge problem, I slightly protrude the roll bar (standard one) and as always in these cars, my eye line is pretty high.  I don’t want to remove the runners as then the seats aren’t moveable for when others drive.  So what about lowered floors, I like the idea of sitting lower, having a touch more room around the tunnel and steering wheel and being below the roll bar with a better view.  How much does this cost and where can I get it done preferably as near to me in Bucks/Berks/Oxon as possible?  Has anyone else paid for this change ?
  • Suspension and Rigidity - The wasp had a race chassis and seemed a bit firmer in the ride, I find the new one can be a bit more jittery and can sometimes feel a bit light at the front over bumps.  I have all round adjustable shocks, is it worth adjusting them?  The old one also had ARBs front and back, would this help if I had them fitted to this car?
  • Finally does anyone know any good Westfield/Kit Car specialists in Bucks/Berks/Oxon, I live in Princes Risborough.  My local garage MOTd the last one, but they don’t have much, if any Kit car expertise.

 

Look forward to your thoughts

 

Thanks all.

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Congrats Andy, glad to hear you're enjoying the new motor!

Can't help with 1 and 3, but I had the same issues as you with the ride. Softened the rear by two clicks each and the front by one click each and that's perfect for the road. Also would be worth getting a full geo done, money well spent.

Russ and I are doing Bedford Autodrome next Monday with circuit days if you're up for it?

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Thanks Barney I have just sent you a PM on no.2 rather than clogging up the main forum here.

 

So I will adjust the Shocks but does anyone have any thoughts on the ARBs and points 1&3?

 

Thanks all

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Shocks update - I had a play and found that the rear shocks were on the furthest click setting to offer the hardest ride - which explains a lot!

So I took off 3 clicks to the rear to soften this up a bit and reset the fronts back to 0 then counted 8 clicks in which seemed to be where they were roughly before, but I had lost count on either side so started again to get back to the 8.

And I have to say that this had a transformed it, I'm just a bit embarrassed I hadn't thought of this myself, my last Westy didn't have adjustable shocks tho, so that's my excuse !!

On the ride out I stiffened up the front a bit more - a click back each and will monitor that but the car is now riding the bumps and is so much more pleasureable (if that's possible) to drive.

A huge difference for such a tiny adjustment.

Many thanks to Barny for his help here.

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Update on 1 also - Spoke to Westfield they reckon about a £900 to supply and fit lowered floors due to complications with fuel and brake lines etc.

At that cost I will make do I think !

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You can always go for the RAC roll bar, won't help your height vs screen but is higher than the standard hoop, and safer too!

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I think you'll still be sitting higher than the RAC rollbar,  the MSA version http://parts-shop.westfield-sportscars.co.uk/body-fittings-trim-rollbars?product_id=706 would be better suited as it's higher still.   As you are 6'5" you should make friends with Quinten and share ideas on how to make room for yourselves in the cockpit.

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Thanks Barny / Sooty - I'm going to go for a higher roll bar as this could be a big safety issue for me and lowered floors will cost a fortune.

How easy are these to fit yourself? Cutting slots in the boot box concerns me and will I have the correct bolt holes already in place given I have the standard roll bar now or will I need to drill into the chassis ?

Cheers

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I changed my standard roll bar for an RAC one, and on my car the new bar fitted straight on using 3 already drilled bolt holes.

 

The old style bar only had one bolt each side so would be next to useless if you needed it.

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Thanks Jocker - does that include the rear facing struts as well or just the main bar?

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