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If you're looking for a bit of light reading the Race and rally car source book by Allan Staniforth has some good suspension write ups.

An interesting thread from the archives here: Rather than take this one too much further off topic.

You used to see a few similar mods to the old RAC roll bar, back in the day. Not seen it done since the rule changes brought about the MSA roll bar, so i guess it was no longer compliant?

Yep - I've just fitted one of their quick racks. No problems there.

I’ve found Rally designs own branded stuff to vary enormously product type, to product type. I’ve got their quick rack, and it’s been fantastic, really good quality. Other stuff I’ve had has sometimes been so poorly made/designed, they’ve taken it straight back and refunded me. These days, I like to see a lot of positive recommendations for any specific RD product, before I trust it.

It’s a really complicated topic, worthy of a thread on its own. It’s not a black and white thing either, many get into the idea of bump steer = bad, must eliminate. The reality is, that it’s just another element, that needs to be controlled, but can also be used beneficially. Lotus for example, often use controlled amounts of bump steer beneficially.

Interesting. I bought some Rally Design hubs for my first Westy and the runout on them was terrible. Perhaps they have improved? I have one of the Westfield / Hispec ones on the other side, so I'd prefer them to match.

Its very interesting. I wasn't away of the differences in the chassis, but then I am an old SE narrow. But my understanding of the principle of moving the rack, and I am by no means an expert. Is to reduce the effect to steering angle and maybe toe during the normal suspension travel known as Bump Steer. I understand that in a perfect world the steering arms would be straight at normal ride height and move in the same angles as the suspension arms and so ideally should be parallel to the arms and also pivot in in the same place. In the picture because the steering arms/trackrods are angled down so when the suspension compresses and the arms straighten the arms in relation to the upright lengthen effecting the steering angle and ultimately the toe Of course as always its a lot more complicated that this and there are always compromises with the parts available in a kit car. All just my understanding and happy to be corrected as its a very complicated subject and am very happy to learn and understand better myself.

I've heard some bad stories with Hispec uprights. Personally, I can recommend the ones RallyDesign sell, sturdy and cheap, got a set last month and they worked perfectly: https://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=1375_1594_1597&products_id=4356&osCsid=bvpq56g33tj0j170n8pg441rn0 Bearings: https://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=1375_1594_1597&products_id=14670 Studs: https://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=1375_1594_1597&products_id=4674

Yes, I've spoken to them. I was hoping to pick up a second hand / unused one for a little less. Hi-Spec also have at least a 6 week lead time.

Go direct to Hi spec @Geoff101 They will supply just the bits you need. https://www.hispecbrake.co.uk/uprights.html

I can't stop thinking about this. Is it trying to get the track rod end position closer to the middle of the upright to minimise the effect when the camber of the upright changes?

Still looking.

I'm not sure that I understand that. Surely, if you raise the rack then raise the ball joint location to compensate then it puts all the angles back where they were, with no effect on bump steer? Just with a higher rack? Or am I missing something? David

There was once a kit car made in Rothbury. The Kingfisher

On my calendar. Should be a nice run out. I might drag my son along for company as well. Mark

The chassis re-working for the. Mega S2000 was contracted out to Randle Engineering, who are behind the subtle and not so subtle tweaks and changes to the design. Which was then (initially) manufactured in-house, alongside the other chassis offered, before being made, again, like their other chassis, by an outside contractor - it was Caged, though not sure if they carried on after the factory reopened, or not. (the design changes for the Sport 250 were added to the Mega S2000 chassis in house by the old WSC factory, as far as I know). As a general note, be very careful with chassis mods affecting suspension or steering pick up point locations. Make sure you comply with any local legislation. And if the car is for competition, make sure changing these things is ok in the rigs for whatever series you compete in. (It often isn’t.) In the UK, (not for Westfields AFAIK), but in off road circles, a lot of Land Rover/Range Rover custom hybrids lost their VIN numbers under DVSA crack downs, and I know of at least one Caterham that ended up loosing its vin number and having to be parted out and (I think) the chassis destroyed, for the same reason.

So, is it possible to weld a bar and brackets onto an older Westfield chassis to raise the steering rack and reduce bump steer? I wasn’t really aware how poor the front-end geometry was on the older Westfield chassis — in my case, the Aerorace, and also an older road-going version (although on the road, it’s not such an issue). I always thought the handling quirks were just part of the "kit car character" — until I had the chance to drive an MNR VortX Inboard on track, with similar power. The MNR, designed by race driver Marc Nordon, is a completely different experience. While the Westfield feels like an evolution of an affordable road-going kit car — and you can feel that in its behavior — the VortX is much more composed and confidence-inspiring, especially over bumps and curbs. The difference was night and day. Now I’m wondering if bump steer is the main issue here. It’s interesting that Westfield changed the design on their newer chassis to a higher-mounted rack. If that’s the case, and the steering rack position really makes that much of a difference, then welding a bar and brackets to reposition it doesn’t seem like such a complicated modification — at least not if it brings the handling closer to what the MNR delivers. Has anyone here done this mod on an older chassis? Would love to hear thoughts or some guide how high is this bar welded ?

Hi guys thanks to all those that turned up for our July meet, was a great run out even if someone managed to break down lol. Our august meet is going to be on the 12/08/25 the plan is to have a drive up and around North northumberland finishing for drink in Rothbury before heading home. Meeting point is going to be Shiremoor house farm NE298DZ, for 6.30-6.45pm from there I have route planned to head up to Rothbury, look forward to seeing you guys there, drop me a message if you need anymore info

Great write and photos up on your trip Ian, hopefully this might inspire others to take the plunge and get their Westfield out on these great roads. We had a blast when we did it.

Great write up Ian.

Brought by mistake as 2 sets of 14” or 355mm when I have standard track front end, so brought & never fitted. They are Standard fit for Rear or for Wide Track Front end. £168 each + P&P from Westfield - will accept £225 collect from Wolves or £240 posted uk mainland

As above which might fit kit body with fixed rear arches, or something similar that could be fettled to fit. Thanks! M

Yep. My helmet was on the car, but didn't leave the helmet box all trip! Excellent. Happy to have a chat at some point if you need any help/input etc. Especially in home made cars! 😎

If you've never been Steve, you really should. Even in one of your other cars, the sights are just amazing as you can see from Ian's pictures.