Electronic Ignition Help

[Jumpjet]

QUOTE

I would tend to leave it fitted as the distributor drives the oil pump

Bob, which engine are you refering to? I have a CVH, doesn't the crankshaft drive the distributer on a CVH?

[Welly Jen]

I would tend to leave it fitted as the distributor drives the oil pump

Bob, which engine are you refering to? I have a CVH, doesn't the crankshaft drive the distributer on a CVH?

Not Bob, but I'll answer anyway. Pinto's use the distributor as an upper bearing for the oil pump drive spindle.

Jenny

[7sRWild]

I have a 1995 Westfield with a CVH, it alredady has the Ford EDIS ignition system, Coil pack etc. I have just got the MJ and will be installing it over the winter months. I got the MAP version, I see a few mentions of the TPS being better. Can any body elaborate on that for me. Installation pics would be great if anyone has some.. Cheers

[cng1]

Hi Steve.

MAP and TPS are each good at different things, neither is "better" than the other.

MAP is essential for forced induction engines and has the greatest sensitivity on light throttle loads.  We recommend it for standard or lightly tuned engines.

TPS is less sensitive at the lighter loads but that works to its advantage on highly tuned engines.  Since it is reading the throttle position rather than air pressure it is not affected but pressure pulses due to the overlap on racey cams.  We recommend TPS setups for highly tuned engines.

Either system can be used on the vast majority of engines.  There are a few quick (5 minutes work), cheap (under a fiver) and simple things that can be done that can allow a MAP sensor setup to work on very highly tuned engines so there is no need to worry that you might be limiting your future options by chosing MAP rather than TPS.

I'll just take this opportunity to correct blatmans suggestion that you need to drill and tap each runner on the inlet.  That is absolutely not the case.  Whilst some people do advise doing that and teeing all the connections together doing so trades the dynamic range of the MAP signal for a smoothing of the signal.  A single feed from your carb(or runner) allows the ECU to see the full range of pressures and if additional smoothing is required then it is very easy to add a restrictor/damper to the vacuum hose.  The side-benefit of using a single feed is that you have total control over the amount of smoothing that occurs by changing the size of restrictor/damper you are using.

[Jenko]

I have a 1995 Westfield with a CVH, it alredady has the Ford EDIS ignition system, Coil pack etc. I have just got the MJ and will be installing it over the winter months. I got the MAP version, I see a few mentions of the TPS being better. Can any body elaborate on that for me. Installation pics would be great if anyone has some.. Cheers

First off.....Jumpjet....nope, on a cvh the Camshaft drives the distributor...On later cars like the xr2i / xr3i, they moved to a different injection set up...therefore a blanking plug is used and available from ford / burton.

Agree with cng1 that neither are better...but map can be a bit of a pain to set up at idle if you have anything but a standard set up...fluctuation in the manifold pressure can cause issues....that said many have done it, but having tried both I would always stick with tps.

this is the VR set up I use on my cvh

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d102/jenkosrugby/DSCF1447.jpg

[7sRWild]

Thanks guys, appreciate the input. I have a bog standard setup so hopefully wont have to many issues. Will do the MAP and keep it simple.. Cheers

[perksy]

I would tend to leave it fitted as the distributor drives the oil pump

Bob, which engine are you refering to? I have a CVH, doesn't the crankshaft drive the distributer on a CVH?

Not Bob, but I'll answer anyway. Pinto's use the distributor as an upper bearing for the oil pump drive spindle.

Jenny

*If* you really wanted to remove the Distributor, if you know somebody who has access to a lathe its possible to make up a 'collar & bearing' that does the job nicely

Have a photo somewhere    

[Bob Green]

4. Adjusting idle advance can enable you to get carb butterflies is the correct position to give good transistion from idle to main circuits. A lot of carb compliants are igntion problems !

To me, apart from the other benefits Hammy has mentioned which are spot on, is the most important part of having the MegaJolt was adjustment to progression within the carb’s.  It is easy to set DCOE’s for idle and full bore running but progression is all when it comes to a smooth transition of throttle movement.

With a distributor, the progression will never be correct unless you start drilling holes which, quite frankly, you get it wrong and you have destroyed £500 worth of sidedraughs.

