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nice_guy last won the day on March 16

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  1. @garytipping, may I ask the source of that simple nice brushed gear lever knob ?
  2. @corsechris If you really want a purchase on your big nutty threaded collar in the airbox, you can make "dimples" in it with a heated bit of tube, I occasionally bent printed part with a lighter, a small gas torch, a soldering iron (handy to insert threaded inserts) or a lightsaber.
  3. Don't worry, nothing's broken ! Tu pull the filament you need to heat the print head and reach 180 or above : in the head itself the filament makes a little bulb, or a knob. At 20°c it'll be hard and won't come out without a fight and a significant bit of strength. Heated, it's all soft, and you pull it easy. Once reinserted you proibably had a fresh cut and the weeping is just the head returning to the state you are using it, with nominal pressure and so on. I tend after doing this, or changing filament, to run the extruder on manual in software contol until the correct color appears. That's just normal behavior of filament melting until it sits at the bottom of the heated chamber in the hot end. It weeps a bit. It does the same when you start a print, if you look it weeps a bit before starting the print, during warmup. And that's exactly how you tilt the bed on its springs. It's just threaded rods and springs, not smooth self levelling device, it does not return to its exact position if you push it. And we're aziming at a 1/10th of a mil gap. Would be a good idea to level on the lexan plate a couple of times (I always do an adjusting run and a confirmation one) In preferences edit profile, enable visibility for top/bottom speed ? Or better, initial layer speed ? Then you have it in the settings panel : (these are default settings, I never actually used cura)
  4. How deep is the center depression ? and how hot is the bed? Was the bed at printing temperature when using calibration routine ? Metal plate heated on one side only will warp, there is not much to do about it, however it's slightly less deformed if you are gentle with bed temp. 30°-40° should work, depending on the ambient temp. Warping is not something you can prevent, it's inherent to beds, but gentle temp and height set nicely will do it unless you are dealing with ABS (90°+ bed temp) You can also adjust first layer height, it's usually 50% bigger than the others, so that you push more material and make for bed unevenness (is that an actual word ?). My first layer is .3 on .2 layer height prints. Should be default settings, though. New bed will warp too, I have put a 4mil thick bed on the legacy printer, deforms a bit less but still moves. You can use glass, glass is VERY flat and stays mostly that way, but may be more challenging for adhesion (regular picture frame glass works, if you use A5 size frame no need to cut it). And glass is heavy, hence putting more strain on the Y axis (layer shifting happens). There is little you can do to fight physics. Bed levelling sensor does it, but I still don't use one. It's always a good idea to print the first layer with a bit more care, if you're going to print the massive snorkel that @corsechris did, if your print unstick after 15h because of less than ideal adhesion you'll be slightly upset. As you are fortunate to have a hole in the middle of the bed, rather than a hill, polycarbonate clipped to edges will do nicely. You'll need to reset the height to make for the polycarbonate thickness, but that's alll the fuss there is about. Given the aspect of your prints underside I believe, even though it's not perfectly flat, levelling the bed in the correct plane (regarding machine axis) would get rid of the uneven surface. (unless the rough patch is not one end of the part but the dead center of the bed)
  5. Perimeter speed is usually lower by default, it is continuous and lets the filament sag and cool into the bed "a tad". Bad reel of filament doesn't happen anymore, and diameter variation show very small defects noticeable on perimeters. The missing patches are just there because on fast infill movements the filament doesn't adhere to the bed (there are blobs that made contact at each end where the print head changes direction). But where is the filament gone, where there are bald patches ? It was probably dragged by the head and stuck inside the print somewhere where it crossed perimeters (holes ?) and was printed over. The hot end carried this fluffy spaghetti bit somewhere in the print. The more telling thing is the gradient from good adhesion to less and less contact, to none, speed merely amplifies the consequences. This doesn't happen with a clipped plate (provided no speck is between the plate and the bed. Because you don't pull on the bed and its springy mounts while unsticking the part when you unclip, bend the plate, and reclip it. Since using a (policarbonate, but that's not the point) remote plate I very rarely touched the bed height knobs, and on the ender 2, where plate was from day one, I never touched post setup. Given you have bltouch and meshing, that will probably never happen to you (unless cold, reasy printing surface)
