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3-Way Brake Pipe connector


DavidC

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Tonight confusing issue is the apparent abduction by Aliens of my front 3-way brake connector mounting stud!!!!

Where is it?? It's not where the manual says, and the only other stud in the engine bay is the one at the top back directly infront of the passenger, exactly where you don't want it (ie no where near the master cylinder or the brakes!!

Have westfield forgotten to weld one in on my chassis?

The rear one is there!!

Also, nice of them to put a hole in my front bulkhead panel in front of the clutch pedal that I'm not gonna use, but no hole for the steering column to pass through. Even nicer that the manual makes no mention of the steering column passing through the panel.

Another phone call tomorrow morning I think.

DC

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Also, nice of them to put a hole in my front bulkhead panel in front of the clutch pedal that I'm not gonna use, but no hole for the steering column to pass through. Even nicer that the manual makes no mention of the steering column passing through the panel

No chance that the panel needs to be rotated 90 degrees is there ??  :devil:  :devil:

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Only if I want a horizontal brake pedal about halfway up the foot well, no.

I'm not fussed about the hole in the panel, it's the missing stud for mounting the 3-way connector that p1sses me off.

I can live with missing bits from the kit, but if (as I suspect is not the case) it turns out they've missed a part of the chassis I'll be muchos unimpressidos. Even if the solution is to drill a hole all the way through the bar and shove a long bolt through it doesn't mean I have to be happy about it.

Chances are I'm being blind and the stud's there, just not where the manual says it should be. I'll keep looking

DC

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Errrr right where it should be!!!  :0

During my build, I found that it paid to stop a job for a while and start on another bit then go back to the original task. This normally shed new light ....

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for future reference...the stud in front of the passenger is the batterery earth stud.

You need to cut the hole for the steering column to suit your position..i.ie. if u use spacers or not.

other holes you need to consider before mounting panels are..

seatbelt holes in tansmission side panels

suspension bolt holes in rear bulkhead

wiring loom hole on top of trans tunnel

exhaust mounting bracket hole in outer 'aditional' panel depending if u have them and which enging you r using.

also...did you read the thread about the alloy pannels and fitting them when there is *no* ,stress on the chassis....i.e. laid flat, not supported at either end.

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Reason for the confusion is that the manual shows it being at the bottom of one of the upright chassis members, facing the back of the car, so I was hunting around the engine bay between the master cylinder, and where the manual shows it to be, and just got confused :durr:

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Well actually, looking closely the manual does show the 3 way connector in it's true position, but it's not the clearest diagram ever and it could be seen as sitting somewhere else, which is what I thought it said.

Anyhoo, front brake lines are on, and the one from the master cylinder to the brake switch T-piece is on too. Gonna do the big front-to-rear one tonight.

Just looking as the best way of routing it...

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Did you use the chassis mounting brackets for the front brake lines as shown in the manual? I did and am now getting worried becaue my braided hose is only about 10mm from the spring (and can be 'persuaded' into it quite easily! :( )

Going to try and angle the brackets back a bit at the w/e...

- Dan.

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We angled the chassis brackets for the front aeroquip mounts.  No problem, hoses well clear of springs.

Just one thing to watch for in the long term - the aeroquip hoses will do a fine job of rubbing through the powder coating on the top wishbone. Some protection on the wishbone from the outset would have been a fine idea.

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Ah, I'll make a note of that. I'm fitting the front suspension today while I wait for the missing GRP footrest panel to arrive. I can't really fit the front-to-rear brake line down the inside of the tunnel until that's in, so I've gotta be getting on with other bits.

Only 10 days until I go back to work, and next Thursday night (thru to Friday lunch time) is gonna be spent in Bham helping the uni guys finish off their car or the launch!!!!

I'm meeting some resistance from some of the wishbone bolts. I take it that it's normal to have to hit them really hard with a mallet/hammer?

DC

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Some protection on the wishbone from the outset would have been a fine idea.

Ah, I'll make a note of that.

Er, or put some short of sheath over the braid, like what you saw on my car just last week..............

I'm meeting some resistance from some of the wishbone bolts. I take it that it's normal to have to hit them really hard with a mallet/hammer?

It's more usual to use a bit of copperslip, in conjunction with removing some of the powder coat from the clevis hole. They all do that sir.............

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Copper slip was used, and all front wishbones are now on, as are the front AVOs...

Hmm, when I read that last post (having only just woken up) I read it as protection for the brake hose anyway, not wishbone. Strange that.

Now I'm gonna go and get a M18x15mm tap (track rods don't wanna go down those threads), some more p-clips and maybe an angle grinder, the diff casing need 1mm shaved off a corner to fit in, and I wanna fit it before forming the rear brake lines cos it's the 7.5" diff so it's a bit tight for space.

Hopefully I can have it sitting on wheels in the drive by the end of the weekend, all brake lines in, loom attached (vaguely, I hate all forms of car electrics) and can start pushing it around :D:d:D

DC

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Quote  

Some protection on the wishbone from the outset would have been a fine idea.  

Quote  

Ah, I'll make a note of that.  

Some nylon overbraiding comes in the sva finishing kit.... cant see that rubbing through powder coating.....although i guess if you are a crome finish person you would take em off.

I left mine on, but havent noticed any interference issues in any case

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