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Updating The Mazda SDV Build Manual


Mark (smokey mow)

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Yeah, I read that, but I hadn't understood that to mean swapping the sides of the calipers too at the time. I thought that was just so the uprights would fit the wishbones. Maybe just me but I think it could have been worded a lot better. 

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  • 2 years later...

It seems that the footwell panels are now supposed to be riveted to the opposite side to what the instructions suggest, with them layered under front edge of the main gearbox panel there... I've only realised that after attaching the bigger panel already though 😕 So I'd have to take out those rivets and start again.

 

I phoned Westfield and they confirmed this, and I'm told it's not possible to put them on the original side because of the chassis changes (something about a chassis bar addition being in the way)? That includes the drivers side too, meaning a different cutout needs to be made in that part too. Again, no mention of any of this in the manual 😖

 

Does anyone know what the chassis change is that's causing the problem with these panels? I can't see it myself, so I'm tempted to just make my own panel to go where the instructions say it should be. 

 

The picture below shows the culprit- this is the front of passenger side- if it was the older design, it'd have a cutout in the lower middle, rather than left corner.

Untitled-2.jpg.9b66e16c9079c37d92540baa404070b9.jpg

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It looks a bit similar to the newer (non SDV) chassis that use the Honda and later Mazda gearboxes. If it's for the same reason, I believe it's to give more clearance to the bell housing/gearbox.

 

Just be aware that if you do start changing things up, (and no reason why you shouldn't look into it), you may find a knock on affect later on with things like trim.

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Yeh I was sent some pictures to show how the panel should fit, and they all show a chassis with the front vertical bar moved inwards- and my chassis isn't like that. So I guess I've just been sent the wrong panel parts.

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19 hours ago, RizFizz said:

It seems that the footwell panels are now supposed to be riveted to the opposite side to what the instructions suggest, with them layered under front edge of the main gearbox panel there... I've only realised that after attaching the bigger panel already though 😕 So I'd have to take out those rivets and start again.

 

I phoned Westfield and they confirmed this, and I'm told it's not possible to put them on the original side because of the chassis changes (something about a chassis bar addition being in the way)? That includes the drivers side too, meaning a different cutout needs to be made in that part too. Again, no mention of any of this in the manual 😖

 

Does anyone know what the chassis change is that's causing the problem with these panels? I can't see it myself, so I'm tempted to just make my own panel to go where the instructions say it should be. 

 

The picture below shows the culprit- this is the front of passenger side- if it was the older design, it'd have a cutout in the lower middle, rather than left corner.

Untitled-2.jpg.9b66e16c9079c37d92540baa404070b9.jpg

if thats the passenger side footwell panel id cut a big hole and make a flap for the gearbox drain and filler holes. upload a picture from further away if you can. 

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42 minutes ago, BenD said:

if thats the passenger side footwell panel id cut a big hole and make a flap for the gearbox drain and filler holes. upload a picture from further away if you can. 

That would have been a great idea. Wish I'd thought of it at the time! 

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On 07/12/2021 at 09:52, BenD said:

if thats the passenger side footwell panel id cut a big hole and make a flap for the gearbox drain and filler holes. upload a picture from further away if you can. 

 

Is it basically impossible to access with the gearbox in place? I'm interested to know how useful that'd be

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3 hours ago, RizFizz said:

 

Is it basically impossible to access with the gearbox in place? I'm interested to know how useful that'd be

It’s doable , I made up a funnel ( old bottle ) with a length of copper fuel tube with a 90 deg bend at the end , then it the filler plug unscrewed from underneath, then poked the funnel tube down from the top and into the hole, put a catch tray under the box ! As when you fill it until it dribbles out the filler hole, the funnel / pipe still has oil in it, that has to go somewhere !

then filler plug back in and wipe everything down.

So definitely doable, but with the holes in the panel easier and less messy.

 

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33 minutes ago, Gary Taylor said:

 I made up a funnel ( old bottle ) with a length of copper fuel tube with a 90 deg bend at the end

 

👍 thats what i have, in fact it has its own peg on which to hang it in the garage. i also use it for the diff as well, and it can be messy but after a got the last lot of copper piping, i kept the two rubber sealed covers on each end - i assume to prevent stuff gaining access during transport and storeage. i now use those rubber ends to push over the pipe filled with oil as soon as you pull it out of the box / diff. bit less than messy than panicking where to drain the funnel and pipe  - which used to end up either all over me or the garage floor. 😁

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 09/12/2021 at 21:14, Gary Taylor said:

It’s doable , I made up a funnel ( old bottle ) with a length of copper fuel tube with a 90 deg bend at the end , then it the filler plug unscrewed from underneath, then poked the funnel tube down from the top and into the hole, put a catch tray under the box ! As when you fill it until it dribbles out the filler hole, the funnel / pipe still has oil in it, that has to go somewhere !

then filler plug back in and wipe everything down.

So definitely doable, but with the holes in the panel easier and less messy.

 

I've rigged up something similar and it works fine. I did have to grind a little off the top of the hex head socket to fit in the space with the wrench. Just place an oil catcher underneath to catch the excess.

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