whosthedaddy Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 3rd time mine's been back, still spikes at 6300, still chasing what warranty i have???, v8 configuration on mine, not too happy with buying one of the first sold by westfield and having continued problems, with no support or anwsers.... i suppose thats the westfield experience? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamnreeves Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 Anyone else regretting not going the analogue route! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Eastwood (Gadgetman) - Club Chairman Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 No, but then I knew what I was buying; funny how without the luxury of it being a factory fit option with custome leads, it all seemed so much easier! (Though then again, I did expect to be doing the R&D to fit it to a Westfield myself). Such a shame for one reason or another, such a gap between expectation & reality appeared when Westfield started supplying the system. It's not that it's difficult to install/configure, but "out of the box" it's certainly not plug & play either. I guess WF just underestimated what they would need to add to the package to bridge the gap between a highly configurable "open" system and an off the shelf fit and forget set up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s2k7 Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 Anyone else regretting not going the analogue route! Yep, I am!! Analogue is much simplier, looks better and authentic. Race Technology forum & support is bullcrap! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Seabrook Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 I have found the forum a little lacking but cant fault email and on the phone handling. I did get my dash2 and DL1 straight from them though. Its be great and would do it again if I had to. On the aesthetics front its all down to taste and I do prefer the look of gauges to a digi dash. But on saying that the digi dash is the muts for the sprint car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted July 23, 2009 Author Share Posted July 23, 2009 I'm extremely happy with the dash2. I guess the only problem is that it's sold as a plug and play unit, when in reality it's far from it. To get accurate readings you have to write your own configuration file, but hey, most people here have built their own cars, so probably enjoy the challenge. I know I certainly did, and found it very rewarding having a Dash2 that was extremely accurate and working. I think Westfield should probably do away with their own calibration file to force people to learn about the unit. It's no different from selling an ECU with a base map in. It will work, but in order for it to work the best it can, it's got to be altered, and that means understanding what you are adjusting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamnreeves Posted July 23, 2009 Share Posted July 23, 2009 I do not mind getting my hands dirty my issue at the moment is that the formulae do not work because when the voltage varies as it does on cars then the resistance changes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s2k7 Posted July 23, 2009 Share Posted July 23, 2009 I do not mind getting my hands dirty my issue at the moment is that the formulae do not work because when the voltage varies as it does on cars then the resistance changes! Yep! mine too. Even using the regulated 5Volts reference, the resistance changes. Support crap & unit crap! Maybe my unit made in friday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamnreeves Posted July 23, 2009 Share Posted July 23, 2009 I'm extremely happy with the dash2. I guess the only problem is that it's sold as a plug and play unit, when in reality it's far from it. To get accurate readings you have to write your own configuration file, but hey, most people here have built their own cars, so probably enjoy the challenge. I know I certainly did, and found it very rewarding having a Dash2 that was extremely accurate and working. I think Westfield should probably do away with their own calibration file to force people to learn about the unit. It's no different from selling an ECU with a base map in. It will work, but in order for it to work the best it can, it's got to be altered, and that means understanding what you are adjusting. Frosty. I used your spreadsheet and setup all my formulae from scratch. I can see the senders are workng and calibrated fine for the initial values. I have checked with other sensors and probes and they are within acceptable tolerances but when the car is running and the voltage varying which I can log in my ECU then the sensors varies. The sensors for my ECU are dead on because the ECU uses a regulated voltage. I am womdering if the dash2 does not use a regulated voltage for its sensors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s2k7 Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 I think it needs a better filtering. The blue light is like a flashlight made in China. I can't see...it's so dim. Yep, I'm in #8 the brightest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamnreeves Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 Hate to sound doom and gloom. I really like the unit as far as the