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Help... Heater Removal & Water Rails

Andy Banks

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Note: Corrections added as I learn from others

Oh great and wise ones... A little help please.

Post RAF Wittering, I have sprung a leak! The hole has appeared just after the weld on the thinner water pipe that comes from the thermo and the heater at point A on the diagram. I could repair but I suspect it will be an ongoing adventure as it's so close to the welded joint A-F-G. So... I am going aeroscreen, plus I never use the heater anyway so I want to get rid.

Engine is Dunnell Zetec 2.0l on TBs with what I believe is the Dunnell RMP1940 Cooling System.

That leaves me with questions then...

I tried to map out the pipe work as below:


What I'd like to know is:

  • Can I remove all of the red pipework and
    • Plug C, G and B?
    • Plug B and connect C to G?

    [*]Should I only remove the heater and connect D to E?

    [*]What does A to B do?

Thanks very much.

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i dont know the dunnell system but when you say waterpump in your diagram do you mean thermostat housing, and the black pipe at B does it go from the bottom of the rad to the engine?

if so then i think it makes sence to me so i would say that the pipe from G to B recirculates the water into the engine when it is cold and the thermostat is shut. so you will need this pipe. you could join D and E if you remove the heater or alternatively you could block off the connection at C replace the pipe with a hose from G to B if its leaking at A.

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Updated pic, sorry me being a numpty, yep it's the thermostat housing.

OK, that seems sound thanks.

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cool... i noticed you added the top and bottom tags too. so im more confident that what i said is right now.

just for your info if the arrows are to show water flow then i think the top and bottom ones on the rad are the other way around. Water flows into the top from the stat and the out of the bottom to the engine. like i said you need G to B.

i never had a heater so if you remove the heater and its associated lines CD and EF then thats essentially how mine is plumbed in and it works fine for me.

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This is great stuff - thanks very much. New piccy added :t-up:

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Maybe this pic is of any help also.




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Silver to zetec yes?

If so this is what you do.

Your C, a pipe mthat exits the thermostat housing to the fuel side of nthe engine, simply block it off with a large bolt and jubalee clips. It is not used without a heater.

Your G, a 16mm ID house that comes from directly under nthe main coolant pipe from the thermostat housing does indeed tee into the rad cold return. Rubber hose is fine for this, but make sure the ID is 16mm as specified. The pipe 1 from the expansion tank also goes as you have it into the rad return. Some people tee the G and pipe 1 together, but it is not the best. If the bunnel kit allows for 2 pipes into the rad return then keep it as such.

Small air bleed from top of thermostat main outlet goes to expansion tank top.

Main pipe from thermostat goes directly to rad top.

Rad may also have an air bleed if so this too goes to the expansion tank top. If only a bleed screen is fitted don't worry you only want the air out anyway.

If removing the thermostat, cooler versions are available, and some people drill a few extra hoses in the metal disc to allow more water at warm up.....but not really needed. However make sure that the ball bearing/hole is at the top when refitting as this is the air bleed and feeds that little hose.

Don't use too small internal diameter hoses as the pressure will build up too much. Use best clamps you can afford/ get and you can junk the dunno kit, i did it was useless. A section of alloy pipe for the main circuit with a 90 bend is all you really need.

Good luck, shout if you get any issues

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Brilliant, thanks fellas :t-up:

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