CJspeedsport Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 For those of you who have a 1.8 zetec or for those in the know, what should it "happily" rev to? Thanks! (I realise I'm really abusing the forum with questions at the moment, hopefully one day I will be in a position to give something back!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chappers Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 7200 with standard conrod bolts, though mine had max power at around 6800 so I had a hard cut at 7200 and a soft one slightly before. Higher revs if you fit ARP bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markcoopers Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 Mine had ARP rod bolts with peak power at 7200 and limiter at 7800. To be fair 7800 was about all it wanted to rev too due to hydralic lifters begging to slow this up. Made good power up there as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJspeedsport Posted March 14, 2012 Author Share Posted March 14, 2012 Excellent. I've just ordered some ARP bolts. It makes sense to fit them now given that its going on the rolling road next week. Hopefully with an increase in fuel pressure to the injectors and ARP bolts the engine will rev wonderfully past 7000! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul D Turner Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 Excellent. I've just ordered some ARP bolts. It makes sense to fit them now given that its going on the rolling road next week. Hopefully with an increase in fuel pressure to the injectors and ARP bolts the engine will rev wonderfully past 7000! Increasing fuel pressure and fitting ARP bolts does not mean the engine will rev past 7000. If its totally standard the peak power will be at about 6800 regardless of fuel pressure and bolts, going much beyond that will simply mean the power drops off and your engine wears faster for no gain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pistol Pete Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 Increasing fuel pressure and fitting ARP bolts does not mean the engine will rev past 7000. If its totally standard the peak power will be at about 6800 regardless of fuel pressure and bolts, going much beyond that will simply mean the power drops off and your engine wears faster for no gain. Yes, but handy if you can hold third gear a little longer before a bend rather than changing up to fourth and then back down to second. Obvioulsy talking about on the track here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markcoopers Posted March 14, 2012 Share Posted March 14, 2012 The ARP bolts have to fit with their heads flush to the caps, some zetecs and I can not remember which, needed a small amount of fettling of the caps so that they fitted flush....check before simply torquing up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chappers Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 The ARP bolts have to fit with their heads flush to the caps, some zetecs and I can not remember which, needed a small amount of fettling of the caps so that they fitted flush....check before simply torquing up Had to countersink the holes on my 1800 silvertop zetec a smidge to accommodate the curve on the underside of the ARP rod bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 It's fairly usual to have to put a small radii on the bearing caps' bolt holes. The recommended way is with a pillar drill fitted with a countersink bit. Put the bearing cap in the drill, line the countersink up on the hole etc. but then DO NOT turn the drill on! Just lower the chuck so that the countersink is touching the cap and turn the chuck by hand, that way you'll only remove a small, controlled amount of material. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJspeedsport Posted March 15, 2012 Author Share Posted March 15, 2012 So this isn't quite as simple as taking the sump off and changing the bolts?! Is it an engine out job? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the stoat Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 So this isn't quite as simple as taking the sump off and changing the bolts?! Is it an engine out job? No need to take the engine out. You just whip the big end caps off with the sump off and possibly remove the oil pick up. Just make sure you mark up the caps so they go back in the correct place AND orientation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pistol Pete Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 If you do one rod end at a time there's no chance of mixing them up and you can use the untouched ones to double check they are the correct way around. You will also enjoy the strange ritual of covering them in gunk and doing them up and undoing 5 times before finally torquing them up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJspeedsport Posted March 20, 2012 Author Share Posted March 20, 2012 Did most of you fit the new bolts using a torque wrench or by measuring the stretch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the stoat Posted March 20, 2012 Share Posted March 20, 2012 Did most of you fit the new bolts using a torque wrench or by measuring the stretch? I have always used a torque wrench and not had any of the engines I have built let go yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJspeedsport Posted March 20, 2012 Author Share Posted March 20, 2012 Nothing in the instructions about putting them in and removing them five times whilst covering them with gunk...however, we followed the instructions to the letter and everything seems ok. Running as normal at the moment. Hopefully it will stay that way! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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