configuration is concerned I only really have one ciritism which I would like to air as its quite important. The rev gauge is from 0 - 8000 which kind of looks silly for a V8 which red lines at 8000. It would be far better if I could configure this to 0 - 6200 but you have to have 9 sites which you can configure but has to be whole numbers in 1000s!, i.e. 0,1000,2000,3000,4000,5000,6000,7000,8000. With this you only really suitable for engines that rev close to 8000 and bikes that go higher, as you can do 0,2000,4000,6000,8000,10000,12000,14000, 16000 for example. I like the look of the unit but if it cannot read sensors with some accuracy then.... For example I have calibrated my fuel sensor readings so that it reads the number of litres in the tank. With the engine off, it reads 20 litres. I measured into the tank precisely 20litres so happy with that. As soon as I start the car this starts reading 23 litres. The oil pressure reading is 0 with engine off but when the engine is running It flutuates between 39-41PSI, A mechanical guage reads 43PSI and does not wander. If I connect my water sensor to the ECU it reads accurately. When I connect the same sensor to the dash it gives a different reading and the accuracy seems to be worse at the bottom end of the range. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted July 24, 2009 Author Share Posted July 24, 2009 I like the look of the unit but if it cannot read sensors with some accuracy then.... For example I have calibrated my fuel sensor readings so that it reads the number of litres in the tank. With the engine off, it reads 20 litres. I measured into the tank precisely 20litres so happy with that. As soon as I start the car this starts reading 23 litres. The oil pressure reading is 0 with engine off but when the engine is running It flutuates between 39-41PSI, A mechanical guage reads 43PSI and does not wander. If I connect my water sensor to the ECU it reads accurately. When I connect the same sensor to the dash it gives a different reading and the accuracy seems to be worse at the bottom end of the range. It sounds like you have an earth problem. The resistance should never change at all on the sensors, no matter what happens with other electrics. The voltage should remain a constant 5v too as the sensors run from the DHAS2's own voltage regulator. If you see your sensor readings vary on the DASH2 when you vary the load on the battery (or switch the engine on) then your earthing is giving you problems. Can you do a simple test for me? Warm the car up to normal running temperature, and then switch the engine off. Now turn the electrics (but not the engine) on, and switch the head lights on and off. When you switch the lights on and off, do the sensor readings change? You will need to disable filtering etc ideally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamnreeves Posted July 24, 2009 Share Posted July 24, 2009 so the dash2 does have an inbuilt voltage regulator. You might have a point with the Earth. When I installed my ECU the instructions did specifically mention Earth problems and recommended that any sender earths be wired to the same Earth as the ECU. With this I tied them all to one point on the chassis. I had installed the dash2 by this time and no recommendations were made to earthing directly to the chassis so I connected to a loom earth as per the Westfield instructions. I tried what you said and the only sender that is affected by turning on the lights is the fuel sensor it changes from 20.5 to 21litres. Strange thing switching anything else on does not affect the reading! I'll think I will earth the dash2 to the chassis same point as the sensors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamnreeves Posted July 26, 2009 Share Posted July 26, 2009 Frosty. I took my dash off today and checked the earth to the unit I read 0.000ohms resistance between the unit earth and chassis. Still I decided to install a dedicated earth which I have installed as close to the unit as possible and I have bolted this to the chassis. Checked the earth and still 0.000ohm. This has made no difference to the accuracy of the fuel gauge. BTW I installed the new speedo sensor on the front wheel today. I had some hand written instructions from Westfield on how to wire it. I followed these and the speedo transducer did not work! I looked at your instructions and they were slightly different to the Westfield instructions, and they worked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adamnreeves Posted August 5, 2009 Share Posted August 5, 2009 In line with latest IVA requirements I have earthed my fuel tank. I thought I'd check the fuel guage test again. Ignition on it reads 18.9litres, headlamps on it reads 20 so problem still there. Engine running it shows 28! so got worse. I noticed however when I took of my fuel cap that some petrol was present in the recess of the filler, erm tank less than half full. Could it be that my fuel level is below the return fuel line union and possibly when this happens fuel is squirted everywhere and effects the reading? When car is idling I am running about 2bar pressure, the fuel pump is 5bar so quite a bit of fuel will be circulating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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