Jump to content

Fuel Pipe (whoops)


DMS

Recommended Posts

Over the weekend I was trying to bend a fuel pipe to give a 90 degree bend for when it exits the transmission tunnel and enters the engine bay.  Being steel bending it was awful even with a tool.  The 90 degree bend has not gone according to plan and I'm concerned that (a) the pipe has flattened too much and (b) that I've weakened it.  Hence, I feel I should get a new pipe which is really irritating as the rest of it looks pretty tidy.

Does anyone have any tips as to what type of pipe to go for and where from to make it easy than the steel one to bend?  This is for a 'blade.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've just replaced the fuel pipes on my car (injected XE). I used 'microbore' central heating pipe. This is copper, is about 8mm (5/16") diameter, and comes in big cheap 10m rolls from your local B&Q.

I used this stuff when I first built the car in 1997, and have only replaced it cos I made a complete pig's ear of the original installation.    ???

It's easy to bend - the minimum radius before it collapses/flattens is ~25mm, and the ends can be flared in situ (ie once it's bent, cut to length and clipped in place) using one of those cheap home brake pipe flaring tools.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks, Paul.  My only question on this would be whether it is good enough to get through SVA.  I haven't got my manual with me but seem to recall something about the fuel pipe needing to satisfy some standard or other.  Any ideas?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't know anything about SVA, having registered mine just before that crappy legislation came into effect, but I can't imagine that they can object to copper pipe. But then again having seen some of the stuff that the fools object to, I wouldn't be surprised if they insist on you having pipes made from pure unobtanium  :0

There is definitely a spec for flexible fuel pipe though. If you are buying this, then make sure it is right for the job. And, note that if you are using fuel injection, the pipe should be suitable for high pressure, as well as being petrol resistant and reinforced.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi DMS,

I SVA'ed a blade about a month ago using microbore heating pipe. To be honest, with the panelled underside and all the wiring exiting the tunnel mouth the SVA inspector probably wont notice!

Exactly the same experience as you, try and put a 90degree bend in the steel stuff and it just collapses... A huge roll of the 10mm stuff is about 15quid, so you can practice lots ;)

The fuel pressure is relatively low compared to an injected car, so I wasnt worried about this too much.

Cheers,

Al

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I too 'plumbed' my car with 8mm microbore and had no problem with the SVA. Even spent time discussing it with the inspector who had no concerns over its use on a fuel injected engine.

The fuel rail is made of 15mm domestic plumbing parts with an 8mm tee to each injector. (Obviously it's all done with solder fittings rather than compression.) When I took it to Emerald for the mapping session Dave Walker raised an eyebrow but didn't have any actual complaint. Probably because he started the DIY fuel injection idea with an article in CCC about 6 years ago......

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I also used microbore with no problems at SVA (2 years ago).

However, I have heard copper pipe can get a little brittle as it hardens with age and vibration and for this reason copper nickel tube is reckoned to be better.

This might be more difficult to bend though!

Having said that, microbore lasts for decades in a central heating system.

Kevin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Microbore it is, then.  Fortunately that is one of the few things I seem to be able to source here in Jersey although I am wondering how my luck will be at getting 10mm p-clips.  I was also trying to get hold of some imperial bolts earlier in the week and was advised locally that I'd have to get them made to order!

Thanks for your help.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use a chap trading as Wye Valley Supplies for all nuts, bolts, clips, rivets etc. Mostly they are stainless and he does mail order. Far cheaper than some other places that I have seen. Usually at most of the kit car shows. I'll dig his number out when i get a chance. Failing that, Vehicle Wiring Products in Nottingham sell similar items and do mail order.

Vehicle Wiring Products

John

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Maplin electronics are a good source of P-clips, and their mail order service is good if you haven't got any shops local.

Kevin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please review our Terms of Use, Guidelines and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.