Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'handbrake'.
-
SOLD - Hi Spec rear callipers, pads braided lines discs - sensible offers considered
Greenstreak-Andy D posted a topic in Parts for Sale
I have a complete rear brake setup for sale. Has done less than 5000 miles. Owing to lockdown, buyer will need to arrange courier collection from my home, Sandbach Cheshire. Hi Spec rear calliper including pads and braided lines (even the mounting cap head bolts) £300 Rear discs, slotted and X-drilled £50 ***Provisionally SOLD pending payment**** Handbrake cable and 'balance' connector £25 ***SOLD**** Also have golf calliper slide pins and pad anti rattle shims, all new - £10 Thanks for looking Andy -
Hi all, I'm not hugely mechanically savvy, but thanks to trawling this forum I've found lots of useful things to try, but I'm still stuck so would appreciate any help. My car is currently off the road and in trying to get it ready to go for an MOT it appears the brake fluid / handbrake warning lamp won't work. It used to work fine, but last year it came on a bit then flickered off whilst I was driving, and since then it's never come back on. Things i've tried.. I took the carpet up on the tunnel and found the handbrake switch was broken, so I've replaced that. (I'm hoping that was why it flickered on and then died in the first place) I've replaced the bulb and bulb holder in the dashboard I've put it up on ramps and stands today and looked underneath the tunnel to see any obvious broken wires/connections and can't see anything wrong I've looked behind the dash and can't see any broken wires/connections either I've checked and replaced the fuse. Also, I would imagine that if it's the fuse there would be other things affected? (the reversing light doesn't come on, but I'm not sure if it ever has, so may or may not be related) I've not tried doing anything with the brake fluid reservoir / switch, a) because it's hard to get to, b) because I figure if the fluid was low or the switch in their was iffy then the light would come on anyway (and even if it didn't, shouldn't it come on via the handbrake anyway?) c) because I figured I only need the light to come on via handbrake to get through M.O.T (and the brakes feel fine in use). Any help would be greatly appreciated. As it's SORN'd at the moment I can't take it anywhere for someone to look at, and I know it'd fail an MOT if I took it, so gotta try and work through it on my own. Having not built the car in the first place it's been something of a learning curve trying to diagnose it. Thanks Rob Details of the car, in case it's of use: 1999 SEW Silvertop Zetec 2l, MT75 gearbox, Weber Alpha 3D ignition system
-
More items in the garage clearout.... Also a very simple but effective differential breather bottle; Seems a shame to junk it... £5 + postage. A lightweight windscreen washer bottle. I made this to save carrying a kilo of washer fluid around and taking up a decent size space under the bonnet. Passed the MoT every time, it just means that you carry less than a coke-can amount of washer fluid with you...Perfect! (how often do you manage to drain a washer bottle in a Westfield?!). It's got the T shaped connector with a couple of inches of wiring tail, and also a black washer spray nozzle...SOLD And a Ford Sierra handbrake....SOLD (I've also got a handbrake cable if you really need it - not the best condition but may be useful to someone?)
-
May be a trivial question but i'm trying to replace the rear left Sierra brake caliper on my SEiGHT. I need to get the handbrake cable off but i'm not sure how to slacken it. Seems that i need to get access under the handbrake level itself where it channels through the transmission tunnel which looks tricky to get to. Just thinking that there could be a lot easier way that i'm missing?