Murraymint Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 I'm thinking about upgrading my lights to led's and have a few questions 1. Do you need a relay for led's or is it just the case of replacing the lights. 2. If I was only to replace the rear lights for a start, will the headlights still work or do you need to replace them all at the same time.. I've had a look at various sites, but can make up my mind…appreciate any thoughts on the best ones... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quinten Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 No relay required, and you can replace individual ones (although it will look weird ). Have no recommendations though, am still a long way off replacing mine with them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrisisWolf Posted March 12, 2015 Share Posted March 12, 2015 Which rears are you looking at - out of interest. I need pods as well and these seem to be the only ones which are LED and inc pods - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/361150787707?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Murraymint Posted March 12, 2015 Author Share Posted March 12, 2015 Which rears are you looking at - out of interest. I need pods as well and these seem to be the only ones which are LED and inc pods - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/361150787707?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I have looked at the ebay ones, but can't make up my mind…carbuildersolutions and europaspares both sell led's but a different style.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rab (bombero) Reid Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 Be aware that some cheaper ones on the market DO require a relay as they run 5v and not 12v. That said, CBS and the likes tend to be 12v compliant ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s2rrr Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 You may need a new indicator relay to allow them to work at the correct speed other than that all the currents drawn are less than with filament bulbs so no problems. If you are planning on using LED headlights then the light output and spread would be worth investigating. Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CraigHew Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 Would something from here (or similar site) suffice? http://www.trailertek.com/acatalog/led_lights.html I've just had a quick glance but it would be worth a more detailed look before buying the ebay ones at £89 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SootySport Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 You can just change the normal bulbs to led's like for like size wise or buy complete led light units. Only the indicators will need a change of relay to match the resistance of led bulbs and you can mix led's with normal tungsten filament bulbs as long as you buy the correct relay, they are on Ebay. One thing I found out is some of the led bulbs are susceptible to vibration, the little diodes (the yellow bits) eventually fell out. Trying a different version at the moment and so far they still work after 3 months. If you want different and brighter dash instrument lamps, they are also available in different colours, I used capless blue ones in the VDO clocks and look great with the carbon dash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CosKev Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/370976537415?nav=SEARCH If your using a three pin flasher relay these work very well Just check the wiring, as the pins are in different positions to a standard sierra three pin relay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyonspride Posted March 21, 2015 Share Posted March 21, 2015 Be careful changing the tail/stop bulbs for LED, some of the LED one's don't have a separate circuit for the stop lamp, they use instead a resistor network that reduces the voltage for tail and bypasses these for stop. The problem comes in when you have a 3rd brake light as this will stay on permanently, via the voltage coming back through the resistors in the stop/tail LED bulbs. If you want to stop this you'll have to cut the wires to the tail lights and fit diodes in line, something like a 1N4001 with do nicely. But in doing so, you'll not be able to fit normal bulbs without removing the diodes. Also if you change one bulb and then test it without changing the other, the old bulb will draw excess current through the LED bulb on the opposite side and burn out said resistor network. Using LED replacements for the indicators, be careful here as they make the indicators yellow instead of amber, this might fail an MOT. The LED dash lights are great, I have blue LEDs behind all my instruments and the LED BA7s look great behind the new warning lights. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CosKev Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 Regarding stop/tail, if you buy the correct twin contact bulbs surely you can't go wrong? The one's your on about are single contact? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SootySport Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 Regarding stop/tail, if you buy the correct twin contact bulbs surely you can't go wrong? The one's your on about are single contact? The stop and tail ones I found http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Red-LED-Stop-and-Tail-Bulb-/400880046923?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item5d5650134band tried have the diodes facing sideways when mounted in the oe westfield lamp units, so not much light emitted, the reflector didn't work at all as the led unit was too long. They also were heavy with the amount of glass on them and didn't last long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyonspride Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 Regarding stop/tail, if you buy the correct twin contact bulbs surely you can't go wrong? The one's your on about are single contact? No, the one I mean are twin contact, they simply have a resistor network between the contacts which is what determines the LED brightness. When using tail light current passes through resistors to reduce the brightness, when you hit the brake, the 2nd contact is used and bypasses the resistors. (obviously any resistor values are not correct and you'd have far more LEDs) Left switch is the stop circuit, right switch is tail. Remember coming from each switch in parallel with the resistors and LEDs your connected to another bulb and possibly a 3rd brake light. If I have time later I could do a larger representation to show the current flow/etc when you have more bulbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CosKev Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 Ah right that's a pain! Anyway you can tell which ones are wired that way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CosKev Posted March 22, 2015 Share Posted March 22, 2015 The stop and tail ones I found http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Red-LED-Stop-and-Tail-Bulb-/400880046923?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item5d5650134band tried have the diodes facing sideways when mounted in the oe westfield lamp units, so not much light emitted, the reflector didn't work at all as the led unit was too long. They also were heavy with the amount of glass on them and didn't last long. The ones with 24 LEDs should give a better spread of light,as they have 6 LEDs pointing out sideways to light up reflector where as the ones in your link only have leds facing straight backwards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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