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  2. Build Diary - BugMan's Sport 250

    I knew you'd overtake me soon enough! Rapid progress, keep it up
  3. Slick Tyre Sizes

    thanks john i was hoping someone from the speed series would comment. how much bigger can i look at going should i be looking at 180ish then
  4. More Bodywork Needed..... Two Trophies Though

    Very enjoyable races no doubt and also an enjoyable account of them. You racing yesterday did pop into my head with the thought 'I wonder how he's getting on with his new toy?' Hope you have a good season and not too many repairs. Good luck.
  5. Slick Tyre Sizes

    Slick sizes are a little different to normal road tyre sizes. Normally slicks give you width and outside diameter as part of the sizing eg 250/570/13 meaning 250 wide tread width, 570 diameter and 13 wheel size. Regarding the tread width, this is usually actual tread width of the tyre where as on a road tyre the width is usually the overall width of the tyre. Convert your rim width to mm and then compare. 7 inch rims are approx. 178mm wide so you don't want to be too much wider than this on tyre choice
  6. Slick Tyre Sizes

    im after some advice on slick tyre sizes for my 13inch wheels i think i understand but any insight and help is appreciated. i have a set of 13inch team dynamics pro race 1.2s which are a 7j rim. currently they have r888r 205/60/13s on them. i got these wheels for the purpose of buying dry slicks purley for trackday use so after scouring ebay for a while. im unsure on what sizes i can and cant get away with. most of the slicks ive been looking at are 200 which is 5mm smaller than the current tyre fitted. i understand the other bits of the slick sizes but what im wondering as most of them say under the 200 size tyres ideal for an 8inch rim which is obviously around 200mm wide. so can i run 200 wide slicks on a 7inch rim or should i be looking for a differnt size
  7. Manifold and Exhaust fabrication

    Cool...Seeing him later, he's doing my boost pipes too.
  8. Manifold and Exhaust fabrication

    I've just got booked in with him.
  9. Today
  10. Heated Screen Wiring

    this is what I was given Heated Screen Circuit.pdf
  11. Garage clearout

    7" chrome headlights in fair condition. £30 plus P&P. Various JIC fittings. £15 plus P&P for the lot. Fire extinguisher pull, 1500mm long. £5 plus P&P
  12. Build Diary - BugMan's Sport 250

    Looking into the rear tub boot box, though I’d tidy up and finish the wiring and came up with an idea for the rubber caps that go over the light bulb carriers, it’s a cable tie through from one side to the other with the locking head of another tie to hold in place. Then went on to cable tie up the rest of the cables, and I put a 2-pin new connector on the rear number plate light, having cut off the fitted mail bullet connectors and then fixed this up with a pair of self-adhesive mounts. Went and got the rear boot moulding, put some gaffer tape on so I can pull it out easy, a nice fit, no interference so quite pleased with that. Pulled out the boot lid And checked for fit, all looking good. Then got Josh to take 2 pictures – Reveres, Fog side and brake lights Same but no brake lights (Just noticed must have knocked the indicator as well)
  13. Build Diary - BugMan's Sport 250

    Sunday, 22 April 2018 Following some advice Dave had given to some others, I found an in-line pipe joiner in the washer bottle kit, so took the pipe off the tank, shortened it a bit and then inserted from the outside in and fixed again with a cable tie. So, with the back end now fixed it was time to commit to getting the side panels fixed in-place, so after a bit more fiddling around I went ahead and put the counter-sunk rivets in the end of the side panels to hold them in-place. Manual suggest a pitch of 230mm, but for me it worked out better closer to 180mm with a couple either side of the mounting lug for the bonnet. Then onto the underside, started by making sure the front end was pushed close to the chassis, drilled 4.1mm and then fitted the bigger fat head rivet at the far end and slowly worked my way back. I did notice the difference in height of the 2 sides again highlighting they are not the same and ended up putting a strap around the chassis with some well-padded blocks to pull the middle of the fibreglass side close into the body. Fat head rivets, again on a 180mm centre from front to back both sides. Next task is the 4-point seatbelt mounting points in the rear tub – ugg, not looking forward to this bit. I had followed AdgeC’s idea, somewhat, of making up a jig to help with the marking of these 4 pints, which all worked out pretty well, apart from the far LH side one, which was a bit off. Started with a 4mm point drill until I could feel the hole underneath with a drill and a bit of wiggling, and then opened out with a step drill until I could get my Dremel sanding drum in to get them cantered and opened out to 20mm. Eye bolts then screwed in and tightened up so they all point in the same direction. Again, as others have found there are differences in the rear tub height, as I had to fit a big washer under the driver LH side mounting as it was a lot lower then the rest. My big screwdriver took a bit of hammering to get them all pointing the same way. I then started looking at the rear roll bar, which for me is just the simple hoop. Setup the centre line again from my markings, and them measured to get the bar central and then marked the 70mm the manual suggested as being the distance from the back of the passenger bay. I’ll put up a question on the forum as to me this looks a long way back from some others I have seen. Parked this for now
  14. Spotted in Basildon, Essex today

