FILFAN Posted March 26, 2014 Share Posted March 26, 2014 I'm running about 4.5 in my setup Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman Posted March 26, 2014 Share Posted March 26, 2014 I ran about 4 litres, around a 240 ish bhp. Only oil temp problem I ever had was getting temperature into it. BUT, you can't compare the DS system in the new engine to the SBD/QED system with it's three stage Pace pump. (Or the other three stage pumps, to be honest). It's one of those set ups designed for a specific competition car, where it's basic design and layout is enforced by the rules and car packaging and it's just a case of getting as good a result as you can. I wouldn't vary the set up too much as it's got a reputation for being a bit awkward to get working right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cszjrh Posted March 29, 2014 Author Share Posted March 29, 2014 Old engine removed today and looks like I've probably found the root cause of the engine failure... Removed all that "Liquid Gasket" from the oil pick-up pipe strainer... Clearly had too much applied at some point before I bought it. Also confirmed that the oil sensor wasn't wired... Oh well. Onwards and upwards. Two challenges now before I can get the new engine dropped in: 1. As I thought I'll need a custom LHS engine mount making. My car currently has the bottom half of the engine mounts welded directly onto the chassis so I'm assuming I'll need those cutting out and a mounting plate welding in instead. 2. The 3 way connector for my front brakes has been mounted to the chassis directly behind my radiator and will need to move to make room for my oil tank. I'm assuming when this is done we need to keep the left and right pipes the same lengths to ensure brake balance? Cheers, John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stu999 Posted March 29, 2014 Share Posted March 29, 2014 2. Nope, don't worry about it - won't make any difference fella. .. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cszjrh Posted March 30, 2014 Author Share Posted March 30, 2014 Ok thanks. That will make things a bit easier. If there's enough slack in the pipes might it be possible to relocate the T connector with the pipes and fluid in situ? Or is it a case of having to replace with new? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FILFAN Posted March 30, 2014 Share Posted March 30, 2014 if your not moving it far its possible to do aslong as you dont crease the pipe. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cszjrh Posted March 30, 2014 Author Share Posted March 30, 2014 Ok cool I'll give it a go. Any helpful hints/tips or is it just a case of taking my time and trying to minimise the stress on the pipes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FILFAN Posted March 30, 2014 Share Posted March 30, 2014 just try to bend it along tour thumb in gradual stages. or only an idea but can someone apply pressure to the pedal at the same time which in theory would help stop it creasing. just an idea though but wear goggles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman Posted March 30, 2014 Share Posted March 30, 2014 Depends on the brake pipes that you've got fitted, if they're the Westfield supplied coated steel: You should, with care, get away with tightening existing bends, adding new, and with extreme care tweaking the direction of existing bends a little. But be very, very careful if you try straightening out any bends, or anything that might put a twist in them. The Factory pipes don't like being bent in one direction then the other to often - they work harden and fatigue FAST. Sometimes you think you've got away with it, but have left a weak spot that then goes with the slightest provocation. It's usually where there's been tighter bends that you try and re bend that causes it though. The copper mix brake line you buy in rolls on the other hand, will take much more handling - still bad practice to bend and re-bend it too often, but it will take more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darve Posted March 30, 2014 Share Posted March 30, 2014 I take the view that if I don't feel 100% happy with a safety critical component - I replace If after giving it a bit of re-bending you have any doubt in your own mind about the longevity of the pipe - replace don't want to be flying along and have a doubt in your mind about the brakes (esp fronts) 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Colonial Posted March 30, 2014 Share Posted March 30, 2014 All the good advice above PLUS bearing in mind how cheap it is to replace brake pipe compared to how expensive a brake failure might be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cszjrh Posted March 30, 2014 Author Share Posted March 30, 2014 Thanks Daves. Yeah completely agree. I'll have a quick go at a "move and make do" but if it isn't easy I'll replace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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