pistonbroke Posted May 27, 2013 Share Posted May 27, 2013 Painting some kitchen units , they are all solid oak wood which has been previously varnished some 30 years ago, the varnish is lifting in places and needs to come off , the customer wants them painting white instead Anyone any recomendations for painting and anyone recommend a decent paint stripper ? I have always used Nitromorse but i read this is now crap since they changed the formula some time ago , and it aint cheap . What would you DIY freeks use ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
User0083 Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 I got excited then... Strippers on solid oak kitchen units... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhouse Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 When I last had to remove old varnish from oak I used a card scraper. It took a while but produced excellent results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norman Verona Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 I used nitromoe to remove paint from an old door. It softened it a bit but didn't really get the paint soft. I then used a blow lamp and scraper. I finished it off bt applying a cler lacquer. Looks good. Just tell your man that you'll remove the varnish if he then leaves it nautural, painting wood is a heathen practice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhouse Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 painting wood is a heathen practice. We live in a conservation area and had an oak framed garage built a few years ago, with hardwood double doors as part of the spec. The council were very 'detailed' in their comments regarding spec/finishes etc. When the planning approval came through, one of the conditions was that the garage doors had to be painted. I phoned to check that 'painting' included the clear polyurethane varnish I intended to use and was told that was not acceptable. It had to be paint. They said any colour would be acceptable - and OK'd my suggestion of alternating blue, yellow and green planks. Luckily, I managed to source some Iroko coloured paint which gave a superb finish. So good, I'd swear you could even see the wood grain through it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
User0083 Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 I've always just sanded. Skirting boards took a couple of weeks! Spent about a month on two doors an door frames. But end result's worth it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pistonbroke Posted May 28, 2013 Author Share Posted May 28, 2013 Its a Lady friend and after she 's spent 30 odd years looking at her beautiful oak kitchen has now decided its time for a change , wants to brighten the kitchen up , you know how it goes , they see something in a showroom and start thinking women things , once the idea is there ther's no stopping the process , though god knows ive tried The kitchen she wanted would cost £12700 and imo wouldnt be any better than the one she has already which is very well made piece of kit . Hope it looks OK after its painted or my names mud and I wont be getting any more gattauex . Oh well! looks like its out with the wire wool and nitromorse, only saving grace I think its the original laquer / varnish so just the 1 or 2 coats to come off so not too bad only 15 doors and 8 drawer fronts to go , should have it done for xmas ta for the replies Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pistonbroke Posted May 28, 2013 Author Share Posted May 28, 2013 I've always just sanded. Skirting boards took a couple of weeks! Spent about a month on two doors an door frames. But end result's worth it. a month spent on 2 doors isnt an option , try using a better sander next time or get some mug like me to do it for you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darrell O'Neill Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 Yep. Quick going over with the nitromoors and then a good quality primer and undercoat. The secret is in the prep.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham0127 Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 Use a water based paint or any dyes and stains used in original finish WILL bleed through.Wipe panels down with acetone....one wipe....once lightly sanded...... Farrow and Ball paint is very good and comes in good modern tones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cleggy the Spyder Man Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 not relevant at all - but we sell a product called "Polish Stripper" - well makes me laugh anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alexander72 Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 snigger fnar fnar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pistonbroke Posted May 28, 2013 Author Share Posted May 28, 2013 Use a water based paint or any dyes and stains used in original finish WILL bleed through.Wipe panels down with acetone....one wipe....once lightly sanded...... Farrow and Ball paint is very good and comes in good modern tones. Interesting , I was advised to use oil based paint by someone who should know , the oak is well seasoned so dont think the tannin will be an issue , acetone is a great idea thanks , used it before on teak prior to varnishing and to clean other timber of contaminants Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darrell O'Neill Posted May 28, 2013 Share Posted May 28, 2013 Ive just done a full house of internal wood doors that have been varished/stained. I can confirm its the water based paints that cause the most stain through. The first coat of an oil base paint should seal it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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