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Mark (smokey mow)

Updating The Mazda SDV Build Manual

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Mark (smokey mow)

This follows on from a couple of recent threads and conversations I've had and is something I've been meaning to write for a while now. Those of us that have built Mazda SDV's know theres a few errors and omissions in the build manual which could catch out the unwary and theres a few other things that we've discovered now our cars on the road.

I don't want this thread to be used to criticise but would rather it be a resource that can be of help to new members and somewhere existing owners can pool their combined knowledge and some previous posts to ensure that any future build is as painless as possible.

Here's a few items and their fixes that i've found to start things off.

Gearbox mounts

Problem: The standard gearbox mounts on my car were too soft and allow sufficient movement in the drivetrain for the propshaft to hit the handbrake mounting bolts during hard cornering.

Solution: mounts replaced with p.n.4150749 from RS Components

Forum thread: click for link

Steering Column

Problem: Not all Mazda steering columns are the same length and the modified centre column from Westfield may be the wrong length depending on your donor.

Solution: Temporarily fit the upper and lower columns then measure the distance between the pinch bolt recess in the splined ends. Give this dimension to Westfield when sending off the column for modification to help them make it the correct length.

Forum thread: click for link

1.8 Differential

Problem: the 1.8 diff is 1.5" wider than the 1.6 diff and additionally the half shaft drive flange is also increased from 4x100 to 4x110mm pcd, this causes an interference between the driveshaft gator and the upper chassis rail.

Solution: fit spacers or large washers between the diff and the chassis A-frames to lower the rear of the diff.

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Mark (smokey mow)

Position of engine mounts

Problem: The predrilled holes in the chassis to accept the fabricated engine mounts are about 20mm out of position on one side.

Solution: Install the engine and gearbox then re-drill the the triangular mounting plate on the chassis in the correct position for the engine.

Length of prop shaft

Problem: The prop-shaft dimensions given in the build manual may not be accurate depending on how the engine and gearbox are positioned to resolve the engine mount issue.

Solution: install all the drivetrain components, then measure the distance between the gearbox oil seal to the the diff mounting flange.  Allow 15-20mm for clearance between the gearbox oil seal and the shoulder on the splined nose of prop shaft to enable any movement in the drive train to be taken up.

Forum thread: click for link

Clutch pedal

Problem: Some owners have reported problems of the clutch re-engaging if the pedal is depressed fully.  This may be caused by a slight miss-match of the master cylinder to slave cylinder which is moving the clutch release fork beyond its ideal limit of travel.

Solution: fit a pedal stop behind the pedal.  A short length of threaded rod with an iva nut cover on the end will suffice for this purpose, screwed into the nut above the master cylinder push rod.

Example photo: click for photo

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Mooch

Fantastic job, Smokey. This will be a big help to new builders. Here's one I'll add to the list:

The manual shows the donor side repeaters being used on the tub. This is now an IVA fail. Side repeaters should be mounted where they can be seen front and rear, in reality, this means on the front cycle wings.

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BobMet

Heres' another couple...

Steering Rack

The manual tells you to cut 25 mm off each end of the steering arms before fitting the thread adaptors.. Don't cut anything off until you''ve fitted the rack and uprights etc. so that you can mesure how much to cut off. I found 25 mm each side was too much for comfort, leaving only about 10mm being screwed into each adaptor once you've got the wheel alignment set correctly.

Ground Clearance

Following the manual, you'll end up with limited ground clearance beneath the sump. The sump can be modified of course as many owners have done (and Westfield are looking at getting some short sumps made), but an easy way to give you 10-15 mm extra clearance is to raise the engine by using thicker engine mounts (the big rubber bobbins with a stud on each face). I got some from CBS I think.

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Dommo

Good idea!

Not all 1.8 diffs have bolt in drive shafts - the ones that clip in might not have the rubbing issue against the chassis. Mine doesn't seem to anyway!

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fern

Inertia Reel seat Belts

Fit before installing differential or it will be necessary to unbolt and drop out of the way to fit the seat belt reels.

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fern

Handbrake Notes

The two forward mounting holes for the handbrake lever in the chassis do not exist as stated in the current WF manual.

The two forward mounting bolts for the handbrake lever need to be M8 x 65mm countersunk fitted from the tunnel to the N/S to give maximum clearance for the propshaft. The two holes in the bracket need to be countersunk.

It is best to leave the final adjustment of the handbrake until the footbrake is filled with fluid and bleeding is complete

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IanReid

I've recently started building a Mazda SDV Westie. The chasis which I have has an extra bit of bracing at the rear, which is not present in the manual, and that I've not seen in any build diaries. Unfortunately the aluminium seat back panel that Westfiled supply doesn't have provision for this new piece of bracing, and you therefore need to trim the panel to make it fit. My attempt at this trimming was a little cack handed, and I have a largeish gap between the chasis and the panel where the bracing is, I don't think this will be too much of an issue in the grand scheme of things, as there are other gaps already in the panel, for things like seta belts etc to come through. Anyhow here is a link to flickr of a picture, with the extra bracing highlighted.

