Sport E Sprinting - Full body workout and a dash to the finish
The Sport E rebuild has continued but not quite as I intended. The Sport Turbo body that I wanted to use didn't work with the 17" rear wheels also the bonnet, once fitted, didn't quite reach the scuttle.
It also needed new rear lighting so in the end I opted to repair the old classic tub and replaced the smashed rear arches, nose and bonnet with less smashed parts which I then repaired and painted.
What a difference a huge amount of effort and expense makes to the look of a car! That's supposed to be irony - basically I'm glad to see the back of fiberglass and paint! It's Kawasaki green BTW. In this pic.the wheels are odd.The rears are 15" with T1Rs and the front 17" R1Rs. Initially I'll use the 15" T1Rs all round to calm the car down and make it more predictable first time out. With the 15" rears and no gearbox, the top speed should be limited by motor rpm to around 100mph - enough for now.
So anyway I'm on the home straight now. I'll cover the electrical side of the rebuild in another blog. A couple of interesting points though. First I did keep the Sport Turbo scuttle and dash. This was mainly because being so tall (6'2"), I kept hitting my knees on the underside of the old dash panel. The new dash is quite a bit roomier as can be seen in the picture. I only had the main dash moulding - the instrument cluster and hood were missing but this didn't prove to be an issue. I needed to mount the Race Tech dash etc so I built a new dash face panel from ally and covered it with fake carbon. It turned out better than I had expected. For racing there will be an emergency kill switch in the bottom circular hole.
I've replaced the 12V battery with a smaller one, take a look at the following photo. This shows the battery progression from the original lead acid to the latest lithium battery. According to the specs the small battery is good for a starting current of 150A - only 2.5Ahr though. This was £125 on eBay. It weighs 500g. Ideal for the electric car since it only needs to power the 12V system at 2.5 amps for 5-10 seconds while the main high voltage battery switches itself on. However it should power the car for about an hour without the main battery. I'll also fit an Anderson connector for a 12V charger so it doesn't go flat while I'm messing around with the main battery off and the computer plugged in.
I'm now well into the wiring. This is more familiar territory for me so the end is in sight......hopefully.
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