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Found 2 results

  1. My eldest has bought some deep dish wheels for his Mini, they look great but don't fit, they catch on the wing. So, it looks like I'm going to have to grind off an inch or so to allow the wheels and tyres room to turn. Before I go down this drastic route (it's a sound car bodywork wise, feels like sacrilege to cut it about), I'll see if there are other options he would entertain like sending them back and making do with the std wheels, but he seems keen and they are "supposed" to fit and understand some modification is expected. As far it'll go right lock Yep the are fat and out there! Full left lock only being stopped by the offside tyre hitting the wing but a bit more room (not under weight though) My plan, which I need advice on please, is: With a suitably sized grinder, cut away just enough of the wing to allow free movement of the wheels under load Q: Should I aim to replicate the folded edge and trim that, won't I crack the paint by bending it or would a straight edge be ok? I don't think the replacement arches need the lip for mounting and the rivnuts are where they need to be, clean and solid Clean, sand and treat the bare metal edge Q: what should I use to treat the bare metal, how long should I leave it to "set"? Then while masked up, give the new edge a couple coats of matched BRG from a rattle can - I'm no good at this but I think it needs a coat or two and it will be hidden by the replacement arches anyway. Objective here is to keep it sealed and rust free rather than pretty With the same BRG rattle can, give the new fibreglass arches once sanded and holes drilled for the rivnut bolts a few coats Q: for a quality job I guess I need to do this under cover e.g. shed and dust free and ONLY apply a coat or two and allow to dry for a few hours before applying another couple - is this about right? New arches attached using the existing rivnuts which are all in good condition; whilst a similar size to the originals are actually shallower i.e. designed for wider wheels so they won't need chopping about My other plan of course is to explain to him the error of his ways and send him packing to a local body-shop and have him pay to get it done professionally. Advice welcomed before I take possession of @Ian Tolfree (tolf) - North London AO's grinder!!
  2. Soon for Ebay but may be open to sensible offers Damaged but usable bodywork, all genuine Westfield ZK baodywork in black gel coat Black ZK style bodywork, (does not include fron Arches or Scuttle so not a full set) - this bodywork was on my car for 8 years, and has taken the odd knock - some trackdays, and some silly nkocks getting it on the traler etc, as a track focused car my intention was to live with it and then replace if I ever sold the car, which I did earlier in the year Nosecone - heavy crazing to the front (some may recall my nkock on the tryewall during the spped series at 3 sisters back in 2006, as a Ducted nose type this originally had the grill system moulded into the design 9rather than mesh) but the timing strut punched through these so they got cut out with the dremel and converted to mesh front. The star crazing / cracks are pretty heavy - still got good structural strentgh and the crazing is only really seen once your within a few feet. Front Splitter - inc on the nosecone - this suffered damage when I did a bit of grass cutting at the ESCC trackday at Mallory, the engine / nose area had a flat floor plat system wich had quck release fixings into the splitter, this caught on the grass and ripped the fixings out along the splitter Main Tub - no structurla damage or shunts but has the odd scuff and some pebble dashing where where it curls out to meet the rear arch, this is low down so does not really stand out. The side pods were neatly cut and flared out, this cut is in line with the bonnet - scuttle line so looks right. The rear valance has holes for air vents (stops the old parachute effect of trapped air. doulble sided stickyback needs removing from old reg plate area. rear Arch- nearside - got it caughts on the edge of the trailer which reulted in it cracking mid way along, needs some fibreglass matting at the back to re-strengthen and could then be painted Rear arch - off side - dmaged to front / low down area where some road debbris hit it expsoing the internal fibreglass, no loss in overall structural strentgh,may gel coat repair or fill & paint Bonnett - unmarked & good condition (not splitting at the moment) Photo's are in the WSCC Gallery and I can email higher res copies for any one interested Thanks for looking
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