In the dim and distant past, I seem to remember my MegaJolt cost me £130 all up when I fitted it to my old Pinto engined car.

The difference it made was amazing.  To give an analogy, it is the same as taking the crap gear ratio’s from a Type 9 out and fitting a better set, in particular first gear ratio, that make your car a better one to drive.

[7sRWild]

.  To give an analogy, it is the same as taking the crap gear ratio’s from a Type 9 out and fitting a better set, in particular first gear ratio, that make your car a better one to drive.

Thats my next big event..

[Bob Green]

Thats my next big event..

No................. today is!

MHR.

[Welly Jen]

Here are some pictures of the megajolt installation on Mr Toad's Pinto engine.

The trigger wheel came with a 12mm diameter hole in the centre. As luck would have it, the bolt that holds the crank pulley on is M12. I removed the crank bolt and pulley. The trigger wheel has a missing tooth. You want the missing tooth to align with the sensor at 90 degrees before the engine reaches top dead centre on the front cylinder. I arranged for the sensor to be at the 3 o'clock position looking front on at the engine. The cast crank pulley has three spokes. With the engine at top dead centre, the spoke in line with the key way in the pulley is aligned directly opposite the missing tooth on the trigger wheel.

I used the pillar drill at work and placed the trigger wheel on the crank pulley with the crank bolt through them both and lined it up as above. I then drilled a 5mm hole through the centre of the crank pulley spoke opposite the keyway and then through the trigger wheel at exactly 180 degrees to the missing tooth. A line can be scribed on the trigger wheel through the centre of the wheel to the appropriate tooth to align the wheel to the hole in the crank pulley. The trigger wheel was then drilled 5mm, the crank pulley removed and the hole opened out to 6mm. The 5mm hole in the crank pulley was tapped M6 and an M6 bolt screwed in with thread lock and a lock nut for good measure. The head of the bolt was then sawn off, making a peg to accurately align the trigger wheel.

When fitted to the car, the original crank pulley bolt washer was placed between the trigger wheel and the crank pulley. This spaces the trigger wheel off the pulley. Something like this will be needed as otherwise you could not tighten the crank bolt properly. An extra, thin 12mm washer was used under the crank bolt head and the pulley and trigger wheel fitted to the car. There was enough thread left on the bolt to hold it all securely. If not, then a longer crank bolt is needed.

See picture below:

 

The sensor is held in the bracket supplied by Trigger Wheels. I fabricated some additional brackets to hold this and bolted them to two M8 holes in the engine block in the photo below and a third hole in the front of the engine:

The bracket needs to hold the sensor within about a mm of the end of the trigger wheel teeth and not vibrate at speed, so it needs to be fairly substantial. Mine isn't very neat, but it seems to do the trick.

The cable from the sensor is screened to prevent interference.

The throttle position sensor was bought from Webcon and fits directly to the end of the carb spindle.

The megajolt electronics and the Ford EDIS unit are under scuttle and I couldn't get a picture.

Hope this helps if anyone is thinking of going Megajolt on a Ford Pinto engine. one thing that taking the pictures has told me is that I need to clean the engine bay!

Jen

[7sRWild]

Thats my next big event..

No................. today is!

MHR.

Cheers Bob, an ere's me thinkin no one cared...

[Jumpjet]

Well, have finally done it - installed megajolt on my CVH and can echo everything Hammy and Mr Green (and everybody else for that matter) have said about it. Even the bog standard map makes the car run a lot better.

I now need to tidy the engine bay up and get rid of the distributor etc. I'd prefer some sort of bolt on blanking plate rather than a blanking plug which has to be drifted in as I would like the option of replacing the distributor fairly easily if I sell the car.

Has anyone got any pics of something simlar they've done with their CVH?

Is it viable to get on old distributor, cut off the drive lugs and chop it down?

[Bob Green]

Well, have finally done it - installed megajolt on my CVH and can echo everything Hammy and Mr Green (and everybody else for that matter) have said about it. Even the bog standard map makes the car run a lot better.

Don't forget what I said about setting the progression within your DCOE’s via dialling in the required ignition advance for idle.

[predawson]

Have you checked your existing kit is properly earthed? My luminition stopped working and I assumed it was the unit until I cleaned up the earth and it worked perfectly again.