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Changing rear dampers


furtive

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Just a small point I forgot if you where to galvanise a c******m Chassis the galvaniser's woulg give you it back in a bin bag as the chassis is brassed together not welded and the melting point of the bronse filler is about the same as the dip tank

Brassing is an old fashion out of date method say no more

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how about electroplate galvanising rather than hot dip ?

thinner = lighter.

Also surely there are types of stainless than could be load bearing like rod ends etc ?

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The cost is sooooooo expensive and it still work hardens in time the rod ends wear out before going britle but a chassis would brake up at work I have seen a veg shaker deck 1.5m by 2.0m looking more like a shatered glass panel then stainless sheet and its neer imposiable to reweld or repair the same goes for stainless pressure vessels towards the end of there life they crack and split and the coded welders hate the job as the stress just opens the split as it warms during welding and it becomes a chase that stress line.

Paul

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On the subject of the rear wishbones going rusty, I too was VERY surprised at the extent of the rusting that had occurred on my rear wishbones after 5 years.

They were powder coated and what appears to happen is once a small hole has appeared courtesy of a stone or other, the water gets in and works its way along the complete section.  The problem seems to be that the powder coating does not bond well enough to the metal.

I have therefore gone back to base metal, rust treated and then Hammerite primered followed by Hammerite Satin Black which blends well the the finish of the powder coating.

Time will tell if this is better than the powder coating.

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