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Andy Banks - Chairman

Help - Battery Warning Lamp On Permenantly

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Andy Banks - Chairman

Hello :)

So my Battery Warning Light is on - all the time! Has been for a few months if I'm honest.

Checked my wiring and voltages from alternator and all seems ok. I have no probs starting and she runs just fine, stops and starts on the button. If I leave the lights on (which I did for 20mins) the battery is flat so I stick the charger back on for 30mins and off she goes no probs. I suspect if I leave the charger off over a couple of days it will also be flat as the clock and imobiliser will take a bit of juice. Its a little Odyssey 25 of some flavour.

I have a Halfrauds charger/conditioner for regular and gel batteries, it's pretty much always connected and has not let me down (yet...). So now it stays red charging and never goes to green maintenance anymore.

I've not changed anything electrical wise and I can't see anything obvious.

Do I need to dig further in the electrics, alternator, charger or do I have worn out battery?

Ignition off | clock ticking | immobiliser on

Batt 13.31v

Alternator 13.31v

Batt to Gnd - Good

Alternator to Gnd - Good

Ignition on | engine running | clock ticking

Batt 12.82v

Alternator 12.85v fluctuation but no lowe 12.83v

Batt to Gnd - Good

Alternator to Gnd - Good

Thanks.

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dstorey

When you say battery warning light is on all the time do you mean even when the ignition is off? :oops:

I'd expect 14v when the alternator was charging and engine running and everything was tip top...

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Terry Everall - WSCC Competition Secretary

Looks like the alternator is not charging

If you run engine for 15 mins and recheck batt voltage with engine off it will be less than you started with but should be more if alternator is working

That would explain why your battery light is on when running cos its not charging

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Andy Banks - Chairman

When you say battery warning light is on all the time do you mean even when the ignition is off? :oops:

Sorry, no, only when ignition is on and/or engine running.

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Andy Banks - Chairman

Looks like the alternator is not charging

If you run engine for 15 mins and recheck batt voltage with engine off it will be less than you started with but should be more if alternator is working

That would explain why your battery light is on when running cos its not charging

Right, I'll test that tomorrow and let you know.

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Andy Banks - Chairman

One more thing... I've been out and about this evening driving for 20-30mins stopping for an hour, driving for 10mins, stopping for 10, driving for 10, stopping for 10 driving for 10. All this with lights on. Last time I tried that with a faulty Alternator ground wire the battery just gave up and the car died. No such problems here so there must be some sort of charge coming off the alternator. As I undertstand it then (limited knowledge) the alternator is just not giving enough which causes the flow across the warning light making light up.

That make any sense?

So I'll try the above and I'll also try and dig out a spare alternator from somewhere.

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FILFAN

12.8 v is not good I would say the alternator is pooped. When I got my car the batt light was not connected. When plugged in it came on and never went out. I also had lower voltage charging than wen engine off.

Put on a spare alternator I had lying around (landrover defender) and all was then cured

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s2rrr

What type of alternator do you have, is it a small denso type which may have a lower output amperage, voltage shouldn't be lower though, may or may not be relevant. Is it possible that you are using more than you are generating in your short runs. To recover after an engine start alone will take a short while. The charging light being on though is normally the sign that a charge isn't reaching the battery as far as I know. Having a lower voltage at the battery with the engine running is not good. Did it function correctly prior to this warning light issue, have you altered or disturbed any of the wiring and checked all your connections and cables.

I noticed my indicators where flashing quicker than normal the other day and it was the alternator not charging the battery, a connection had worked loose on the alternator, one of the small ones :cry: and I was running off the battery alone and running it down. Thankfully the battery is in good condition and I was only using LED lights, fuel pump and ignition. When checked for charging my voltages rose from when the engine was stopped to running and my ignition warning light was working again.

Bob :(

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Bob Bobbleton

Get the battery tested at a Kwik fit type place they will do it for free and tell you if all the cells are ok

Your alternator is dragging the voltage of the battery down with the engine running

Just had exactly the same with my car, Westfield sent me a new alternator- Fixed.

If it is the alternator and you have a wee small battery, all of these charge discharge cycles won't help it's lifespan

Any reputable auto electrician who does starter motor & alternator diagnostics will be able to sort the alternator. £50 ish repair, they're easy to take off.

You could have the alternator & battery off, tested and diagnosed by lunch time...

Bob

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Andy Banks - Chairman

Thanks Gents. Current Alternator is Dunnell Enduro Spec.

I've disconnected the charger and I'm going to do the 15min test and I'll probably swap the alternator this afternoon and go for a run.

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SootySport

Your alternator is not charging properly. The fact you can start and drive it is because you are trickle charging the battery when you are parked up and the electrics are being run mostly by the battery when you are driving. The battery should measure 14+volts when car is idling and you connect a voltmeter across the + and - terminals. So just buy a new alternator or re-furbed one.

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Andy Banks - Chairman

New alternator seems the way to go. I have a spare so will swap out tomorrow.

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Blatman
Ignition off | clock ticking | immobiliser on

Batt 13.31v

Alternator 13.31v

Batt to Gnd - Good

Alternator to Gnd - Good

Check the battery too! A fully charged battery should show 12.6 volts. At 12.3 volts it's 50% goosed and needs replacing. I have no idea how a battery can hold 13.31 volts with all electricals switched off except for a clock draining a small amount of current as the chemicals inside the battery simply cannot generate this amount of voltage when the battery is "at rest"...

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Andy Banks - Chairman

Check the battery too! A fully charged battery should show 12.6 volts. At 12.3 volts it's 50% goosed and needs replacing. I have no idea how a battery can hold 13.31 volts with all electricals switched off except for a clock draining a small amount of current as the chemicals inside the battery simply cannot generate this amount of voltage when the battery is "at rest"...

Of course that does seem odd. Me being a numpty reading the multimeter properly or maybe I had the blasted charger plugged in at the time :o Oh dear...

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Andy Banks - Chairman

OK, so I still think the battery may still be goosed or the alternator is still playing up. However, I found that the lamp wire was (once I got the circuit diag from Dunnell) plugged in the wrong spade terminal on the alternator initially.

So now the light is not on but still a bit of testing to do...

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