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New Garage. Block, Double Skin, Pre-Cast Or Wood?


DerekJ

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Hi All,

I know there have been several new garage/workshop threads here but what does the hive-mind that is the WSCC collective think about it?

Matt Jackson's been kind enough to point me to some figures for wooden builds so does anyone have a ballpark idea what a 4m x 6m (12'x18') construction would cost?

I assume that a double skin pitch roof job would be the best or should I go with a cheeper alternative.

Cheers

DerekJ

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Are you looking to build it yourself, or get a builder in? as labour will be one of your biggest costs. Likewise if the garage will need planning permission or building regs then that could dramatically push the costs up for you.

As a guide my block built and rendered garage cost me approx £7.5K to build (planning required but exempt from regs) that was with me doing all the ground works, casting the oversite slab and plinth brickwork. I then employed the builder to lay the blocks, chippy for the roof and tiling, then render. I then finised the interor, painted and did the drains and guttering.

Normally we work to a build cost of around £5-600 per sqare metre for garages, so for 24m2 approx £12K would be an estimate.

IMG_1965.jpg

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I was looking at this the other day and found a company locally to me who would supply and erect a wooden garage for about £2k. I haven't researched it completey but have a feeling if it wooden and classed as a temporary structure you don't require planning permission.

Something like this:

http://www.orchardtimberbuildings.co.uk/Garages&Workshops.html

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I haven't researched it completey but have a feeling if it wooden and classed as a temporary structure you don't require planning permission.

I'm afraid to say that's an urban myth, the materials of construction are unimportant to determining what is or isn't a temporary building. If you are in the situation where you need pp for a permanent building then the same would apply and you would need pp for a temporary one on the same site. The only difference is that you may stand a better chance of obtaining the pp for a temporary building as the local authority would see that long term it would ulimately be removed again.

Building regs define a temporary building as "A building which is not intended to remain where it is erected for more than 28 days".

Happy to offer any help if you need any pistol, it's what I do for a living :d

ETA, don't forget to cost in the price of the base for a pre-fab garage. The supply and erect prices typically only include the "kit" itself and not any of the assocatated groundworks for it to stand on or it's drainage. typical concrete costs for us in east anglia are presently approx £80-90m3 if a full 6m3 load, higher for a half load.

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Cheers Smokey, I know where to get the info now - just need to buy a house with the room and access to the garden.

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Thanks for the ballpark figure SmokeyMow. I don't have time to do it myself so I would want it built. Does your figure include roof, floor slab labour etc.?

I don't think I'll need planning permission as it's replacing an existing structure and it's well detached so I don't think I'll need building regs but I will check with the council before I do anything.

Thanks again for the replies.

DerekJ

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Thanks for the ballpark figure SmokeyMow. I don't have time to do it myself so I would want it built. Does your figure include roof, floor slab labour etc.?

Yes that includes for everything materials and labour, but as said that was with me doing as much of the work as I could. If the builder had done the lot then I'd have probably been looking at twice that.

I don't think I'll need planning permission as it's replacing an existing structure and it's well detached so I don't think I'll need building regs but I will check with the council before I do anything.

Providing it's at least 1m off the boundary, detached, single storey and under 30m2 total floor area then it'll be exempt from building regs.

Be careful with regard to planning though as a demolition and rebuild is classed as a new building and as such would have to comply with the same requirements as if it were an empty piece of land on which you want to build. There are no expemptions or otherwise for the replacement of an existing building, although if it needs planning then the fact you are replacing something old and delapidated would work in your favour.

Have a read of this and see here to get an idea of whether it would need planning permission or not :t-up:

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I've built a couple of garages in my time. The first one was a second hand concrete prefab one which I had to dismantl, transport and rebuild. It cost £200 and was OK but it took me ages including laying the base

The next one was a timber one from http://warwickgarages-px.rtrk.co.uk/ which they built to my exact sizes but I had to provode a base and a single course of engineering bricks to prevent water ingress into the timber frame bottom edges. I then also lined it with 9mm ply and rockwool. Really nice and cosy but isnt ideal for fire reasons. They also would suit all neighbourhoods but it cost me around £3k

The latest house has a brick garage which i extended and changed the roof to a pitched roof from a flat roof. Not a fair comparison on price as it was an extension job but I kept the costs down by doing the labour myself and employing specific tradesmen to do specific jobs eg briclayer for walls, roofer for roof etc

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Hi John

Did you use a vapour barrier under the ply? Just asking as if it's heated then moisture could get into the walls and condense at the cold front where rock wool meets external cladding. Mine is timber and ply lined but not insulated in between and I'm just wondering what to do with it.

I've got to work out insulating the roof too but that will prob be foil type stuff under the trusses ie 5inches below the tiles which are staff blue clay reclaimed jobs.

Sorry for thread hijack.

Ps mine is from Passmores.

Mike

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I built a Warwick garage about 10 years ago and very pleased with it. I would recommend you don't add any exta insulation because of the condensation problems. I use a dehumidifier when the weather is cold and damp and that keeps the inside and importantly the car and tools etc bone dry. Heating can then be by electric heater when required.

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i built a wooden garage 13' x 20' flat roof[ish] triple layered, insulated, plastered, heated with a simple portable oil heater.

cost for the timber was around the 6-700 - plus base [depends on the lay of the land really if its sloping etc it will cost more - does it need a drive to it?

planning here in the north east required no more than 60 cubic meters of development allowed which could include decking, greenhouses, sheds etc. over that amount you needed planning, no building regs only if its habitable.

i had to get the electrics certified tho being new install

golden rule - make it wide enough to work around your car - you need about 3-4 feet either side if you can.

if you make it with a pitched roof heating will be harder as the warm air will end up in the roof - flat roof - low interior ceiling means warm air where you need it - on you.

my heater keeps it about 20 degrees even in the coldest weather trick is not to let the heat out - i insulated all the walls with rockwool and the roof - used a moisture barrier between - plasterboarded it out then had it plastered skimmed - in doing so it makes it feel sooooooo much nicer and more pleasurable to work in.. thats the key. if it feels nice and appealing youll enjoy it more

oh i edited to add - lighting - bought 5 12v halogen lights with 4 bulbs on each from wickes - so ended up with 20 odd lights all over the ceiling making it really nice - i even replaced one bulb with a blue bulb - gives a luvverly hue to the lighting lol... by having the place plastered out it keeps it drought free, stops the heat leaking out and keeps out the spiders!

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Hi John

Did you use a vapour barrier under the ply? Just asking as if it's heated then moisture could get into the walls and condense at the cold front where rock wool meets external cladding. Mine is timber and ply lined but not insulated in between and I'm just wondering what to do with it.

I've got to work out insulating the roof too but that will prob be foil type stuff under the trusses ie 5inches below the tiles which are staff blue clay reclaimed jobs.

Sorry for thread hijack.

Ps mine is from Passmores.

Mike

No problems with damp. I think the panels had a damp membrane fitted by the manufacturer with a thin ply lining to sandwich it but not insulated. the building is very solid and worth the money i spent on it plus they are just down the road from my house so any issues were easily remedied

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