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Martin Keene

Trillogy / Savage Hazard Switch Wiring Guide

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adamnreeves

Not ready to make posts yet but there's an addedum already! Need to insert another diode in line from dash illumination feed otherwise the entire dash will flash when using the hazzards, now this might look cool but I suspect SVA person would not be impressed!

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Martin Keene

:cool:

and somehow very...

:D

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adamnreeves

I have been playing with looms all weekend! See photo this is a generic switch loom which will show the switch LED dimly when using sidelights and will glow much brighter when whatever is being controlled is switched on. To use this with LH and RH hazzard just simply add two parallel wires to the end of the device being swithched, each of these wires to have P600A diodes in line with the band facing the westfield loom to prevent current feedback from indicators.

Img_2674.jpg

click here for highres

covered in heat shrink

Img_2675.jpg

click here for highres

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adamnreeves

Just a quick note to say that I have all my switches connected up now and success they all work as anticipated, including the  hazard switch, i.e it flashes. Also to add that this works with the Westfield electronic cancelling indicators.

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Tigger

Adam,

First of all, well done for working this out, this is exactly what I was after as I've just bought a set of these switches.

Now for the questions: In the loom pictures above, call me thick but it looks like the diodes have the bands facing the live feed end - is this right? Reason I ask is because you say they have to face the westfield loom to prevent current feedback???

Secondly, I would like to put together a wiring diagram similar to the ones I did for the Durite Switches and wondered if you would mind me using your photo's above.

Credit will be given of course!

Cheers

Tiggs

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adamnreeves

Adam,

First of all, well done for working this out, this is exactly what I was after as I've just bought a set of these switches.

Now for the questions: In the loom pictures above, call me thick but it looks like the diodes have the bands facing the live feed end - is this right? Reason I ask is because you say they have to face the westfield loom to prevent current feedback???

Secondly, I would like to put together a wiring diagram similar to the ones I did for the Durite Switches and wondered if you would mind me using your photo's above.

Credit will be given of course!

Cheers

Tiggs

Live feed to goes to pin 1 on the switch and this switches to pin 2. If you imagine the bands as closed gates, i.e. will not allow current to flow from that end but current can flow from the other end and then thru the gate then it can be understood. The resistor is there to reduce the voltage supply to the LEDs when in off mode and sidelights on. The wiring looks silly so that it fits all the contacts without stressing the cable. HTH. Sure you can use the picures no problem. Below I have placed a link to the relevant part of my build site and you can get higer res photos to see better.

build diary entry here Also has an embarassing video showing the function of the switches, you wouldn't believe I left the midlands about 20years ago!

Oh and note I made some design changes regarding the layout of the cable and also decided against using crimp and went to soldering for flexibility and reliability.

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Tigger

Ahhh, it's ok, just me being a numptie, that explains it perfectly -  cheers Adam.

See you at Stoneleigh

Tiggs

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Martin Keene
Secondly, I would like to put together a wiring diagram similar to the ones I did for the Durite Switches and wondered if you would mind me using your photo's above.

Might be worth doing a wiring diagram for wiring it up the normal way for non-sva purposes as well mate...

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Tigger
Secondly, I would like to put together a wiring diagram similar to the ones I did for the Durite Switches and wondered if you would mind me using your photo's above.

Might be worth doing a wiring diagram for wiring it up the normal way for non-sva purposes as well mate...

Yeah I could do that too, good idea Martin :D

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daveac

I'm working on a dash which just has simple toggle switches but I need them all to match.  My somewhat crude solution to the hazard switch was to tape the original switch behind the dash in the on position then simply splice a feed for the new toggle switch in to one of the wires to the original switch.  Which feed would be the best target - flasher coil feed, 12V permanent or 12V ignition?

Better yet, can anyone think of a more elegant solution?!

TIA

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Martin Keene
That idea doesn't work, before I stumbled across the wiring solution for the trillogy, I tried doing the same thing. But the hazard switch works as a sort of switch box/relay for the whole indicator circuit. When it is switched off it feeds and ignition live to the flasher unit and isolates the permenant live. Something like that, basically even when the switch is off, there is still a current thorugh it.

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Luapno

I am in the process of changing my dash over and have the following questions :-

1) Do I need a relay for the headlights side / dip / main. Can anyone let me have a wiring diagram showing how the 3 new switches are wired. As I an confused as to how it works, particularly the main beam.

2) Is it possible to wire the main beam switch to work independantly of the other switches, ie can I use it as a flasher when the dipped beam is off.

Sorry if they seem simple questions, don't want to break anything.

:durr:

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Ben (bunje)

anyone got the pictures for this thread so i can see what im doing

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Peter (Monty)

With this setup, the flasher relay is fed by the switched live while hazard switch is off, and permanent live while hazard switch is on.

Is there any reason not to connect the flasher unit to permanent live all the time? Will it consume power even though the output is not connected (if hazard and turn signal switches are off)?

Edit: just had a look at the old wiring schematic guide and it describes the light green / pink wire to the flasher relay as permanent live

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