  6. @corsechris Looks mega. Layer shift happens usually when inertia beats driver current, yes. (There's the off bit of dirt in the belts, but unlikely) Regarding @TableLeg adhesion I do not think it's due to play in the pneumatic fittings, it usually occurs when retraction, and on the large lower face shot there is a gradient where plastic is smeared in an uniform coat, with the print plate grain showing, then beads get noticeble, then gaps, then bigger gaps, then missing chunks (no adhesion) Speed is a factor (filament is less pushed into the build plate). The perimeter shows it well. And any issue that would impact not only first layer would have resulted in a spaghetti incident. (If you have issue with the pneumatic fittings, try to cut 10mm of the tubing, that's usually the tubing itelf that doesn't like to be pushed in and out too many times)
  7. Well, I made delicate 1.5mm thick brackets, practised on thin square tubing with 1.6mm electrodes on 40 amps, hand like a butterfly, to find in the 30cm under the car - barely the space for the mask - that that square tubing was coated with something very reluctant to part with metal, and that the steel itself needed less polite manners. I was really concerned and fearful, did not want to go through the tubing. In the end I had to use 20x20x3mm angle bar for the brackets and regretted not to have 3.2mm sticks. I was told that the car was born with a twin cam and was sort of a dev mule for independant rear suspension, and that thing that doesn't spark makes me wonder what kind of alloy was used... Billet MDF does look impressive, doesn't it ? Well, it took ages to do, redo and iterate, but I probably will get to speed for the supporting plate as it is semi-templated, while the paint dries on the chassis, then test the strength and bolt the gearbox down for good. I'll then jack the engine, remove the front mounts, probably chop 10mm out of each lower mount and drill & bolt them after a lick of paint.
  8. I'd like to see the threads too ! (maybe if I use fusion a bit more i'll get into screwy thingies) Temperature around the airbox may be an issue, PLA doesn't show much backbone after 60-70°celsius, but I guess it's all related to airbox location and part thickness. That said, I printed one of these in PLA and it worked nicely with a 2mm thickness. (the plastic shroud on a four stroke minibike) (At the time being the things I plan to put in the engine bay will be somehow structural, so I'll leave my featherweigh paperthin manners, and go beefy and ABS or PETG)
  9. Behold the MDF gearbox mounting plate... The brackets it's bolted to are welded to the chassis with 50% ugly welds. And 50% not pretty either. But 100% sound, they're going to be load tested once I replace the MDF template by a suitable metal plate. (Position under the car and cramped space lead to funny contorsions, stiks cut very short and crappy angles, mostly because I'm not gifted with three elbow joints on each arm.) Did Westfield, somewhere in time, build cars with funky steel ? Or special one-offs ? The powdercoat on my chassis is VERY good quality, had a hard time removing it.. and the metal itself is... unexpectedly nice. Probably thicker walls than the 1.5 millimeter I expected (sinks heat like crazy, had to re-make brackets from a thicker material and crank up to 80 amps) and doesn't spark when presented with powerfile or angle grinder. The existing-but-not-original gearbox bracket did spark under grinding, then no spark when reaching chassis. Did they use Vibranium in the late eighties ? I assumed the frame would have been made with a mundane flavor of mild steel and after seeing Gadgetman's car rear end assumed it would have been coated with little more than a wish, but It exeeds my expectations...
  10. Thats probably a bed not level or warped, it can move if you have a build surface "attached" to the bed, when pulling the parts it can shift the bed a bit (10/th of mm). The zone where the beads are not smeared against the build surface is lower than where it looks nice....
  11. That's a big one ! (Impressive. Need to emboss "Corsechris Racing Engineering" somewhere, it deserves it !) Lots of supports, would you post pics of the assembled element in situ ? (petg ?)
  12. (Dzus I believe) --> https://www.southco.com/en-us/tl-sl
  13. I don't know what shape your support was, but if you touch the print surface with your fingers it's a good idea to wipe it with a dab of isopropyl
  14. Glad it worked ! Filament also makes nice hinge pin, and 3D printed hinges are surprisingly durable. I expect there are a certain amount of the brackets to be covered on the car, production run now ?
  15. That's pretty damn good for such a complex part, with so many contact surfaces in all shapes and directions, and it just fits...
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