  15. Manifold and Exhaust fabrication

    Try Ryan Edwards in Bicester, he did mine and is a welding god!
  16. Build Diary - BugMan's Sport 250

    Saturday, 21 April 2018 Had some good weather forecast for the weekend, so after garden harvest time the day had pretty much gone, but again after reading some other posts about the height of the windscreen wiper towers I noticed mine were different, with one side about 5mm higher than the other. So yet again had the scuttle off and the wiper mechanism taken apart to be able to extract the wiper gearboxes. After a bit of work and addition of the odd washer I was able to get both posts to the right height, so that the locking grub screw is correctly locking onto the right spot on the shaft. I also took the opportunity to add a plastic “P” clip in for the washer pipe.
  17. Heated Screen Wiring

    3 pin connector plugs into Auxilary like a loop through (i.e. you are still left with an empty 3 pin connector for auxillary things) 2 spade connectors go to indicator lamp single connector goes to one of the screen wires and other screen wire goes to ground.
  18. Build Diary - BugMan's Sport 250

    Friday, 20 April 2018 Had nothing back from WF on the oil pressure sender, so decided I’d undo the sensor slightly just enough to be able to check what it actually is. Very difficult to see but can now see a 1-10BAR marking, so will set that into Race Studio. Once I had a good picture, this was then tighten up again. After resetting this in RS I now see a figure “2” on the dash for oil pressure while cranking over, so that in my mine means I have positive oil pressure. Right back onto bodywork, so now I am happy that I have everything as good as I can physically get it time to bolt the rear aluminium “L” bracket onto the chassis. Now various manuals seem to suggest just bolting this through the box section at the back, and I know from my apprentice engineering days this can just crush and deform the tube, so I have gone for 4mm rivets, 2 in each of the centre sections and then 1 each at the outer angular ones. I then put in 7x M5 hex head bolts/washers/nyloc’s through the body work to fix this to the aluminium strip. Nicely fished and should be able to use this for the under tray – Post IVA as I’m not going to fit this for now.
  19. Ball Joints and boots

    Track rod ends are escort (not RS2000) and unless you're on the new Honda wishbones, bottom ball joints are Maxi. You should be able to find both on eBay at reasonable prices.
  20. SEiGHT Build Diary

    Thanks Mike
  21. Heated Screen Wiring

    Thanks Mad Hat but I have a few more wires. See the image. Any ideas, I had hoped Westfield might have included a wiring diagram somewhere but I can't find anything.
  22. Build Diary - BugMan's Sport 250

    Thursday, 19 April 2018 Had a go at identifying the oil pressure sender under the car with a light and a mirror, but all I can see ATM is part of what looks like a serial number, so I’ll eMail Mark at WF to check what should be selected in Race Studio. AdgeC has told me he has a 1 to 10 BAR AIM sensor on his so I suspect I currently have a default sensor in RS of 1 to 3 which is wrong. So, gave up on that and after watching another thread on the windscreen wiper being 180Deg out, realised I needed to take my bl**** scuttle apart again to reveres it as others have had to. On the bench took the cover plate off, 4 screws to reveal the inside and took the circlip off the arm, so the wheel is exposed and the threaded shaft can be removed. Then flipped over to remove the 2nd circlip from the outside so the gear wheel is released to revival the stop-block piece of plastic that needed to be moved 180Deg to the other set of mounting holes. You can then see that this rotated the pivot pin 180Deg to the to the other side as it engages the micro switch. This was then re-assembled into the scuttle, again Quick test with some fake wiper arms Back to the mounting of the AIM Expansion block, and I decided it was worth labelling the 2 connections from the oil pressure sender and the front wheel sender with my P-touch printer, may seem a little OTT, but if underneath when all bolted together might be a bit of a b******* to see which is coming from where in the future. Finally scuttle back on, again but also bolted on the dash as I had previously cut a bit off the driver side just to make sure it all fitted.
  23. Supercharging a Hayabusa

    with the coolex after about 5 laps at mallory i was seeing 100 degrees plus. on the road it was fine. changed to the radtec ive never seen over 98 on track and i can just keep going for as long as the fuel tank will allow
  24. Usually you find this where people have minimised the number of parts purchased direct from the factory, probably a more enjoyable/fulfilling build experience, but it can then take a long time to source and purchase parts, as opposed to opening a box and finding everything you need.
  25. Ball Joints and boots

    Hi Folks, I would be interested to know where you obtain your replacement track rod ends, bottom ball joins and steering boots from? All the rubber gaiters are starting to perish / crack so I need to replace them. Am I best obtaining them direct from Westfield?
  26. MBE 956e

    As title mbe 956e ecu Tony
  27. Cycle wing flap

    I have the plastic ones and car is predominantly used for track .... and yes mine have cracked too. Just getting my moneys worth before I replace them Next ones will be fiberglass or carbon fiber.
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