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GaryH

WSCC Member
  • Content Count

    237
  • Joined

  • Last visited

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94 Good

About GaryH

  • Rank
    Driver

Profile Information

  • Car Details
    Sigma 1600i.
  • My Location
    Herefordshire

Recent Profile Visitors

1,097 profile views
  1. Yes please. I'll PM you. Gary
  2. GaryH

    Varta Battery

    Interesting enough that's very similar to the specified uses (jet ski) for the battery I replaced the factory fitted Varta 530 030 030, I was recommended this one by my local motor factors - Tungston platinum C60-N24L-A - it's been faultless . Gary
  3. GaryH

    Varta Battery

    Try a varta 530 030 030, one was fitted to my factory car of a similar age. Gary
  4. True, but as well sump variants we also don't know if over the years the flexible tube that dipstick runs in has been changed, lengthened or shortened, or if the dipstick is a standard dipstick, but we do have a reference for a standard start, from which we can look at variations. Gary
  5. I wanted to double check so here's a screen grab from Peter and Valarie Wallace's Crossflow tuning book. Looks to me like they list the initial oil capacity as 3.67L. I've also checked what we put in the family crossflow and it's 3.5L of mineral Valvoline VR1 20w-50. Gives some guidlines at least. Gary
  6. GaryH

    Removal of Rear Hub

    When I did this I used Plus gas on the sections where the stud goes through the upright, very gently clean as much rust off the exposed section of the stud as possible, and use a nut and washers to pull the stud through the upright. Increase the number of washers and spacers as the stud pulls through. The one on my car let go with a "bang", but got easier when it had pulled through one of the upright sections. When you put it back use plenty of copper slip on the stud, clean the threads before you drop the car and torque the nuts under load. Gary
  7. Try Luke at Playskool motorsport, he gave me good advice about discs and sorted correct ones for my car at very competitive prices. Gary
  8. Sounds similar to a problem I had. Check all the earths involved with the ECU, not sure about your ECU, but on mine a broken earth caused it to sense that the car was running cold and was triggering enriched start up fuel and ignition settings. Gary
  9. Agreed about the mixed message of heat damage - just reporting what they told me about the CATs they supplied to me. When I looked down the pipe it seemed to be a metal honeycomb or mesh, maybe it's the possible combinstion of friction heat in the wrong place and vibration of the mechanical polisher that could damage their CAT.
  10. A word of caution - when I spoke to the guys at wunoff about polishing out the "welding scars", they said be really careful not to get the surface too hot with mechanical polishers as it can break down the catalysts. Seems odd to me given the hot exhaust gases passing through it, but that's why I used the anti blue and elbow grease. Gary
  11. Looking good. If you are looking to spit and polish it after welding try something like Autosol anti blue to remove the colouring left by the welding. I've used it on motorcycle exhausts to remove heat bluing and it did a good job on the CAT link pipe that I had made. Gary
  12. You're welcome. Glad it's helpful. Gary
  13. Westfield_1600_-_Engine_Manual-2007-07-17-1.pdf I had a brainwave and with some seaching found a copy of this. My car was the factory demonstrator so I'm pretty sure it's my car in pictures. Gary Westfield_1600_-_Engine_Manual-2007-07-17-1.pdf
  14. Hi Kevin. I'm away from home at present. I'll take a look at my factory car set up as soon as I can. Gary
  15. My daughter has got on well with her Skoda Fabia. Mixed motorway and country road driving, plenty of room for kit and there's plenty of custom/tuning gear around if she wants it. There's even a good Skoda forum (not as good here, obviously) in briskoda. Gary
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