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As I always do when I am learning new stuff on here, I went and compared mine, which are indeed attached from below and are horizontal.

The 2.0 Zetec is a good engine, I had one in my first Westfield running on twin 45's. On Jenvey ITB's the blacktop will probably be in the 170-180bhp range, more than enough to put a smile on your face!

Is there a reason the tie rods can't be turned through 180° and attach from the top of the steering arm? There looks to be room.

Pardon the expression, but wow that's a wide rear! I run a staggered 13x6 and 13x8 set up on my Mega S2000 and also love the ZZS as a great all rounder (work well as a track wet and every day road tyre). The widest 13 inch semi slicks I know of are the Kumho v70a in 235/45, the Nankang AR1 in 235/45 and R888R in 225/45.... unfortunately all are a bit of a stretch on an 11inch rim. I've used the Kumho in 235/45 (plus the ZZS and ZZR in 215/55) and it is a great tyre, comparable to the ZZR in the dry and better than the ZZS in the wet (but I'm no Max Verstappen!). Interestingly, Waltham Services are now listing the Nova ZZS in 185/55r13 on eBay so they may be worth a call to see if they have other sizes back in? Good luck!

My bonnet isn't transparent either, and nor is the engine, so to me it's no different to checking the oil level on the dip stick etc.

Yep, they're standard replacements for all Cortina uprights, (the only time they're different is on the Mega S2000 and the Sport 250, and even then its just the steering arms that have to be swapped). If you can get decent cast iron uprights, great you could do that. But the alloy ones came about nearly thirty years ago now, as the cast iron Cortina parts were getting harder and harder to source in good condition, and impossible to buy new. (the car they came from was last manufactured in 1982!! So it's 42 years since they were current.)

That's what I wondered, assuming of course it is a standard chassis!

Hi. Does anyone have a set of unmolested rollbar covers to cover the base of the rollbar as it attaches to the rear of the chassis? I think NV Carbon used to make a carbon set but I also think they are no longer in business. Westfield want £268 for a pair and this is simply ridiculous. What other options do i have?

That looks fabulous. What fun. My dark green V8 feels pretty damn lively even without a supercharger. So hats off to you!

That's interesting Dave - thank you for clearing that up. I wonder why such an angle then? Ride height being set very high I suppose? dave

Are the uprights advertised on Westfields website the right ones, I will have to read the advert again but thought they were only for later cars. Standard cast ones or even just a passenger side one would be OK.

I've been reading this biography on Frank Costin. It's a bit of a hagiography; the author is obviously a bit of a fanboy, but it's nontheless quite readable. It has a nice chapter on the eleven. The thing that caught my eye though was a throwaway comment about the seven: It makes you think about the windscreen aerodynamics... David

I may well have a newish soft bits roof coming up for sale. Twin doors and leather bag. Plus soft bits roof bars to stop it slapping your head at speed! (if you have the MSA roll bar)Only reason is Iam looking to go full cage and aero screen

Was already typing!!

Kit roof's can be "problematic" with ZK body work, but can work as long as the frame and hood match, the press stood locations on the back of the tub though need doing to match the hood as they are from memory, slightly higher up the tub than a ZK top. Using ZK side screens with a kit hood might work as long as they're early ZK and not from the last five to ten years. The top of the Kit bodywork is ever so slightly narrower at scuttle top level side to side than ZK, while the proportions of the hoods are subtly different. I've made it work before now, but it helps a lot if the tub has never had roof fittings riveted on before.

While I can claim no credit for the build, I am now the proud owner of a 1995 Westfield SEiW with a long and storied history here in the US. From an early appearance in Road & Track in 1996, through its current configuration at the hands of its previous owner (JohnCh), this little red beauty has seen a lot of changes, and I'm in awe of all of them. The only thing I changed was adding the WA State Collector Car plates (due to its 30+ year age) to keep from having to re-license it every year. While I might make subtle changes over time, I'm having waaaay too much fun to even consider it currently.

@Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman do you know if a hood from a "kit" would fit a ZK? If not, is there anyone else who would know or what the critical measurements would be?

That might be of interest then, if anyone can confirm it would actually fit. Doors aren't a problem as apparently we have those.

I've got a hood and the frame for it sitting in my garage loft. It's grey and doesn't have doors with it as I still use those, but having just bought a part built XI kit. It's time for a garage clear out to create some £££. I've got a proper roll bar to go on the car and the hood won't go over that. My SEIW has "kit" bodywork so this hood won't fit an FW and might(?) fit a ZK.

Thanks. As for the spec erm... We both wanted the ZK bodystyle, Widebody, low roll bar, loud colour and all those boxes are ticked. As for the engine it's a 2.0 Zetec with Jenvey throttle bodies. Other than that I know just about nothing about it

It kinda was. My 2nd MX5 was purchased with a duff motor but near pristine bodywork (and a hard top). So I made 1 good car out of the 2 and scrapped the rusty leftovers 👍

The Mega S2000 and Sport 250 chassis have a relocated steering rack position compared to the standard chassis; it's higher, to reduce bump steer. So on these cars, the arms sit above the steering arms on the upright, with the tie rod coming in from above, and the nut going on from below. On standard chassis cars it's the other way round, with the rack connecting below the steering arms on the uprights. Agreed though, you look to have quite a steep angle there, which does look wrong. What's the front ride height set to?

Assuming the photo below is correct: Those look like original COrtina cast iron uprights, which are pretty much one piece affairs to all intents and purposes. So if the stub axle(s) themselves are worn - unusual, but it happens, rather than just the wheel bearings, more common, then it's a case of replacing the complete thing. The Westfield alloy front uprights as supplied by the factory are a direct swap for what you have now, assuming you still have clamshell wings. As Alessandro said, they will fit your M16 brakes just fine. I don't know what sort of hubs you have, but if using original (heavy) Cortina items, then it's an ideal time to also swap for the much lighter alloy hubs that match the uprights. (Just for reference, the only part that can't be transferred directly from original Ford Cortina uprights to Westfield alloy uprights, are the wing stays, for those using cycle wings; the designs are different for each upright, and attach differently. The Westfield supplied uprights are made by Hi Spec, who also do their own, none Westfield badged version. A slightly different design upright that still fits is also available from Siltech, BUT care would need to be taken that they were compatible with M16's as they are typically used with a Willwood big brake kit.

Nice work on the bumpers...I hope that gets you through the process. I have a comment that is completely unrelated to the bumpers. In looking at the photos of the front suspension something caught my eye. I see that the tie rods attaching the steering rack to the uprights/hubs angle down dramatically as they go out to the upright. It's my understanding that these tie rods should be more or less horizontal and not angled down. I just went and looked at my car (2014 Mega S2000) and see that the tie rod end sits on top of the steering arm where yours attach to the underside of the arm... hence downward angle. I suspect that the steering arms are on the wrong side of the car and this means that the tie-rod end can only mount to the underside as yours are currently. If you swapped them side-to-side then the tie rod would mount to the top side of the arm and be much closer to horizontal. This is important due to the bump-steer that will result from the angled tie rod. As currently set, the wheels will toe-out in a big way when the wheel is pushed upward by a bump. Ideally there is almost zero toe change (with the arm horizontal) but with this downward slope the wheel will toe-out a lot. This can be a serious issue and can cause the car to be very twitchy as the alignment changes when you hit bumps. It's none of my business of course and you should do what seems right to you...if it were me I'd check this out to be sure all is as it should be. Attached is a photo of my car for reference. I hope this all makes sense. dave

I probably haven't looked enough, I did see some but they were out of stock.