 

http://flic.kr/p/e1DKYq

 

P.S. Anyone know how to embed flick images in posts.

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Dommo

That was there in mine as well - I did as you did and trimmed around it.
 
To embed images, wrap img tags around it, or there should be an image button in the toolbar just above where you type your post. That's probably easier seeing as I can't persuade the forum to show the code for images instead of trying to actually display an image!

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Fastfarmer

Hi guys,

 

Long time lurker on here and long time builder as had my kit since I hate to say 07 but work, divorce, moving house etc has rather slowed progress!

 

Anyway I'm up and at it again and need to pick some brains!

 

I've got about 30mm of prop showing from the gearbox oil seal to the shoulder on the splined nose of prop, is this too much? as you guys talking about 15/20mm ( had mine shortened sometime ago as per build manual, enough said!!)

 

Had to end up moving n/s engine mount fowards about 25mm, about right?

 

The mx5 had a brace from the gearbox to the diff, where it mounted to the gearbox is very close, about 5 to 10mm, to the o/s lower inner box section of the tunnel, Im just wondering if I can cut some of the casting off at the bottom at an angle to create a bit more gap, anyone else had problam or noticed this?

 

Also when I've offered the rad up (Polo type) the bottom hose looks very very close, almost as if it wont go to the angled upright at the front of the chassis and if it does go with rad in normal position will the hose rub and how have you guys over come?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Just one more thing, anyone any ideas how we can make it stop f***ing rainning so we can get on with some farming!! on the plus side at least I can get stuck into the car in the eves!

 

Cheers guys.

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Mark (smokey mow)

I've got about 30mm of prop showing from the gearbox oil seal to the shoulder on the splined nose of prop, is this too much? as you guys talking about 15/20mm ( had mine shortened sometime ago as per build manual, enough said!!)

 

Had to end up moving n/s engine mount fowards about 25mm, about right?

 

Welcome back :t-up: 30mm is probably more than there should be but the splined length of the prop nose is quite long so it may not cause any issue. I'm not sure how far it has to go in before the splines start to engage, so it's worth measuring accurately to see how much there is.

 

I think I must be the only one that altered to o/s engine mount on mine so my engine went backwards rather than forwards (it gets a bit tight then for the clutch fork) but yes it was about 20-25mm.

 

The mx5 had a brace from the gearbox to the diff, where it mounted to the gearbox is very close, about 5 to 10mm, to the o/s lower inner box section of the tunnel, Im just wondering if I can cut some of the casting off at the bottom at an angle to create a bit more gap, anyone else had problam or noticed this?

Also when I've offered the rad up (Polo type) the bottom hose looks very very close, almost as if it wont go to the angled upright at the front of the chassis and if it does go with rad in normal position will the hose rub and how have you guys over come?

 

It's a common issue, and it's all too easy to get it too close.  This is on my narrow car, but as you can see there's plenty of material that can be cut off the side of the box.

 

http://forum.wscc.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic/88905-smokey’s-narrow-rebuild/?p=933196

 

The hose will rub on the chassis rail.  assuming you have the Datsun 160B doglegged hose then you can shorten one end to move the bends further away from the chassis, alternatively fit some spacers between the radiator and the lower mounting brackets to move the radiator forwards further.

 

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darve

same as Gary - from cbs

20130318_161424_zpsdcbdd411.jpg

20130318_161401_zps17fb144b.jpg

have to cut the thread down on the part that goes into the rad as it's too long

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Mooch

Might have spotted a new one.  

 

At a track day at Hullavington last week, I took the rear wheels off to tweak the shocks.  I'd put the wheels back on and was in the process of torquing the wheel nuts up to 65ft/lbs as per the SDV build manual.  A chap who claimed to know a fair bit about MX5s (races them I think) mentioned that that was too light - standard MX5 wheel nuts should be 85 ft/Lbs.

 

Looking at Rod's book, the stated range is a generous 65-87ft/lbs so we were obviously working to opposite ends of the allowed tolerance.

 

Which should we be using?  Calling Smokey the Guru!!!!

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Mark (smokey mow)

Might have spotted a new one.  

 

At a track day at Hullavington last week, I took the rear wheels off to tweak the shocks.  I'd put the wheels back on and was in the process of torquing the wheel nuts up to 65ft/lbs as per the SDV build manual.  A chap who claimed to know a fair bit about MX5s (races them I think) mentioned that that was too light - standard MX5 wheel nuts should be 85 ft/Lbs.

 

Looking at Rod's book, the stated range is a generous 65-87ft/lbs so we were obviously working to opposite ends of the allowed tolerance.

 

Which should we be using?  Calling Smokey the Guru!!!!

Dare I say my wheel nuts have never had a torque wrench anywhere close to them :oops: my wheels are on and off so often I just do them up till they feel tight :oops:

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