TREVORGIDLOW's Blog

No advice on the headlights I'm afraid, but if you try this as a new thread on the "Startline", you may get more feedback. Not sure everyone looks at the blogs......

....or on "Tech Talk" for that matter.

No advice on the headlights I'm afraid, but if you try this as a new thread on the "Startline", you may get more feedback. Not sure everyone looks at the blogs......

 

Many, OK most?, don't really read the blogs and even those that do, don't really tend to reply.

 

If you want feedback and advice then Tech Talk is really the best place to post.

 

5 3/4" (140 mm) are usually the best type when it comes to brightness, (the best of a poor bunch by modern standards, admittedly), the smaller  4" type though good looking, often aren't as bright. Nor are the huge 7+" old fashioned ones!

 

That said, not all 5 3/4" units are the same. You can now get 5 3/4" with "Crystal" lenses; these us a modern style lens designed to shape and concentrate the beam, rather than the normal 5 3/4" lights which just rely on the shaped reflector.

 

Big improvements can also be had by using higher power bulbs - though best to avoid the highest power ones as they often don't last so long.

 

Finally, the most contentious upgrade - I'd perhaps make sure you've got a friendly MOT station, is to fit one of the Zenon lamp upgrades to the 5 3/4" shells. Quite a few have done it, with really impressive results. There is some debate whether they are strictly legitimate on a Westfield etc, but I can't recall anyone off the top of my head being told to remove them!

I am in the middle of my Westfield build so cannot guarantee results, but I decided early on to try to improve on the standard setup.

Firstly, I'm told that Halogen bulbs are very sensitive to voltage, ie the brightness drops off with reduced voltage. I am also told that every connection gives a voltage drop of about 0.2 volts, and there are a lot of connections in a headlamp circuit.

So, it seems like a good idea to get the wires at the headlamps to operate relays and to supply power from nearer the battery (but through fuses, of course). I used separate 44.030 wires through 20A Maxi-fuses to supply the main and dip beam systems, through four relays (LH main & dip; RH main & dip). I fitted these into two ABS plastic boxes mounted just in front of the steering rack (and well sealed). I realise this is relatively easy during first build and not so easy thereafter, but I hope you get the general idea.

Secondly I replaced the standard halogen bulbs with Osram Xenon Silverstar bulbs from Vehicle Wiring Products. These are advertised as 50% brighter than conventional halogen bulbs, although they do have a slightly shorter life. I bought an extra one to carry in the car, just in case.