Frecala g3 and g10

[dombanks]

What's the difference. I'm using the yellow bottled stuff not the black bottles in halfrauds

I sort of thought g3 would get out scratches Up to a point from 1500 grit and g10 would bring the shine up

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

Less clear than it used to be, I'm afraid.

 

originally, G3 was a course cutting compound, ideal as you say for taking  out cutting marks from around 1500 grit or finer. It's quite old technology now, compared to newer cutting compounds from other makers.

 

G10 was a fine finishing compound, ideal for getting swirls and similar blemishes out, and for removing the fine cutting marks left by G3.

 

Unfortunately, Farecla G3 seems to have become the "DeWalt" of the cutting compound industry, a well known, well recommended trade product, that has become popular with the general public. As a result, a quick look A&R Farecla's web site suggests that not only do they have the Halfords stocked G3 stuff, they also seem to have a range of grades all called G3   

 

For what it's worth though, I'll probably give the 3M compounds a try when I run out. They seem to have shifted the goalposts on.

[Marto303]

FWIW

 

The only product i've used for years for polishing up after a 1500 flat is called Presta Ultra Cutting Creme, used on a lambs wool mop, fast, clean and no fillers so cuts back to remove flatting marks rather than filling them and then washing away later, revealing them again.

 

Then to finish Presta Chroma 1500 this gives the final high gloss glaze

 

I've worked in this trade 33 years and this stuff is the best I've ever used, available from your local refinish suppliers I would think, if not I use a supplier in London, details available if needed.

 

Just my personal opinion though 

[dombanks]

The reason I ask is I had some bird poo marks on my car (polish and stuff didn't work) and some one suggested g3 I also had some g10

I used the g3 and it worked super. Applied by had with a wet cloth. As it was worked back and forth it went from gritty paste to a milky liquid. The result was no marks and a shiney ish surface. So I tried the g10 and it was horrid. It left the bonet of the z4 dull and matt .. I thought holy-f*****-Jesus-Christ-on-a-bike what have I done so I used the g3 again and took my time and got a near brilliant finish. A bit of black hole/exp sealant/natty blue and you'd never know

I expected the g10 would have got more scratches out

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

Strange one, doesn't sound right, but I can't say I've ever used G10.

[Norman Verona]

I polished me car with local supermarket stuff the other day. I now need something to get the dried in polish off. 

[Marto303]

The reason I ask is I had some bird poo marks on my car (polish and stuff didn't work) and some one suggested g3 I also had some g10

I used the g3 and it worked super. Applied by had with a wet cloth. As it was worked back and forth it went from gritty paste to a milky liquid. The result was no marks and a shiney ish surface. So I tried the g10 and it was horrid. It left the bonet of the z4 dull and matt .. I thought holy-f*****-Jesus-Christ-on-a-bike what have I done so I used the g3 again and took my time and got a near brilliant finish. A bit of black hole/exp sealant/natty blue and you'd never know

I expected the g10 would have got more scratches out

Both of those products are made to be used for machine polishing.

Farecla G3 should be applied to a sponge mop head that's been dampend with a little water then work say 1/4 of a panel at a time, it starts off quite course and brakes down as you use it. At first it cuts back the paint removing some of the flatting marks, then as it breaks down and dries it fills the minute scratches that are left and glazes over.

G10 is a final glaze and again really should be used with a machine, this time applied very lightly to a whole panel and worked lightly with the machine polisher, this has very little cutting ability and really just finishes off filling and glazing to a higher gloss level.

As for your bird poo well that's very acidic and will probably have eaten right through the paintwork so very difficult to get rid of.

I would personally have nibbed off any high spots with 1500 wet n dry then polished back up with a mini air polisher, it very hard to get the same results working these products by hand they require the speed of the machine to cut and generate heat to dry and glaze IMHO.

[dombanks]

marto i

 

Strange one, doesn't sound right, but I can't say I've ever used G10.

 

i think that ive got a hookey pot of it. it came from a decent looking ebay shop but was only a small pot so i think its any old crap. i wont be using it again as i chucked it away. the g3 on the other hand was just a marto said. broke down as i used it.

 

I polished me car with local supermarket stuff the other day. I now need something to get the dried in polish off. 

 

tell me about it! i was trying to multi task the 3 bits so i did sections at a time staggered. the nattys blue went on a treat and dried to a haze but i left it too long trying to get other bits done. dired to cake more like! my got that took effort to get off but the car looked good after. even the mrs commented....

 

Both of those products are made to be used for machine polishing.
Farecla G3 should be applied to a sponge mop head that's been dampend with a little water then work say 1/4 of a panel at a time, it starts off quite course and brakes down as you use it. At first it cuts back the paint removing some of the flatting marks, then as it breaks down and dries it fills the minute scratches that are left and glazes over.

G10 is a final glaze and again really should be used with a machine, this time applied very lightly to a whole panel and worked lightly with the machine polisher, this has very little cutting ability and really just finishes off filling and glazing to a higher gloss level.

As for your bird poo well that's very acidic and will probably have eaten right through the paintwork so very difficult to get rid of.
I would personally have nibbed off any high spots with 1500 wet n dry then polished back up with a mini air polisher, it very hard to get the same results working these products by hand they require the speed of the machine to cut and generate heat to dry and glaze IMHO.

 

im not confident enough to use a machine yet although i want to give it a go as it took hours to do the 3 layers on sunday evening (was thining i would use it on her indoors pug106 first as a test). i used the g3 like you said (and the instructions) with a wetted cloth and like you said it broke down nicely. it was pretty easy to use. the car is parked a lot under trees i cant really do much about it and they are filled with damn magpies so im always getting the stuff off. I wouldnt be happy or comfortable with using any kind of paper on the car and i dont have a machine so i thought i would give it a go by hand and then if it didnt work then take it somewhere for some one who knows what they are doing to sort it. they were not that bad but the Z4 has a massive flat bonnet so any marks show easilly. by hand was enough to get them off this time and probably did litte damage to the surface if i wasnt working it enough.

[ALLADDIN]

tool station do an electric budget mop at about 40 quid.   just stay away from edges etc and keep it wet

[Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman]

Yeah, a hookey pot of the G10 was my suspicion.

 

As Martin said, for real cutting/finishing power they really need to be machine applied. Though with lots of elbow grease and better still the right mop, you can get reasonable results in small areas with G10. (Wouldn't like to hand do a large panel, consistency might be tricky).

 

(You can get hand held versions of the same sort of sponge mops you'd use in a machine, I've found these really help "work" the G3 better than just using a cloth).

 

IPA is good for getting wax off, though you might struggle if it's really thickly caked on. Panel wipe might be an alternative if it's really, really, bad, but some that I've tried cab be a bit, er, aggressive! (I'd want to check it wasn't going to damage the paint first).